Newbie...Constellation 1968 questions (winder, bracelet clasp)

[EZC]

Hi, after being a lurker on this forum, I have bought my very first vintage watch...Constellation 1968 monocoque case 168.025, 564 movement. I'm very happy with this beautiful watch but do have a few questions, hoping some people on here can help.

Winder - There seems to be mixed opinions on watch winders and I have read a lot of conflicting advice. I don't plan on wearing this watch daily, probably once a week or so. My brother is a automatic watch collector and insists a winder is necessary. He has said: "There's a lot of metal-on-metal connections points inside the watch which avoid wear through a combination of jewels (artificial rubys) and grease of varying viscosities. If the watch stops then these connections aren't moving and tiny (microscopic ridges may occur in the bearing surfaces) which will cause that gear to be harder to drive and reduce your accuracy and hence time between services." He compares it to car wheel bearings etc, and says "You don't have to spend lots on a winder, it just needs to rotate/aternate a few times every 15 mins or so.".

Yet there seems to be suggestions that use of a watch winder (particularly a cheaper one) will cause unecessary wear, so I am not sure what to do. Any advice would be appreciated!

Bracelet catch - The other thing I'm not sure about is the bracelet clasp/catch (Omega 2038 milanese bracelet, sold as orginal bracelet). Until now I've only ever owned modern/new watches where clasp fastens with a strong click and you need to really get your fingernail under it to pull it up and take the watch off. I noticed if you fasten the clasp very gently, it closes very 'softly' (minimal or no click sound) and then (if you flick fingernail against edge of clasp as if to open clasp) there is a tiny bit of play where it will move out slightly by about 1mm or so as if it was going to open (although it doesn't). The clasp seems to catch much better/tightly If f I close the clasp very quickly and firmly with a bit more pressure (then I hear the click and it feels more secure). Now I realise this is a vintage bracelet and clasp so it wouldn't be like it was when it was new - I assume its reasonably secure, but the last thing I want is for it to open by itself and drop off my wrist! Am I worrying about nothing? Is there a way to tighten it? I have looked at it with a loupe but no idea how it works.

I do apologise if these questions seem silly or have been asked before - I am a newbie, both to this forum and to vintage watch ownership so I would appreciate any advice or thoughts! Thanks in advance.

 

[gatorcpa]

I happen to own the exact same watch. It's a nice alternative to the dog-leg 168.005 with the same movement (cal. 564) at a fraction of the price.

E EZC

He has said: "There's a lot of metal-on-metal connections points inside the watch which avoid wear through a combination of jewels (artificial rubys) and grease of varying viscosities. If the watch stops then these connections aren't moving and tiny (microscopic ridges may occur in the bearing surfaces) which will cause that gear to be harder to drive and reduce your accuracy and hence time between services." He compares it to car wheel bearings etc, and says "You don't have to spend lots on a winder, it just needs to rotate/aternate a few times every 15 mins or so.".

I think there is happy medium for this. Watches that are properly oiled likely should be run on the wrist once in a while, for some of the same reasons your brother outlined. However, everyday running will increase wear and tear on other parts that will be difficult to replace. Winders are generally tuned to modern watches. No one knows the "recommended" turns per hour or day for vintage watches because home winders just didn't exist back then. Just have it serviced and wear it normally.

E EZC

Now I realise this is a vintage bracelet and clasp so it wouldn't be like it was when it was new - I assume its reasonably secure, but the last thing I want is for it to open by itself and drop off my wrist! Am I worrying about nothing? Is there a way to tighten it?

This is likely an OEM optional bracelet. It may also be possible that someone added a branded clasp to a generic bracelet. No way to tell from these pictures. A jeweler may be able to manipulate the clip to the proper position to give a little more security. I have several similar bracelets and have never had one fail on me, but your mileage may vary.

Hope this helps,
gatorcpa

 

[EZC]

Thanks for this. I've been doing a lot of reading about the use of watch winders, and had been inclined towards not using one despite my brother's advice, so that is helpful.

The watch was sold as having the original bracelet - I'm no expert so I don't know if it actually is the original bracelet (see photo) - but it came from a reputable dealer in Switzerland who has very high ratings on Chrono24. There is a good jeweller in my town which does sell vintage and high end watches, so I will take there to get them to have a look at it.

I am very pleased with this watch, this case style is perfect for me being female with very narrow wrists. As much as I love the dog leg style, it wouldn't suit me as much I think.

Thanks again for your advice!

 

[Dan S]

Your brother is incorrect, and the analogy with a car engine is not a good one as has been discussed on the forum many times. In a watch movement, the oil does not circulate. Leaving the watch on a winder will create unnecessary wear on the movement, and if you don't wear it for a week or so, you'll probably feel the need to set the time anyway. So the main advantage is not having to set the date. For me, the best solution is to buy no-date watches, which are much more attractive anyway. [The second best solution is - just don't bother to set the date.]

 

[Bruce235]

Dan S

Your brother is incorrect, and the analogy with a car engine is not a good one as has been discussed on the forum many times. In a watch movement, the oil does not circulate. Leaving the watch on a winder will create unnecessary wear on the movement, and if you don't wear it for a week or so, you'll probably feel the need to set the time anyway. So the main advantage is not having to set the date. For me, the best solution is to buy no-date watches, which are much more attractive anyway. [The second best solution is - just don't bother to set the date.]

Plus it is a needless use of electricity. Save the penguins!

 

[ecarpino]

I've never seen this reference before, it's really nice. Looks like some sort of transitional design between the dog-leg Pie-pan of the 60s and the C-shaped ones of the 70s.

Thanks for posting it!

 

[gatorcpa]

https://omega-constellation-collect...7/uncommon-omega-constellation-monocoque.html

gatorcpa

 

[EZC]

Dan S

Your brother is incorrect, and the analogy with a car engine is not a good one as has been discussed on the forum many times. In a watch movement, the oil does not circulate. Leaving the watch on a winder will create unnecessary wear on the movement, and if you don't wear it for a week or so, you'll probably feel the need to set the time anyway. So the main advantage is not having to set the date. For me, the best solution is to buy no-date watches, which are much more attractive anyway. [The second best solution is - just don't bother to set the date.]

Thanks. I was worried about uncessary wear so these answers are helpful.

The first few times I wore the watch I didn't set the date actually - I wasn't sure what time of day to change it, to ensure it then changed at midnight and not 12 noon. And the seller advised only to change date with hands at bottom half of the dial. My brother advised to set date in the morning.

 

[Dan S]

E EZC

The first few times I wore the watch I didn't set the date actually - I wasn't sure what time of day to change it, to ensure it then changed at midnight and not 12 noon. And the seller advised only to change date with hands at bottom half of the dial. My brother advised to set date in the morning.

I usually advance the date to the previous day using the quick-set, and then move the time forward through midnight to set the final time correctly. Good advice about not using the quick-set when the time is near midnight.

 

[theluckyluke]

On my opinion, readjusting the watch, or winding it every morning is actually something I appreciate. Sort of my bound with the watch. I usually don’t bother with the date, unless special event.

Only takes a few seconds, not worth the electricity and raw material spent on an automatic winder.

 

[Donn Chambers]

While I do use a winder occasionally for modern watches, I would never put a vintage watch on a winder, for exactly the reasons gatorcpa stated — don’t want to potentially cause premature wear on old parts that are hard to come by. Just wind it up when you wear it occasionally and enjoy

 

[EZC]

theluckyluke

On my opinion, readjusting the watch, or winding it every morning is actually something I appreciate. Sort of my bound with the watch.

That's a nice way of looking at it! I like setting the correct time on it when I put it on.

 

[EZC]

Donn Chambers

While I do use a winder occasionally for modern watches, I would never put a vintage watch on a winder, for exactly the reasons gatorcpa stated — don’t want to potentially cause premature wear on old parts that are hard to come by. Just wind it up when you wear it occasionally and enjoy

Good advice (from you and the others who have commented here, thanks) - so I'll be following it - and not using a winder. Saves both the expense of purchasing one and the worry about potentially causing unnecessary wear!

 

[nkhandekar]

Dan S

no-date watches, ... are much more attractive anyway.

Rarely is it said, Dan is 100% wrong!!!!

 

[wagudc]

nkhandekar

Rarely is it said, Dan is 100% wrong!!!!

You must hate symmetry and the number 3.

 

[nkhandekar]

wagudc

You must hate symmetry and the number 3.

Not exactly...I think asymmetry makes for interesting looking when its well done.

 

[EZC]

Interesting...I had looked at pie-pans without the date function and I felt like there was something missing. Regardless of whether or not I set the correct date, I wanted the watch I chose to have the date function on the dial. I guess it's all down to personal taste. For example, my brother told me, regarding my watch, he would've had lyre lugs and gold indices on white (but he's a Speedmaster guy). Well, he introduced me to these watches in the first place. So each to our own! I have a lot to learn here being new to all this but I suspect this will not be my first vintage watch. It seems somewhat addictive...?!

 

[TexOmega]

wagudc

You must hate symmetry and the number 3.

Nope, just a trinumberphobe. There. I said it.

let the carnage begin.

 

[kaplan]

The 2038 and 2039 can release by tension if they are worn, so your worries are real

You could yank the part where there is the Omega logo with a screwdriver, gently, the 2 sides, increasing the width, this could increase closure tension

If you pay attention, there is a rail underneath, so while I don't know about the click etc. - you might be pushing it to a non-rail spot etc.