Omega Seamaster 300 165.024 on an action today!

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Hi Forums Friends!

I arrived from London a few days ago, and now looking at an auction in UK (again…🤦)!
This time its not a Speedy, but a Seamaster 300, with the reference nr 165.024.
Serial nr places it 1966/67-isch.

The auction house was very helpful with extra pictures and answering my questions.
No owners/service history, but servicemarks on the inside of the caseback.

I liked the lume plots, and they kind of match to the lume of the hands.
Sword hands and spear second hand (not sure if they are correct for the year?).
The bezel looks nice, and the fonts look correct for the ref/year.
The case and caseback looked ok, it must have had some previous polishing, but in a good condition.
The crystal has tons of scratches, but the Omega logo is visible, and it also looks like it was replaced?
The crown must be a service/replacement.
The movement was in a serious need for a service...
And the bracelet that looks tired, was a 1506 (stampede 4/66) with nr 16 end links.

The auction had a starting bid of 2000 £ (plus 30% premium), which was of course to low…
Opening bids rushed to 5000 £, and then the hammer fell on 5500 £.
So that should be 7150 £/8155 €/8880 USD.

A bit away from my budget, but always exciting and fun to follow!

Maybe some happy member here on the Forum got the watch??😀

There is not much info (No Mr Speedmaster101..🙁) on the web, so please do share info where I can find this?
And also comment on the watch, and how I assessed it..?

Cheers


235101-10.jpg 235101-2.jpg 235101-0.jpg 235101-3.jpg 235101-5.jpg 235101-9.jpg 235101-6.jpg
 
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I was the underbidder on this one. I really wanted it but couldn’t justify £6k + 30%.
Hopefully someone here got it.
 
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I was the underbidder on this one. I really wanted it but couldn’t justify £6k + 30%.
Hopefully someone here got it.
Well well....😉

So you liked the watch also?
What did you think about the hands? Not sure about them....
 
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I think it will look much better in the flesh than in those photos. I was tempted to bid, but guessed it would go too high for me.
 
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Well well....😉

So you liked the watch also?
What did you think about the hands? Not sure about them....

You think they’re relumed or replaced?

I think it was an original, honest watch and as @Dash1 says, I think it would look better in hand. The only concern for me was the case which was good but wasn’t as sharp as I would’ve liked. Nevertheless, I put in what I thought was a strong bid; £5k plus 30% fees.
I was surprised that the bidding was in £500 increments as that seemed too chunky at that price but I wouldn’t have gone above 5k anyway.

Back to the drawing board as I’ve decided I need one of these lyre lug 300’s now!
 
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You think they’re relumed or replaced?

I think it was an original, honest watch and as @Dash1 says, I think it would look better in hand. The only concern for me was the case which was good but wasn’t as sharp as I would’ve liked. Nevertheless, I put in what I thought was a strong bid; £5k plus 30% fees.
I was surprised that the bidding was in £500 increments as that seemed too chunky at that price but I wouldn’t have gone above 5k anyway.

Back to the drawing board as I’ve decided I need one of these lyre lug 300’s now!

Im not sure about anything 100 % regarding this ref?
They did match perfectly with the lume plots!
@Dash1 might help here??

And you had the same budget that I was planing on...😀??
And why do they go 500 £ per bid on that level??

Anywhooo - Easter is round the corner, so have a good one!
 
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Im not sure about anything 100 % regarding this ref?
They did match perfectly with the lume plots!
@Dash1 might help here??

And you had the same budget that I was planing on...😀??
And why do they go 500 £ per bid on that level??

Anywhooo - Easter is round the corner, so have a good one!
My guess is that the hand lume is original, but hard to be 100% with the photos.
 
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I personally would never buy without UV-light test.
you'll never be buying at auction remotely then. 99% of the time you can't even get auction houses to take a caseback off.
 
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I personally would never buy without UV-light test.

Some of the auction house do help with UV-light pictures...
Bust most of them don't have a clue when you ask about this!

And I myself seldom can view in person on the watches I am looking at (and sometimes buying...😉)!
 
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I wouldn’t let lack of a UV test put me off. You’re limiting your potential market so much by having that as a requirement.
I prefer to buy as found from original owners or auctions and although there’s an element of risk/gambling, if you’re careful and do your research, you’ll be up more than you’re down.
 
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you'll never be buying at auction remotely then.
YES 😀

And for the shown example: I doubt the colours of the hands. ( As judged by these photos)
 
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Price seemed fair. Caveat I haven't been looking for a SM 300/165.024 in recent years, haven't followed that market/pricing.

Liked this post - Thanks @hansaboy .. you're really on the hunt 😉

Well from one view, the first pic would seem to warrant a pass. Don't like the green hue in the lume. However, pics 2 3 4 all look good to me. So I agree with @Dash1 this'll look good on someone's chain haha. And I like the 'honest' view in those pics, and can appreciate or live with the crystal crazing as that doesn't seem an issue - assume it will need a service anyway. Nothing looks terrible in the movement pic as well. Wasn't someone offering a kidney for a #16/1506. Anyway if bracelet / end link is 1039/16, that alone could be around 2-3k. so the price looked quite ok.
 
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Price seemed fair. Caveat I haven't been looking for a SM 300/165.024 in recent years, haven't followed that market/pricing.

Liked this post - Thanks @hansaboy .. you're really on the hunt 😉

Well from one view, the first pic would seem to warrant a pass. Don't like the green hue in the lume. However, pics 2 3 4 all look good to me. So I agree with @Dash1 this'll look good on someone's chain haha. And I like the 'honest' view in those pics, and can appreciate or live with the crystal crazing as that doesn't seem an issue - assume it will need a service anyway. Nothing looks terrible in the movement pic as well. Wasn't someone offering a kidney for a #16/1506. Anyway if bracelet / end link is 1039/16, that alone could be around 2-3k. so the price looked quite ok.
How much does a 1506/16 bracelet cost these days? Are they much more expensive than an equivalent 1039/516?
 
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hey @hejsam The 1506/16 pair doesn't seem readily available (rare?). A really bad looking, missing links, beat-up & short set sold for approx 1500 bucks. Most seasoned collectors who have one on a speedy -65 or -66 aren't usually willing to part with them to begin with. Check how often, if ever someone sold a full set here on the forum.

How much does a 1506/16 bracelet cost these days? Are they much more expensive than an equivalent 1039/516?
 
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hey @hejsam The 1506/16 pair doesn't seem readily available (rare?). A really bad looking, missing links, beat-up & short set sold for approx 1500 bucks. Most seasoned collectors who have one on a speedy -65 or -66 aren't usually willing to part with them to begin with. Check how often, if ever someone sold a full set here on the forum.
I have a 1506/16 set dated -64 on my -64 SM300 fortunately, I had the feeling they were just a tad more expensive than the equivalent 1039/516 but are you saying there is a serious difference in price? Or just that they are way more uncommon but roughly the same prices anyways?
 
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I think the issue with the 1506 here is that it might be a nice bracelet that’s worth slightly more than a 1039, but ultimately it looks the same and doesn’t make the watch more attractive than with a 1039 so I personally wouldn’t add assign any extra value unless I was going to sell it, which in my case, I wasn’t. I wanted the thing to wear.