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Omega 30t2 vintage: any advice?

mac_omega
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iamvr iamvr
Thanks for sharing this information. This makes assessing those earlier models even trickier.

I've recently noticed that I've entered a new stage in this awesome (but still rather new) hobby from initially being overexcited about any nice looking watch to the other extreme, i.e. smelling deceit and fraud around every corner having been confronted with some many redials, frankens etc. Perhaps it's a normal evolvement for many, perhaps it's only my paranoid mind.

I guess erring on the conservative side is probably not a bad thing in the long run. In this case, it led me to dismiss a formidable watch obviously. The fact that it appeared so clean and priced attractively raised my suspicion. When examining the pictures - I realized in retrospect - I was not being objective, but subconsciously looking for clues to confirm my preexisting bias. Afterwards, when discussing my "findings" with other members privately, they responded along the lines like "I wouldn't have considered it a redial, but I see your concerns. But I'm not an expert on those earlier models, you better check with the wider OF community". The preexisting bias again led to a selective perception by putting more weight on the "I see your concerns" part, while ignoring the rest.

My consolation is that it ended up with another OF member (leaving a slight chance that it may resurface 😉). Great learning experience after all.

To the OP, congrats for the watch, enjoy it in good health!

I think many of us have been in this stage of collecting and after having bought some lemons - noob tax as it is commonly called.

You have to evolve to the next step: do your homework, read, look, compare, ask,... and then be ready for the right moment with cash in your wallet available when a watch appears which ticks all your boxes. Then you have to act very fast and pull the trigger before your competitors will do. You have to know your stuff...
 
François Pépin
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Great advice from MacOmega!

I would add that, though there is some kind of « general knowledge » concerning dials and other stuff, the stage you are in can vary depending on brands and models.

For instance, I think I have some decent knowledge about Omega cal 30 and cal 26,5, or about French cased gold ones, but I know I know almost nothing - in the strong meaning of the word - about connies or speedmasters. Although, I can usually tell who knows about this stuff on this Forum...
 
SkunkPrince
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PoljotNormalnij PoljotNormalnij
Hi, my Omega watch only shows "30" under the balance. According to its S/N, which is under 9,000.000, it was manufactured in 1938. Everything looks and works like new - I am not searching for parts, and not selling it. Simply trying to find out what is the difference between 30 and 30T1, 30T2. Also, the back of the case has this number TO 2712 and also R1042M. Both numbers are done by hand, not stamped / engraved in the same manner as Case S/N. Do you have any knowledge what these numbers mean? TO 2712 and also R1042M? I know that 2712 could be the case id, but every watch that I see in such case on the Internet does not look like mine. I found in one source that only 36,000 units were produced as "30" caliber. Thanks.
T1 and T2 represent improvements to the base 30 caliber. Some parts were redesigned for better timekeeping, better longevity, or similar.

TO 2712 is the catalog number. TO represents the case material (some variant of solid gold in rose?) and 2712 is the case number. Omega used different dial and hand combinations with the same case number, so your watch may be different for that reason. The case itself should be the same with respect to shape and may vary in material.

R1042M is not something obviously Omega related and could be a watchmaker's identification or perhaps any other number of things. If the TO 2712 is scratched in using the same style, the watchmaker might have marked your case with the catalog number for future reference.
 
seduriku
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PoljotNormalnij PoljotNormalnij
Are you referring to eBay?
No I was referring to a well known (at least in Switzerland) Swiss auction site. I'm not sure I'm allowed to mention it on the forum. But sellers are mainly dealing inside the country and payment is almost always done through wire transfer.
 
seduriku
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PoljotNormalnij PoljotNormalnij
Sorry, i am new to this forum and find the layout to be a bit confusing.. Have you purchased that watch? If not - where can i see it? Thanks.
Yes I bought it. Just received it today 😀 I will post pictures.
 
seduriku
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PoljotNormalnij PoljotNormalnij
We do not want to break any rules, do we? 😀 I like reading watch / movement description on such sites. Sometimes i can see info which is not available elsewhere, including Omega Watches site, which does not really describe much when it comes to 1930s-1940s watches. May i ask you to use PM to send me the link? Thanks!
Yes for sure. Don't hesitate to PM me. I'm also new here 😉
Edited:
 
seduriku
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I would not call myself an absolute beginner, as I have already bought a few lemons and paid an entry tax into the vintage watches world 😁 But it was at a much lower price range, and most watches were from the 60's/70's.

The case has no visible ID outside, or inside the case back. About the movement I can't say anything relevant, except that the balance wheel has no screws for adjustment and no antishock protections.

Just fyi I didn't receive a PM from you 😉
 
OllieOnTheRocks
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seduriku seduriku
I would not call myself an absolute beginner, as I have already bought a few lemons and paid an entry tax into the vintage watches world 😁 But it was at a much lower price range, and most watches were from the 60's/70's.

The case has no visible ID outside, or inside the case back. About the movement I can't say anything relevant, except that the balance wheel has no screws for adjustment and no antishock protections.

Just fyi I didn't receive a PM from you 😉
Looks to me like a 2271 case similar to my one, but with a gold case and a different dial. Characteristic of this model.
75E7F2DE-7E62-46C0-8FF1-BD93F9076523.jpeg


or could be a 2318 which is like this one, which would match the crown.
11EC74DA-DDAD-422E-84C5-E7C8D58C8C96.jpeg
 
François Pépin
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PoljotNormalnij PoljotNormalnij
Hi, my Omega watch only shows "30" under the balance. According to its S/N, which is under 9,000.000, it was manufactured in 1938. Everything looks and works like new - I am not searching for parts, and not selling it. Simply trying to find out what is the difference between 30 and 30T1, 30T2. Also, the back of the case has this number TO 2712 and also R1042M. Both numbers are done by hand, not stamped / engraved in the same manner as Case S/N. Do you have any knowledge what these numbers mean? TO 2712 and also R1042M? I know that 2712 could be the case id, but every watch that I see in such case on the Internet does not look like mine. I found in one source that only 36,000 units were produced as "30" caliber. Thanks.


If it is a cal 30, and if the serial number of the movement stays below 8 965 220 [see correction below], it vould be a very intersting piece...

@mac_omega explained the variations between the 30 series in his wonderfull book about the 30 chronometers. One the difference is, for instance, that the 30 had no chamfer in the platine.
Edited:
 
MSNWatch
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François Pépin François Pépin
If it is a cal 30, and if the serial number of the movement stays below 8 965 220, it vould be a very intersting piece...

@mac_omega explained the variations between the 30 series in his wonderfull book about the 30 chronometers. One the difference is, for instance, that the 30 had no chamfer in the platine.

You mean above 8 965 220

600-consecutive-jpg.185196
 
François Pépin
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MSNWatch MSNWatch
You mean above 8 965 220

600-consecutive-jpg.185196

Yes... I meant above 8 965 220 but below 8 965 819... I had Erich's book open in front of me when I answered but still managed to swich the corect numbers! I am tired: I guess it is time for a good glass of chablis!
 
François Pépin
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By the way, could me have pics of this watch - I mean, Poljot's one? Maybe in another thread as it is not always easy to follow a double discussion in one thread...
 
François Pépin
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PoljotNormalnij PoljotNormalnij
Very interesting! Mine is outside of that range of serial numbers. It's 8 983 xxx. Not sure what would be the difference if any in terms of design / components.

It would mean your watch had been part of the forst issue of the cal 30. It would not imply it has special components, but it mean something for collectors and cal 30 lovers!
 
Franco
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mac_omega mac_omega
no, it is OT 2366
PoljotNormalnij PoljotNormalnij
NOS? Unsold from many-many years ago? 😀 Never serviced - preserved since bought N and became OS ?
2366 and 2364 look very much identical - I noticed only one difference - 2366 has a thin line between "3" & "9", and another between XII and centre hole. Extremely sharp looking watch and perfect colour strap (both sides leather - same finish). I wonder why such great watches in 18k gold are often being sold for less than today's Omegas or Rolex in SS case?

Can’t comment on market tendencies, not my thing. But the large majority of those being sold have problems, in particular redials, sometime repaired with non chronometre parts, often lugs which have lost their sharp edges. Those in perfect conditions command higher prices.

The 2366 and 2364 have different case sizes, 35.5 vs 33mm. Consequently the dial diameter is different, and so the retaining ring. Another consequence is the position of the sub second dial, given that the seconds pinion has a fixed distance from the central pinion, but the diameter of the dials is different

2170540D-948E-43F7-97DF-8676F3ECD51F.jpeg
Edited:
 
François Pépin
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The T02712 appears to be a later handmade marking. Usually, this kind of marking is softer, but your watch did not left the factory with it.
 
Dan S
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PoljotNormalnij PoljotNormalnij
Great information! Thank you very much!
I simply got lucky with my purchase. One previous owner, and based on its original strap condition, this watch was worn a dozen of times no more. I searched around to find another one just like it - no luck. Just like you said, those listed on eBay, etc are in completely different shape / condition, and were produced later (calibre 262 Vs 30T2Rg). Mine came with the box and 😀 its original price tag, but no certificate. I am yet to see same or even similar watch with flawless dial and hands). I saw one OT2364 "A rare and remarkably well-preserved", sold in 2018 for CHF13,750. It came with certificate, but the dial had several visible marks.
I hope you can provide some info about 2712 case (please see attachment). Don't know if it's TO 2712, or T02712. Thanks.

Why are you hi-jacking the OP's thread? It is extremely confusing and difficult for people to distinguish whether responses are to the OP or to you. Please start your own thread about your watch.
 
Dan S
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PoljotNormalnij PoljotNormalnij
Roger! Perhaps Moderator can delete my questions to resolve this extremely confusing and difficult thread for people. It can be so confusing to read about Omega 30T2Rg and Omega 30, when the thread title says Omega 30t2 vintage: any advice?

Instead of being a wise-guy, maybe you might just want to learn a bit about how the forum works. It is inappropriate to hi-jack threads and there's a good reason for it.

The OP asked for specific advice about his watch, and people are joining the conversation to answer his questions and talk about his watch. Meanwhile you are asking completely irrelevant questions about different variants of the movement and stupid questions about engravings inside your case-back. If you were the OP, you would probably not appreciate somebody jumping in and taking over your thread.

And making snarky comments about the condition of a watch owned by the person who literally wrote the book on them may not be the best way to enter into the community.
 
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