Okay, as promised, scans of a few Calatravas.....

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I too have been using the word "calatrava" here (and often) to refer generically to the same type of Longines watches which are flat and elegant.
I find it pretty convenient and it seemed to me it was an accepted usage, as I didn't invent it and have seen it done elsewhere (maybe Hodinkee, it's true).

in any event not all 1940s Longines have italian nicknames and when someone refers to Longines calatravas we know exactly what they mean. In this particular case it turned out that's exactly what it was.
Language is a system of labels that we chose to convey meaning. if one fulfills a useful purpose without creating unbearable offenses or distortions I don't see why not use it.
So I'll say; as someone focused on 1940s Longines watches, I find the word "calatrava" routinely useful to refer generically to the simple, flat and elegant 1930-1940, snap-on, case back Longines models which may bear a variety of calibers in a variety of cases. And if the word can be used for other watches with the same characterics- flat simple and elegant- that's convenient too.

No worries in any event, no offense meant or taken.

thanks Darren for sharing your beautiful Longines!!

Although I understand what you're getting at - I like to look at the reasons why these terms became to mean what they mean. Take two examples:

1. Calatrava

2. Tricompax

"Calatrava", since the time I started collecting (3-4 years ago), referred to a particular design, styled in pictured below. Most often it was associated with Patek. In fact, Patek even has/had a Calatrava line. Over time the term has become looser. Part of the blame can be attributed to (*1) ignorant collectors who mistook the meaning. But a still larger portion of the blame, IMO, can be placed on unscrupulous dealers who discovered that associating their watches with this term would bring in more $$$ (refer back to *1). Also consider the increasingly loose term "Tre Tacche".

The same can be said of the term "Tri-Compax". A term essentially reserved for Universal Geneve watches, but in spirit was meant to describe the number of complications a watch had. Now the word can often be seen referring to three-register chronographs. Again - part of the blame can be placed on misinformed collectors. But a larger part of the blame, IMO, can be placed on dealers who find that associating their chronographs with a word linked to the growingly hot UG Tri-Compax's brings in the $$$. I've seen it so many times...

Dealers like hot keywords like "Gilt", "Coin Edge", "Jumbo", "Tricompax", "Calatrava", "Tropical" and so do their clients. They are simple markers of desirability. Uncomplicated and arbitrary.

Am I opposed to changing vocabulary in principle? Not at all! But given the reasons in this case - greed and ignorance - I'm inclined to resist with great effort.

P.S.: I admit that terms like "Calatrava" probably changed a lot before I became a collector, but I can't do anything about that now. And if anybody has real knowledge on the subject, please enlighten us.
 
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So I'll say; as someone focused on 1940s Longines watches, I find the word "calatrava" routinely useful to refer generically to the simple, flat and elegant 1930-1940, snap-on, case back Longines models which may bear a variety of calibers in a variety of cases. And if the word can be used for other watches with the same characterics- flat simple and elegant- that's convenient too.

Wait - screw-back cases don't qualify? Given that more than a few of the original Patek Philippe Calatrava models were screw-back, that doesn't make any sense. And "flat"? Again, there were plenty of true Calatravas that weren't particularly flat, nor are some (if not most) of the vintage Longines that appear with that description attached.

More importantly, the problem with using the word to describe non-PP models is, in my view, mainly twofold. First, it began to be used, and is now used almost exclusively for marketing purposes. In other words, so that potential buyers would associate the watch in question with a Patek, and not because there was any need for shorthand to describe certain characteristics. Is it difficult or unwieldy to simply say "simple and elegant"?

Secondly, it really doesn't have any specific, agreed upon meaning. Even your suggestion of "simple and elegant", which is probably as reasonable a definition as any, obviously fails to be a meaningful usage, given how subjective and malleable it is. Take the OP watches on this thread, for example. Very nice watches, to be sure, but if anyone believes that "simple and elegant" would accurately describe them all, then the definition of Calatrava would be so broad as to lose any real meaning, as virtually every active watch company from the mid-20th Century produced such watches.

Now, if a certain level of quality were to be inferred from the use of the word, something that dealers certainly expect given the PP association, that would help to reduce a diluted pool of "Calatravas" from an otherwise huge number. But even with that qualification, there are, I would argue, far too many that would technically fit the description for it to be meaningful.

To help illustrate the point, here are some watches that I own. Are they "Calatravas"? If your answer is "no", please explain why. If your answer is "yes", then I rest my case.

Marvin560x.jpg

CymaChr6.jpg

Rec22a.jpg

SLM22c.jpg

GPHFr6.jpg
Edited:
 
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Gents, I get your points but will respond later as I just made my way to a flea market. Theory is all good but what about practice? 😀
 
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No


Calatrava
Patek Philippe's signature model

Created in 1932, it is the result of an avant-garde philosophy of aesthetics that showcases sleek lines and subtle elegance; the collection expresses artistic ingenuity at its very finest. The endearing quality of the design reflects the relentless pursuit of perfection that has always been at the core of Patek Philippe's mission.

These inimitably elegant ladies' and men's watches are impervious to short-lived trends, recapturing the hearts of each new generation. Whether extra thin, with hobnail patterns or wide polished bezels, they are all unmistakable members of the Calatrava family and even their changing faces cannot belie their origins. No other watch lends better expression to the true Patek Philippe style.


http://www.patek.com/en/mens-watches/calatrava

It's a model of PP and it's not a castle as in pre PP meaning
 
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Simply based on the models described by PP themselves as "Calatrava", I think almost any well designed watch could be attributed to "Calatrava Style".

I can't see any distinct style signature in these watches.








A bit like "Bauhaus" IMO.


Generic style.
 
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While the debate rages on, all I can say is keep the watch pictures coming!

I love simple 3-handers (preferably hand-wound), and whether Calatrava, Calatrava-style or whatever, there are many good looking watches in this thread, yum!
 
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Wait - screw-back cases don't qualify? Given that more than a few of the original Patek Philippe Calatrava models were screw-back, that doesn't make any sense. And "flat"? Again, there were plenty of true Calatravas that weren't particularly flat, nor are some (if not most) of the vintage Longines that appear with that description attached.

More importantly, the problem with using the word to describe non-PP models is, in my view, mainly twofold. First, it began to be used, and is now used almost exclusively for marketing purposes. In other words, so that potential buyers would associate the watch in question with a Patek, and not because there was any need for shorthand to describe certain characteristics. Is it difficult or unwieldy to simply say "simple and elegant"?

Secondly, it really doesn't have any specific, agreed upon meaning. Even your suggestion of "simple and elegant", which is probably as reasonable a definition as any, obviously fails to be a meaningful usage, given how subjective and malleable it is. Take the OP watches on this thread, for example. Very nice watches, to be sure, but if anyone believes that "simple and elegant" would accurately describe them all, then the definition of Calatrava would be so broad as to lose any real meaning, as virtually every active watch company from the mid-20th Century produced such watches.

Now, if a certain level of quality were to be inferred from the use of the word, something that dealers certainly expect given the PP association, that would help to reduce a diluted pool of "Calatravas" from an otherwise huge number. But even with that qualification, there are, I would argue, far too many that would technically fit the description for it to be meaningful.

To help illustrate the point, here are some watches that I own. Are they "Calatravas"? If your answer is "no", please explain why. If your answer is "yes", then I rest my case.

Marvin560x.jpg

CymaChr6.jpg

Rec22a.jpg

SLM22c.jpg

GPHFr6.jpg

Fine, I won't call them Calatrava. I call DIBS though ;-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Calatrava??? ::stirthepot::


Damn I love this forum, we get all pissy razzing each other about the smallest things....... anything for a laugh!

For the record, in my book: Calatrava = Patek.... even if they've watered the purity of the original clean design down in the name of marketing.

After their "aviator" watch last year I wouldn't be surprised if Patek's next Calatrava looked like a Hublot, its all about making money after all.
 
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So excited to see Darren on here. His IG account is one of my favorites, as his collection is sublime.

Awesome pieces, and he is tremendously generous with his knowledge.

Will be a great addition to the OF.
 
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Wait - screw-back cases don't qualify? Given that more than a few of the original Patek Philippe Calatrava models were screw-back, that doesn't make any sense.

And "flat"? Again, there were plenty of true Calatravas that weren't particularly flat, nor are some (if not most) of the vintage Longines that appear with that description attached.

More importantly, the problem with using the word to describe non-PP models is, in my view, mainly twofold. First, it began to be used, and is now used almost exclusively for marketing purposes. In other words, so that potential buyers would associate the watch in question with a Patek, and not because there was any need for shorthand to describe certain characteristics. Is it difficult or unwieldy to simply say "simple and elegant"?

Secondly, it really doesn't have any specific, agreed upon meaning. Even your suggestion of "simple and elegant", which is probably as reasonable a definition as any, obviously fails to be a meaningful usage, given how subjective and malleable it is. Take the OP watches on this thread, for example. Very nice watches, to be sure, but if anyone believes that "simple and elegant" would accurately describe them all, then the definition of Calatrava would be so broad as to lose any real meaning, as virtually every active watch company from the mid-20th Century produced such watches.

Now, if a certain level of quality were to be inferred from the use of the word, something that dealers certainly expect given the PP association, that would help to reduce a diluted pool of "Calatravas" from an otherwise huge number. But even with that qualification, there are, I would argue, far too many that would technically fit the description for it to be meaningful.

To help illustrate the point, here are some watches that I own. Are they "Calatravas"? If your answer is "no", please explain why. If your answer is "yes", then I rest my case.

Marvin560x.jpg

CymaChr6.jpg

Rec22a.jpg

SLM22c.jpg

GPHFr6.jpg

Gents, you guys are hard core, this is a lot of enegy for a word that was intended as a convenient short hand.

However, I totally appreciate the point of not embracing just any term sellers use to hype up something.

PP is a big gap in my horological culture -- which I'll accept quite shamelessly.
If calatrava is only a PP model it could seems fair to stick to the PP meaning.
However it would be a pity because "flat simple and elegant" is in fact unwieldy if you're trying to refer to all three at once -- as in the IWC example @Modest_Proposal posted, which to me embodies the "calatrava" moniker perfectly.

So @Tony C., yes I would call all the watches you posted calatravas -- and yes when it comes to screw backs I don't use the word calatrava because 1/ in Longines parlance screw backs have specific nicknames and 2/ I get the sense those screwbacks/ moisture proof watches were initially invented and marketed to withstand more rugged "sporty" uses as opposed to the more dressy watches that to me "calatrava" evoques.

Talking about which, you'll note 1940s screw backs are often -- totally abusively-- called "military style".
But since that irritates me I can also understand purists in other instances.

Cheers,
S

PS edit - having looked at all the PP calatravas @JimInOz posted I do think there is a unified style making it logical to use that word.
Edited:
 
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Hello all.

Just getting back to this thread - didn't realize my post was going to spawn a discussion around the proper use of the term "calatrava"!

For what it's worth, I have no idea what in fact falls within and outside of this heading. As U.S. Supreme Court justice Potter Stewart famously suggested back in the mid 1960s (albeit in reference to pornography rather than timepiece categories) - "I know it when I see it". I don't think Patek has any particular claim to or domain over the term "calatrava", but then again, maybe they do. To me, certain types of simple, time-only timepieces from the 1940s era have the "look and feel" that I typically associate with this term. Whether or not these watches are in fact calatravas is beyond my pay scale.

Enjoy seeing some of the other "calatravas" (or non-calatravas, as the case may be) posted above. Would love to see more!

Darren
 
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Fantastic watches @dmgreen11 ... i've been following you on instagram for a while and have made unsuccesful attempts to obtain one of them 😁
 
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I've refrained from commenting so far because two out of three of my pet peeve misdescriptions are being tossed about. All you need to do is add "art deco" being misused for any watch before 1950 to "calatrava" and "tricompax" and you'd have the trifecta.
 
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@dmgreen11

I apologize for have been a catalyst to reducing this thread to a tangent of your original post. Like LouS, my reaction is broad in nature, and has little to do with how you characterize your own watches. And your collection is superb.

So thanks very much for taking it in stride.


@Syrte

While I very much appreciate your willingness to be open-minded on the issue, my pedantic nature compels me to make a couple of further points.

First, even if one is willing to go well beyond the confines of PP models, I don't see how "flat" can reasonably be used as a defining characteristic. Flatter than what? A Ploprof? I'm joking, of course, but I see many so-called Longines Calatrava models that are not particularly flat. As mentioned previously, even some PP models that fall into that collection aren't particularly flat.

So, "simple and elegant"? Sure, I can see that as being a common denominator. But not "flat".

Secondly, I'm not sure where your reference to Longines' screw-backs comes from, but it isn't accurate. There are many different examples of screw-backs without model names. Here's just one of mine:

LG1268a.jpg

Furthermore, using a descriptive name that originally applied only to PP models is one thing, but changing the definition strikes me as being well over the line. In other words, as there are screw-back examples of Patek Philippe Calatravas, how could the very same characteristic be disqualifying when applied to other brands?

Finally, as suggested in my response to Darren above, my main quibble with the usage is that dealers are reckless in their efforts to inflate values, and that is what catalyzed the arguable dilution of its meaning. Had it been only the likes of you and Darren using the term, I would never have reacted so strongly. But as it is primarily used to inflate values, I am left with a sour taste in my mouth.

Cheers,

Tony C.
 
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For what it's worth, I always figured the term "Calatrava" was borrowed from Patek to describe a certain style that they more or less trademarked (even if not legally): simple, elegant, slim but oversized (in vintage terms, so 34-38mm) three-handers that are of a certain quality and prestige.

When referring to non Patek models of this style, I like to put "Calatrava" with quotation marks or speak of Calatrava-style.

In the end I guess it doesn't really matter, they're breathtaking watches, all.

Thanks for sharing, Darren. Like others have mentioned, was already drooling over your IG pics. Happy to see them here as well!

EDIT because a post is always better with pics. My "Calatrava":

WP_20160718_001.jpg
WP_20160718_007.jpg
 
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Hi Tony, as stated I was thinking more about 1940s watches and wasn't refering to 1950s Longines such as the screwback you've posted. (And in the universe I'm looking at, screw backs are called tre tacche and sei tacche).
Perfection is not part of this world and that's fine.
Beyond that, I'm done with this conversation.
Edited:
 
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I
you'll note 1940s screw backs are often -- totally abusively-- called "military style".

ooh yeah, definitely add that to the list of peeves - very annoying
 
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No one is seeking perfection; just a consistent and reasonably defensible definition.
 
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Hi

Have to agree with tony, when we talk Calatrava , it's a patek. I remember once John Ireland refers to a rolex 1013 ( uncommon by the way ) as a rolex Calatrava .... It's a special time only full size oyster prep.. That was about it....


Bill