When using a stake to not hammer it. A light press with fingers that is all that is needed. I have found on the dismembered Landerons, that one can get it close before pressing it in all the way. Twisting with the slot can cause it to become loose or break the side of the stud.
Not sure if locktight is allowed. So far I have not had to do that.
Go slow and be prepared to repeat the adjustments many times with the balance and fork removed. A usb inspection scope helps. I saw that demonstrated at WOSTEP in the 1990s, when such things were really cutting edge.
The old books imply adjustments were made by hammering and filing the levers, so one does not really know what was done before. Before WWII mass stampings such parts were hand fit. I suspect that many of the post war mass produced stamped out ones got sometimes mangled by people following the old instructions. I have tools for shaving the bottom of screws. Not something I have used. So one also has be be careful about what screw goes into what hole. Most holes go all the way through the plate, so one has to check both sides for clearance. Many of the screws are keeper or 'safety' screws what hold the parts in place and keep them from falling out when the movement is jostled about.
I also often find the chrono bridge and the balance bridge screws swapped. The balance bridge screw is the longer one according to most data sheets. Chrono bridge screws are usually the same as the barrel bridge. Always check the data sheet.
