Need advise on Explorer before I buy

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$6,500 is a bit much for this explorer 2. I wont deny that it is in pretty decent shape, but I'd pay no more than $5,500 - $5,700 tops. Mind you, I did buy a polar exp 2 head only and had to source a bracelet, then it went to service at rolliworks for overhaul and some laser welding which added a bit to the end cost.
 
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I appreciate everyone's input. The hands do look a tad bit lighter than the dial so I will have to investigate a bit more to make sure. I am very happy with the case even if it has been polished lightly in the past. The dial I like but I don't love. Like others said no one knows when that will turn if ever any darker. After hearing from everyone I am leaning on passing on this one and waiting for one I LOVE and not just like. Then again I can see if I get a better deal and wear this one until my true love comes knocking 😁
This is common i think - certainly my 16700 from ‘93 has tritium hands which in some light, especially when indoors, appear duller than the tritium markers, and i have seen this affect often with watches of this era

hard to capture, but this might give you an indication of what i am talking about

 
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$6,500 is a bit much for this explorer 2. I wont deny that it is in pretty decent shape, but I'd pay no more than $5,500 - $5,700 tops. Mind you, I did buy a polar exp 2 head only and had to source a bracelet, then it went to service at rolliworks for overhaul and some laser welding which added a bit to the end cost.
I had a friend who wanted a top end modern Colt 1911- they were around $1k at the time for a primo example, but he wasn’t going to pay that. So he bought a beater frame for $350 and had work done, then then a new slide & barrel, lots of machining, lots of parts (I kept track of what he spent in my head as he updated me on the progress). In the end he had a lovely pistol, not a factory original mind you but a lovely pistol. I asked, so what had this gun cost you...and his response....$350.🙄
Sometimes just go for the best one and call it done.
 
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I had a friend who wanted a top end modern Colt 1911- they were around $1k at the time for a primo example, but he wasn’t going to pay that. So he bought a beater frame for $350 and had work done, then then a new slide & barrel, lots of machining, lots of parts (I kept track of what he spent in my head as he updated me on the progress). In the end he had a lovely pistol, not a factory original mind you but a lovely pistol. I asked, so what had this gun cost you...and his response....$350.🙄
Sometimes just go for the best one and call it done.

Agreed, once upon a time, a well known second hand watch shop i frequent had polar explorer 2s at $4,200 a piece, usually A or P serials no b/p and it was where I first saw the polar. Id pass by the shop time after time deciding before I got my first one and a few years after Id wanted another for more everyday wear but didnt pull the trigger. Then the prices rose and the dealer would eventually tell me all gone, even the black dials. Some times just gotta get em when the getting is good. I figure with guns, usually want to buy new anyway.
 
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....it’s not just our watches that are getting older 🙁

This makes me want to wish a "picture of Dorian Gray" watch, that takes all the ageing from me.....

Many good advices have been given in this thread so far. I was only thinking that if you ever intend to sell the watch, you will regret not having chosen one with papers and box. Same if you want to pass it on to your kids. Only when you are 200% sure you will never ever sell this watch, no matter what, then b&p don't matter.

This particular example of ex II shown here does not seem to "sing" to you nor the price seems a particularly good offer.
The ex II has also been my holy grail, and I remember too well my head full of quentions while hunting. Untill one day I saw this NOS one with b&p, then my heart spoke and my head shut up.
Ex II A series (now belongs to my wife)
 
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I figure with guns, usually want to buy new anyway.
Or like watches, buy the best vintage example you can afford and be prepared to pay the premium-condition, condition, condition.
I see nothing wrong with the OP watch, I would happy to own it, and considering it’s coming from a dealer, a 20% charge over private market isn’t unrealistic. When they are in this condition it just comes down to the taste for the patina, which I think is lovely, but doesn’t speak to the OP- which is what matters.
 
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Box & papers don’t matter to me, I can’t wear them. They are a nice to have but I personally wouldn’t put a premium over a similarly conditioned model without them. But if the intent is to keep it in a safe, then sure- box & papers matter.
 
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it looks nice but definitely I would check too with the UV light to make sure that the hands are matching the dial and they aren't luminova service hands. 6K would be safe to pay it ...especially right now!
 
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I know, I know 😬 Its the first of the 10 commandments.

1. The watch must talk to you.
2.
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I leave the other 9 for others to fill in 😁
I love this!
 
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Is it me or magnification looks off? I think crystal is aftermarket. Also, as mentioned above - it is quite over priced.
P.S. Mine says Hi.