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Omega (CK 2064) from 1938/1939 - how original?
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Dan S
·IMO these numbers were needed during the production process to pair the caseback with the upper part of the case as these parts were finished seperately. Quality in machining was not as high as in our days with CAD turning etc - hence the casebacks were not interchangeable due to too wide tolerances in production. I have experienced this with the screw down models 2410 and 2254. You hardly can mix casebacks up because they mostly only fit on the correct case with the corresponding number.
However, as we all know, one does commonly find watches with mismatched numbers on caseback and lugs, especially military watches, where watchmakers serviced many identical watches simultaneously. So in most case, it is apparently not so terribly difficult to swap them.
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watchmann44232
·The watch is back from the service and here is the promised wrist shot. It's gorgeous! 😀
A bit busy today and tomorrow, but I'll add some photos I've got of movement etc. a bit later.
A bit busy today and tomorrow, but I'll add some photos I've got of movement etc. a bit later.
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watchmann44232
·During the service it received a new friction spring and jewel lock. Friction spring was sourced from Perrin Supply (Omega part no 471/98) and jewel lock from Ebay (Omega part no M/203, 1335/OME 220). According to the watchmaker the amplitude is in and around 260° when measured in different positions.
Broken jewel lock and the replacement in place.
New friction spring
Video closeup of movement running with a new friction spring in place.
Broken jewel lock and the replacement in place.
New friction spring
Video closeup of movement running with a new friction spring in place.
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watchmann44232
·I've been lately trying to improve my watch photography and finally yielded and started practising doing focus stacking last weekend. Here are some 'artsy' photos I just took of the CK2064... Enjoy! (and so much for being 'busy'.... 😥 )
And in the last photo the CK2064 paired with yet unknown reference maybe 19.4T2 based ladies Omega that I snatched up from an 'estate pirate' for my wife because well why not... 😎
And in the last photo the CK2064 paired with yet unknown reference maybe 19.4T2 based ladies Omega that I snatched up from an 'estate pirate' for my wife because well why not... 😎
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amuscare87
·I've been lately trying to improve my watch photography and finally yielded and started practising doing focus stacking last weekend. Here are some 'artsy' photos I just took of the CK2064... Enjoy! (and so much for being 'busy'.... 😥 )
And in the last photo the CK2064 paired with yet unknown reference maybe 19.4T2 based ladies Omega that I snatched up from an 'estate pirate' for my wife because well why not... 😎
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watchmann44232
·what are you using for photos? iPhone? I still have a 12 which is prior to them making all their enhancements to the camera and I cannot get pictures of this level yet
> what are you using for photos? iPhone?
Sony A7R4 for these kind of 'art' shots. I am still perfecting the technique/workflow but I am now practising shooting focus stacked 240MP images (via a7r4 pixelshift). 😅 I should add that although iPhone is wonderful in how close you can get to the subject, at least on non-pro versions the effect of computational photography on fine detail is absolutely infuriating!
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watchmann44232
·And then for something completely different... Some time ago I started recording audio of movements of my watches with a contact mic. Attached are the samples for Naiad before and after the service. Difference is rather audible.
I don't recall why I started doing this exactly, other than that I had the equipment and I was curious to test how different things sound when recorded with the contact mic. And then I just kept on doing it with the watches. Nowadays typically I take the recording when I buy the watch, just before it goes to service and right after.
I find occasionally listening to the tickiing and tocking of watches..surprisingly captivating.
There is a software (tg) that acts as a poor mans timegrapher using PC and a mic with a way to use Linux loopback audio device to feed the old recordings back to it. After I found this, the recordings actually became somewhat more useful and interesting. (caveat emptor: I wouldn't exactly trust the results even if they do seem to correlate with what the results I am getting from the watchmakers).
My current setup/audio chain is
edit: audio level on these is a bit low so you may need to add 10+ dB of gain for the audio to be more easily audible. ('e.g. sox omega-234sc-refCK2064-naiadmedicus-20251115.mp3 output.mp3 gain 20').
( original recordings are taken at 96000Hz, 16bits to a FLAC container. edit: updated recordings /w gain +20 )
I don't recall why I started doing this exactly, other than that I had the equipment and I was curious to test how different things sound when recorded with the contact mic. And then I just kept on doing it with the watches. Nowadays typically I take the recording when I buy the watch, just before it goes to service and right after.
I find occasionally listening to the tickiing and tocking of watches..surprisingly captivating.
There is a software (tg) that acts as a poor mans timegrapher using PC and a mic with a way to use Linux loopback audio device to feed the old recordings back to it. After I found this, the recordings actually became somewhat more useful and interesting. (caveat emptor: I wouldn't exactly trust the results even if they do seem to correlate with what the results I am getting from the watchmakers).
My current setup/audio chain is
Code:
<watch> - <Shadow Electronics SH-711 MIC> - <Focusrite Scarlett DAC> - <linux pc>edit: audio level on these is a bit low so you may need to add 10+ dB of gain for the audio to be more easily audible. ('e.g. sox omega-234sc-refCK2064-naiadmedicus-20251115.mp3 output.mp3 gain 20').
Code:
$ ffprobe omega-234sc-refCK2064-naiadmedicus-20251115.mp3
Input #0, mp3, from 'omega-234sc-refCK2064-naiadmedicus-20251115.mp3':
Metadata:
comment : {"audio-chain":{"adc":"Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 4th gen","mic":"Shadow Electronics SH-711","adc-settings":"gain:+37dB,inst:on,48V:off,safe:off,air:off,input:1"},"recording-os":"Pop!_OS 24.04 LTS","recording-date":"2025-11-15","watch-orientation":"crystal-do
TLEN : 150000
Duration: 00:02:30.03, start: 0.000000, bitrate: 320 kb/s
Stream #0:0: Audio: mp3 (mp3float), 48000 Hz, mono, fltp, 320 kb/s( original recordings are taken at 96000Hz, 16bits to a FLAC container. edit: updated recordings /w gain +20 )
Edited:
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amuscare87
·Sony A7R4 for these kind of 'art' shots. I am still perfecting the technique/workflow but I am now practising shooting focus stacked 240MP images (via a7r4 pixelshift). 😅 I should add that although iPhone is wonderful in how close you can get to the subject, at least on non-pro versions the effect of computational photography on fine detail is absolutely infuriating!
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