Omega Seamaster 60 ref. 166.062 - "Seamaster" font

[DragontearS]

Hi Guys, Need some help here..
I have a Seamaster "Big Crown" that was owned by my Dad who bought it in 60's...
The watch is working but is not in good shape as it stayed in a drawer for 20 years maybe.. so, some oxydation, a lot of scratches on the crystal.. but I brought it to a watchmaker to do a service.. and that will be easy...
Now.. I had some research about the model and I found a lot of stuff and a lof of pictures...

On the Internet many BigCrown don't report the "60" under Seamaster in the lower part of the dial, mine has it... and that's fine.. there are many that have and many that don't have that..
than From my research the bezel color shall be matching the dial color so in this case it shall be blue while mine seems black.. but as I said at the moment is doing a service so I cannot verify that. Anyway I knwo that bezel was very delicate in this model and I think that maybe has been replaced during years and I looked for one and I found a brand new for 800€ so I can live with the black one (even if this detail hurts my nervous system)..
Now I come to the strange thing...

The font of the Seamaster writing..
In my Seamaster the font it is similar to 50s/60s seamasters like the white one in the picture..

in the end I add a picture from a seamaster 60 found online..



My Dad was used to order things before they came out, so is it possible that my dial is a early version and maybe still have the old font?
Could you guys help me in understanding?

Edited: Aug 26, 2024

 

[DrSpock]

At least it should say T- Swiss Made -T indicating the Tritium lume on the dial, the 60 looks a bit odd too.

 

[DrSpock]

Here’s one from an old catalog

 

[DrSpock]

and that’s mine (which I really like)

 

[JwRosenthal]

Although the pic is hard to see, the lack of lume on the hands and no visible pips on the dial, and the funky “Seamaster” font tells me this was redialed (repainted) long ago. It was fairly SOP if someone brought a water damaged watch in for service- so your dad may have thought nothing of it. He got his watch back and the damaged dial was “repaired”.

 

[Davidt]

JwRosenthal

Although the pic is hard to see, the lack of lume on the hands and no visible pips on the dial, and the funky “Seamaster” font tells me this was redialed (repainted) long ago. It was fairly SOP if someone brought a water damaged watch in for service- so your dad may have thought nothing of it. He got his watch back and the damaged dial was “repaired”.

Agree. It looks like it was redialed at some point and the redialer likely used the only font they had available.

 

[DragontearS]

JwRosenthal

Although the pic is hard to see, the lack of lume on the hands and no visible pips on the dial, and the funky “Seamaster” font tells me this was redialed (repainted) long ago. It was fairly SOP if someone brought a water damaged watch in for service- so your dad may have thought nothing of it. He got his watch back and the damaged dial was “repaired”.

Yes, as far as I remember It had a seawater incident and got serviced in 80s, then I don't know..
The only conclusion is that it has been replaced when serviced because I verified better with the tremendous pictures they took in the shop and the dial has no Ts near swiss made.. and no tritium on the dial ( I asked to the shop to verify with UV light)..
Then with more attention I've seen in your pictures guys that the external light grey "chesslike" graphics is simmetrical respect to the 3,6, 9 and 12 while in mine is just keeping the alternation... To verify that you can see that in your pics under "SS" and "MA" of the "T SWISS | MADE T" writing there is exact the same grapics (the grey part is on the lower part on both), while on mine is opposite ("SS" has the grey on le lower part while is on the upper part below "MA").


Doh. I think I need to find a replacement Dial....
I've found one in good conditions but is 690€ on ebay..
further I found a Blue Bezel.. it's incredibly expensive: 800€ ( jeez!! is a damn bakelite rim!! )

 

[DragontearS]

DrSpock

and that’s mine (which I really like)

it's Awesome! and in Incredible Conditions!

 

[JwRosenthal]

Yeah, parts for these aren’t cheap- the bezels are rare as hell. If yours is crack free then just enjoy it. Make sure if you take it in to any watchmaker for service that they DO NOT put the bezel in an ultrasonic for cleaning (in fact, don’t get the bezel anywhere near water). The Bakelite insert in the metal bezel is back-painted and then glued in. An ultrasonic will do its job and deep clean that paint rand adhesive right off the bezel. And as far as the water- if the adhesive has delaminated at all (which most have dried up and is barely hanging on), water can get under the gaps in the adhesive and cause delamination and visible spots. If you look at alot of old Bakelite bezels you will see this.
Also be sure that whomever does the service knows NOT to polish or rebrush the case at all. Just a soapy scrub (or ultrasonic on the midcase and back only) to clean them. Polishing the crystal is fine if it’s not badly crazed or cracked at all. Not all watchmakers follow the same SOP so stating your do’s and don’ts up front and in writing will clarify anything prior to a possibly regretful situation. You won’t offend them, they are professionals and should take your wish list seriously or tell you otherwise.

 

[Dan S]

Before doing anything else, maybe you can post some better photos.

 

[DragontearS]

JwRosenthal

Yeah, parts for these aren’t cheap- the bezels are rare as hell. If yours is crack free then just enjoy it. Make sure if you take it in to any watchmaker for service that they DO NOT put the bezel in an ultrasonic for cleaning (in fact, don’t get the bezel anywhere near water). The Bakelite insert in the metal bezel is back-painted and then glued in. An ultrasonic will do its job and deep clean that paint rand adhesive right off the bezel. And as far as the water- if the adhesive has delaminated at all (which most have dried up and is barely hanging on), water can get under the gaps in the adhesive and cause delamination and visible spots. If you look at alot of old Bakelite bezels you will see this.
Also be sure that whomever does the service knows NOT to polish or rebrush the case at all. Just a soapy scrub (or ultrasonic on the midcase and back only) to clean them. Polishing the crystal is fine if it’s not badly crazed or cracked at all. Not all watchmakers follow the same SOP so stating your do’s and don’ts up front and in writing will clarify anything prior to a possibly regretful situation. You won’t offend them, they are professionals and should take your wish list seriously or tell you otherwise.

This is an incredibly important bunch of tips! Thank You so much... for my understanding: why shall they not to polish or rebrush the case?

 

[DragontearS]

Dan S

Before doing anything else, maybe you can post some better photos.

You're right but at the moment the whatch is the shop waiting to be collected for a service. The ones I have are the ones my wife could take for me. She works there in the area and I will try to ask if she could take more pics (even if I already know what will be the reply).. In the meantime I attach the others she sent, but I don't think they will satisfy you guys..

 

[Dan S]

As noted above, in those photos the printing looks very poor, so my gut feeling is that the dial is repainted. I just hate to draw conclusions based on blurry poorly-lit photos with the hands blocking some text.

 

[DragontearS]

Dan S

As noted above, in those photos the printing looks very poor, so my gut feeling is that the dial is repainted. I just hate to draw conclusions based on blurry poorly-lit photos with the hands blocking some text.

Yeah, my Apologies about that.. I will do more detailed photos.. but all the info you're giving to me will not drastically condition my decision.. I mean I don't have to buy it as I already own this watch.. and there is no further detail that will make this dial original so, even if I promise I will take more photos, I can only appreciate the help you guys are giving to me.

Talking about the dial: online I found more than a few watches reporting "dial: aftermarket" for example the following sold yesterday on catawiki (https://www.catawiki.com/en/l/87343883-omega-seamaster-166-062-men-1960-1969).


This looks very well made. Do you guys know where to find an aftermarket dial with this level of quality? I mean until I can find an original one I can replace the one that is actually installed that has oxydation startings and I really don't like it. Do you have any resource I can check?

Edited: Aug 27, 2024

 

[Dan S]

DragontearS

Do you guys know where to find an aftermarket dial with this level of quality?

I suggest you search for yourself in the usual places or send PMs to people who might know (not me!).

This topic comes up fairly often in the context of other Omega divers (SM120, SM300), but usually people are trying to identify the fakes in order to avoid them. The forum does not allow discuss of counterfeits. I don't know if this question technically falls into that category, but I don't think we want to publicly advertise or promote the sale of fake Omega dials.

 

[DragontearS]

Dan S

I suggest you search for yourself in the usual places or send PMs to people who might know.

This topic comes up a lot in the context of other Omega divers (SM120, SM300), but usually people are trying to identify the fakes in order to avoid them. The forum does not allow discuss of counterfeits. I don't know if this question technically falls into that category, but I don't think we want to advertise or promote the sale of fake Omega dials.

But does this rule should apply in case Omega does not sell the parts anymore how can someone fix a vintage watch?
I mean a watch restored with a non original part is better than a vintage watch not restored and simply left to its destiny.
Let's suppose you have in your hands the first Omega ever done.. let's say SN 0000001. With broken crystal and no spare crystals are left for that model..
Do you leave it or you try to find a replacement as near as possible to the original?
Anyway I respect forum rules, and I understand why they decided to put this rule so I will not ask this again.
Thank you for giving me a push in the right direction. 👍

 

[KaiseRRuby]

Cool watch, i have the same. I replaced the dial with a NOS one, found on eBay. The same dial, the old damaged one also missed the '60' on the dial. As you already found out, thats common. Some do have 60, some dont. I bought the dial for 450 euro. My watchmaker also replaced the gasket, plexy, rotorlager and rotoraxle. All of that was available from Omega. My bezel is also really worn. But i like that.

 

[Dan S]

DragontearS

But does this rule should apply in case Omega does not sell the parts anymore how can someone fix a vintage watch?
I mean a watch restored with a non original part is better than a vintage watch not restored and simply left to its destiny.
Let's suppose you have in your hands the first Omega ever done.. let's say SN 0000001. With broken crystal and no spare crystals are left for that model..
Do you leave it or you try to find a replacement as near as possible to the original?
Anyway I respect forum rules, and I understand why they decided to put this rule so I will not ask this again.
Thank you for giving me a push in the right direction. 👍

You are mixing apples and oranges. A part for repair (like a generic crystal) is one thing, a fake dial that says "OMEGA" is an illegal counterfeit. Similarly, a generic Uncle Seiko flatlink bracelet is fine, but if they put an Omega logo on it, that would be a counterfeit/fake.

 

[Davidt]

Agree. A generic crystal without an etched Omega logo in the middle is completely different to a fake dial that is suggesting it’s something it isn’t.
Personally I’d keep the redial rather than replacing it with a fake. At least the redial has history and is the dial your dad looked at for years.

 

[DragontearS]

Dan S

You are mixing apples and oranges. A part for repair (like a generic crystal) is one thing, a fake dial that says "OMEGA" is an illegal counterfeit. Similarly, a generic Uncle Seiko flatlink bracelet is fine, but if they put an Omega logo on it, that would be a counterfeit/fake.

You are absolutely right. As I said thank you.