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Omega 166.088 watch with 1171/1 strap help

R
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Hi everyone, first post on here so please bare with me as I don't know an awful lot about watches (although I do love them), I don't wear it often due to what i do for work so i wear a G-Shock most of the time, this is my first vintage and 'proper' watch I have owned.
I have had this omega for a couple of years now which was passed down from my dad's that he was given by a close family friend some time ago. I think he purchased it in the 70's but I'm not sure when exactly.

After some research I have found it to be a 166.088, I'm assuming it has the original movement in but I don't know and am reluctant to remove the case as I have no experience with this.

The strap is a 1171/1 with 650 end links, do you think this was original with the watch or changed at a later date?

What information do you have on this? The movement etc I would like to know more about it as I haven't been able to find much and like to find out the history of vintage things like this.

IMG20200108143129.jpg IMG20200108143018.jpg IMG20200108142957.jpg IMG20200108143050.jpg IMG20200108143039.jpg IMG20200108143112.jpg


Everything works as it should, it does loose 2-3 minutes over a few days but I don't wear it often so that doesn't bother me much. Is this normal for this type of watch and it's age to do this?
I believe it was serviced around 4 years ago but I can't confirm this without asking my dad.

I think generally from others I have seen its in pretty good condition? Considering until I received it it was worn almost everyday! The glass has a few scratches and the face has a few cracks but I guess for a watch this old that's relatively normal to expect?

What do you think a watch in this condition is worth? I've seen them for sale for various prices but haven't found one in this configuration (strap etc)

I'm not sure what to do with it, I'm thinking if selling it as I don't wear it enough and times have been hard recently so I could do with the money but obviously I would rather keep it if I can!!

Thank you for any help in advance that you are able to provide.
Regards
Rob Cool
Edited:
 
R
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Thank you!

Ah brilliant thank you for showing me the list, that's awesome that it's the same as when it was sold!
I might have to find a shop near me that can open it up and check the movement, i live near Reading in the UK I'm not sure of any places to go but i will have a look.

Hopefully it has the original 1002 movement (I think that's right) then it would be completely original!

Thanks again
 
janice&fred
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I like it. I want it. and there would be no need to open it for me. too bad i'm not in the UK!
 
R
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VetPsychWars VetPsychWars
Should only be a fee seconds off, not a few minutes. Time for a new service.

Tom
Thats what i thought, I remember it has always been like that even when my dad got it serviced, I think it was through the local goldsmith not sure though. It was near enough the same once he got it back.

How much would i be looking at for a service?

Cheers
 
R
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Going to a jewellers in Reading today, Jacobs independent, to get a valuation and quote for a service etc. With valuations do they open the case and check the movement etc or is it normally a visual?

Also, if i do proceed to sell the watch where would be best to advertise it? I was thinking here and possibly eBay?

Thanks again
Rob
 
padders
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Bracelet is likely a replacement but that’s not a massive issue. The watch is from the early 1970s,the bracelet is likely 1980s. It would originally had a trapezoid logo 1171 not the later 1171/1 but neither are hugely valuable. The watch is in very good condition but I don’t think you need to handle it with forensic gloves unless you are hoping to preserve fingerprints or DNA. It needs a service and a new crystal really. No it’s not normal that it loses 2 minutes a day.
Edited:
 
Spacefruit
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[QUOTE=".............?

Also, if i do proceed to sell the watch where would be best to advertise it? I was thinking here and possibly eBay?

Thanks again
Rob[/QUOTE]

::facepalm1::
 
R
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padders padders
Bracelet is likely a replacement but that’s not a massive issues. The Watch is from the early 1970s,the bracelet is likely 1980s. It would originally had a trapezoid logo 1171 not the later 1171/1 but neither are hugely valuable. The watch is in very good condition but I don’t think you need to handle it with forensic gloves unless you are hoping to preserve fingerprints or DNA.

Thank you for you help, haha i was only wearing gloves as i was at work and was cleaning the watch whilst running my machine, i know its not the rarest of Omegas but thats good to hear that it's still in good condition!
 
KingCrouchy
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R RobCool1
Going to a jewellers in Reading today, Jacobs independent, to get a valuation and quote for a service etc. With valuations do they open the case and check the movement etc or is it normally a visual?

Also, if i do proceed to sell the watch where would be best to advertise it? I was thinking here and possibly eBay?

Thanks again
Rob
First, you can't sell here as you don't have the required number of posts. This is a collector forum not "I dump what I just found Forum".
And yes eBay would be the best place to sell.
 
R
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Spacefruit Spacefruit
[QUOTE=".............?

Also, if i do proceed to sell the watch where would be best to advertise it? I was thinking here and possibly eBay?

Thanks again
Rob

::facepalm1::[/QUOTE]

Look i know 🤦, I use eBay a lot to sell car parts etc, it's all i know!!! 🙁
I also would rather not sell the watch, but times are hard so struggling for alternatives right now 🙁
 
R
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KingCrouchy KingCrouchy
First, you can't sell here as you don't have the required number of posts. This is a collector forum not "I dump what I just found Forum".
And yes eBay would be the best place to sell.

Of course sorry, that wasn't my intentions to just sign up and flog it, I am keen to start collecting watches and genuinely interested in learning about how these watches work, this is my first automatic and I'm fascinated with how it works as its so intricate and the precision involved for something so small amazes me.
I work at a company that makes motorsport transmissions where the gears we make are done to 10-20 micron accuracy so to see them this small and so many packed inside a case is fascinating.

Cheers
Rob
 
R
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Hi everyone, sorry to drag this back up but I have a couple of questions with the watch, I had it opened today to see what movement etc that was in it and it turns out it's been fitted with a 1001 movement not a 1002 like I've mainly seen.
Could this be an earlier model before 1002 was released or is it more likely it was replaced at some point? I have some pictures to show this, looks a bit dry (dried oil on the gears) so defo up for a service but still started going as soon as it was picked up!
Other than that what does the condition of it look like? Im assuming the movement was either original or replaced early on in its life.

Thank you,
Rob
 
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VetPsychWars
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I vote replaced. You have a chronometer movement in a watch not marked as a chronometer nor sold as such.

Or just that bridge is different.

Tom
 
R
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Thats very odd!! what is the likelihood that it has a full 1001 movement in? I would've assumed that there would be pins from the chonometer part trying to poke through?
I'm hoping that its just a different bridge!

Thanks for your help!
Rob
 
ChrisN
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R RobCool1
Thats very odd!! what is the likelihood that it has a full 1001 movement in? I would've assumed that there would be pins from the chonometer part trying to poke through?
I'm hoping that its just a different bridge!

Thanks for your help!
Rob
I suspect you're thinking of chronograph (with the extra dials that record time like a stopwatch).

A chronometer is just a tweaked version of a movement design (calibre) that runs within tighter time keeping tolerances.

Here's the Ranfft page for the 1000 series and you can see some are chronometer rated. Sometimes, this data is not completely accurate but, it's a good place to start:
http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Omega_1001

Your watch needs a service from the photos I can see and the rotor has been impacting the bridges by the looks of it.

Cheers, Chris
 
R
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ChrisN ChrisN
I suspect you're thinking of chronograph (with the extra dials that record time like a stopwatch).

A chronometer is just a tweaked version of a movement design (calibre) that runs within tighter time keeping tolerances.

Here's the Ranfft page for the 1000 series and you can see some are chronometer rated. Sometimes, this data is not completely accurate but, it's a good place to start:
http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Omega_1001

Your watch needs a service from the photos I can see and the rotor has been impacting the bridges by the looks of it.

Cheers, Chris

Ah I see thank you for clarifying that for me! So in a basic sense, a 1001 is a more accurate version of a 1002? Is this something that may have been an option when these watches were sold?

Like I mentioned most of these I have seen for sale/online have a 1002 but I have seen a fair amount using a 1001, so may have been upgraded?

When you say it's been impacting is that through where the identification number is? Is that the central part causing this?

Cheers
Rob
 
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