New acquisition Seamaster 2846

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Hi All
Hope everyone is doing OK during the current lockdown. I have been alleviating boredom by occasionally logging into live auctions. Mainly just to get a better understanding of prices and the watch business in general. Anyway, I have been disciplined untill today with no itchy trigger finger on the "bid now" button. That was until today where I bid on this Seamaster and got it for pounds £200 plus the commission. What have I done?!! My rationale was that the dial looked clean enough and I like the chunky case of this model. The watch does have issues, the crown is loose and it may need a service but I feel that if it's a turkey I won't be losing a fortune. On the other hand if I spend £200 getting it ship shape I have a decent Seamaster for around £490. It has a 501 movement and is dated to 1954/55 according to the auction report. I will post more pics when I get it in hand but I am keen to hear your thoughts. Regards Dan
 
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That is a redial which is not great news from the collector POV but might make for a nice usable piece all the same. It was pretty cheap which is a plus. I do like these. It wont be as early as 1954, more likely ~1956 but the serial will tell you more.
 
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That is a redial which is not great news from the collector POV but might make for a nice usable piece all the same. It was pretty cheap which is a plus. I do like these.

Ah ha, I did have a suspicion as its very clean. It's also probably why there were 32 watchers and only a few bidders. I'm OK with that. I would rather me pay the price I paid and know than by buying a redial off a collector for £650. What are the giveaways of the redial and do you think its a decent job?
 
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That is a redial which is not great news from the collector POV but might make for a nice usable piece all the same. It was pretty cheap which is a plus. I do like these. It wont be as early as 1954, more likely ~1956 but the serial will tell you more.

The case looks to be in nice condition with strong beveled edges, which in itself is quite tricky to find on these 50's Seamasters and always a plus. Unfortunate about the redial, but if the dial had been original it would have sold for double the price.
 
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The case looks to be in nice condition with strong beveled edges, which in itself is quite tricky to find on these 50's Seamasters and always a plus. Unfortunate about the redial, but if the dial had been original it would have sold for double the price.

Yeah, I thought the case was nice. Ultimately I will be pleased if the issues are insignificant and I have a nice piece to wear. It would have been great if it was all original but it could be an affordable entry into Omega ownership.
 
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It’ll make a nice daily wearer. Depending on where you are, a service should set you back £100-120.
 
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I would try to avoid investing any more in this watch. If you can wear it as-is, that would be the best option.
 
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It’ll make a nice daily wearer. Depending on where you are, a service should set you back £100-120.

That would be perfect.
 
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I would try to avoid investing any more in this watch. If you can wear it as-is, that would be the best option.

I don't think I can get away with that as the crown is loose apparently. I will know a bit more when I get it. Obviously if I take the caseback off and it's awful then it will be sold as is with full disclosure. I wouldn't want to lose money on it but it was a gamble.
 
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Get as cheap a service as you can, like £200* or so and you will still come out with something that you could get you money back on if you wanted to move it on.

How can I tell its a redial? There are quite a few things. Firstly, usually this style of dial has a sort of faux pie pan 2 tone effect where there is a matt finish ring round the edge and a shiny middle, this one is flat and vertically brushed. Secondly the Seamaster script is off and thirdly all the printing is too heavy. it is also missing the Swiss or Swiss Made text under the 6 marker, though that can sometimes be hidden. There are tell tale ghost indices under the applied markers which are not there on original dials.

I am being overly critical I know, but you did ask and anyone who calls redial like I have should be prepared to explain it and explain it convincingly else he is just slinging mud, always give the watch the benefit of the doubt unless sure! In fact it is not an unattractive piece at all. I'd wear it as a beater but I would service it first.

*this is an auto don't forget and will likely need a new mainspring. I would be surprised if anyone can do a decent job for much less than this level, many respected forum favourites would be at least £50-100 more.
Edited:
 
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If @padders is being critical, then I am about to be downright harsh, but I'm sincerely trying to give you my best advice. Turn around and sell it, take a small loss. And then use what you've learned to buy something better. As you learn more about vintage Omega watches, you will become increasingly unhappy with it.
 
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If @padders is being critical, then I am about to be downright harsh, but I'm sincerely trying to give you my best advice. Turn around and sell it, take a small loss. And then use what you've learned to buy something better. As you learn more about vintage Omega watches, you will become increasingly unhappy with it.
I am not certain. I paid my n00b tax on my first redial acquisition, but I still wear it - and actually, I still like it.
 
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Get as cheap a service as you can, like £200* or so and you will still come out with something that you could get you money back on if you wanted to move it on.

How can I tell its a redial? There are quite a few things. Firstly, usually this style of dial has a sort of faux pie pan 2 tone effect where there is a matt finish ring round the edge and a shiny middle, this one is flat and vertically brushed. Secondly the Seamaster script is off and thirdly all the printing is too heavy. it is also missing the Swiss or Swiss Made text under the 6 marker, though that can sometimes be hidden. There are tell tale ghost indices under the applied markers which are not there on original dials.

I am being overly critical I know, but you did ask and anyone who calls redial like I have should be prepared to explain it and explain it convincingly else he is just slinging mud, always give the watch the benefit of the doubt unless sure! In fact it is not an unattractive piece at all. I'd wear it as a beater but I would service it first.

*this is an auto don't forget and will likely need a new mainspring. I would be surprised if anyone can do a decent job for much less than this level, many respected forum favourites would be at least £50-100 more.
Get as cheap a service as you can, like £200* or so and you will still come out with something that you could get you money back on if you wanted to move it on.

How can I tell its a redial? There are quite a few things. Firstly, usually this style of dial has a sort of faux pie pan 2 tone effect where there is a matt finish ring round the edge and a shiny middle, this one is flat and vertically brushed. Secondly the Seamaster script is off and thirdly all the printing is too heavy. it is also missing the Swiss or Swiss Made text under the 6 marker, though that can sometimes be hidden. There are tell tale ghost indices under the applied markers which are not there on original dials.

I am being overly critical I know, but you did ask and anyone who calls redial like I have should be prepared to explain it and explain it convincingly else he is just slinging mud, always give the watch the benefit of the doubt unless sure! In fact it is not an unattractive piece at all. I'd wear it as a beater but I would service it first.

*this is an auto don't forget and will likely need a new mainspring. I would be surprised if anyone can do a decent job for much less than this level, many respected forum favourites would be at least £50-100 more.
 
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Hi
No, I don't think your being overly critical at all and I am pleased to learn more about these watches. I will say here that I am a general watch person. I'm deliberately avoiding the word collector as to my mind a collector is somebody more discerning and aware of the various references etc. I am merely a chap on a small budget who enjoys these old mechanical watches. £200 would be my budget , and for that I would hopefully have a fairly accurate, nice looking watch that I could sell for what I have shelled out on it in a few years if I wanted to upgrade.
 
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If @padders is being critical, then I am about to be downright harsh, but I'm sincerely trying to give you my best advice. Turn around and sell it, take a small loss. And then use what you've learned to buy something better. As you learn more about vintage Omega watches, you will become increasingly unhappy with it.


Hi, appreciate the advice. Yeah, maybe one day I will sell a few of my watches and invest in an all original Omega but I think this one would do me for now. To use an automotive analogie, I am like the guy who turns up to the classic car events in an old ratty Morris minor with the mismatched panels. Anything too nice takes away a bit of the enjoyment of wearing for me.
 
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Should Seamasters of this vintage, above/below, all have a sunburst dial? This one also has the vertical brush marks.

51799.jpg
 
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@Danwales I was in agreement with @Dan S until I read your last post.
if you’ve really been into old watches for some years, have set a budget of 200 £ and have been comfortable with the concessions it entails, I’d say you did quite well if the movement is in decent enough condition.
You got yourself a pretty good looking automatic Omega.
You’ll probably get a better sense of it once you get it of course....
In the meantime, you may want to read the wonderful sticky thread written by @ConElPueblo - entitled “Learn how to fish”.

Best regards
 
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@Danwales I was in agreement with @Dan S until I read your last post.
if you’ve really been into old watches for some years, have set a budget of 200 £ and have been comfortable with the concessions it entails, I’d say you did quite well if the movement is in decent enough condition.
You got yourself a pretty good looking automatic Omega.
You’ll probably get a better sense of it once you get it of course....
In the meantime, you may want to read the wonderful sticky thread written by @ConElPueblo - entitled “Learn how to fish”.

Best regards

Thank-you. Yeah, I have a variety of watches, some old Cymas , a universal geneve, smiths, but have never owned an Omega. I will keep you all informed of how I get on and will post pictures
 
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I've always loved the 2846, especially thanks to the fat lugs.
As has been pointed out before, the lugs on your's are incredibly sharp - which is great. There are some really badly polished examples out there, so I think the case alone should provide some pleasure.
It's a shame it has been re-dialed, especially with the brushing not being perfectly vertical.

For some it may be worse, but here is what I'd try to do: Find a dial that's correct to the watch and have it installed by your watchmaker. An original dial, even if it's "franken" is far better (to me) than a redial. And it should not set you back too much - just check whether it's original before you buy.

But that's just what I would do - for some a franken may be worse than a redial, but at some point I may forget about the franken, but the redial will remind me everytime I look at it.
 
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I've always loved the 2846, especially thanks to the fat lugs.
As has been pointed out before, the lugs on your's are incredibly sharp - which is great. There are some really badly polished examples out there, so I think the case alone should provide some pleasure.
It's a shame it has been re-dialed, especially with the brushing not being perfectly vertical.

For some it may be worse, but here is what I'd try to do: Find a dial that's correct to the watch and have it installed by your watchmaker. An original dial, even if it's "franken" is far better (to me) than a redial. And it should not set you back too much - just check whether it's original before you buy.

But that's just what I would do - for some a franken may be worse than a redial, but at some point I may forget about the franken, but the redial will remind me everytime I look at it.

That's sound advice and I will explore my options when it comes. I could of course open the caseback to find a horror show. Bit of a funny story, but when I woke up his morning I certainly didn't intend to buy the watch and I was actually out jogging, listening to the auction online with earphones and I stopped when the Omega came up. I made the winning bid standing there in my running shorts. At £190 the bids stopped and fair warning was given and I got it for £200. The fat lug case was what I liked too. I once saw one on a beads of rice bracelet selling for £1500 in Stow on the Wold but it was/is unobtainable due to the cost. I would like to get a similar look for much cheaper and I am prepared to concede certain things for that.