My vintage Omega needs a replacement coil, and I want to make sure the one I have is correct.

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TLDR: I got a new vintage Omega, it runs well, is in near-mint condition, but the coil has an issue. I want to buy a compatible coil so that, if my watch/coil ever breaks, I will be prepared. The watch is a 1980 Omega DeVille. caliber 1336, 191.0096. All I need to know is if this is the correct coil and if it's compatible.
I recently bought a 1980 Omega DeVille, 191.0096, caliber 1336 for $500. Fully authentic. Near-mint condition. This watch has a flaw: The coil looks damaged or poorly repaired (see image 2), which I'm told can worsen longevity, durability, etc. It could also be nothing; it's running well, and. it may run well forever. I know nothing about movements, so, after learning about the coil, I posted about this a tad too often on a few forums. I learned a lot, and naturally. this led to me hearing conflicting opinions: t's working well, the coil isn't broken; there's just something on it, it's harmless, it's a botched job, must return, etc.

My final decision, which I made today, is to buy the replacement coil, keep wearing the watch, and only replace the coil if/when it breaks. Finding this coil is more complicated than it seems, and that's why I'm making this post.

I've been scouring the internet for this coil. On Reddit, I was shown this coil (part 9417) , and after asking around on forums and asking ChatGPT (I know, I'm sorry), it seems like a match. Since there's only one left I'm nervous: I don't want to buy it before I'm 100% sure it's compatible, but I don't want to lose the chance to give this watch a long life. I almost bought it for this reason, until one person on Reddit said that "his research" showed this was the wrong part. One person is all I need to go back, obsess some more, and lose any certainty I might've had.

So I did more digging, and I came across this website, "Cousins;" when you enter "1336" under "Omega Calibre Number," and enter "Coil" under "Swiss Part Description," it shows that 9417 is the correct component for the 1336. On Boley's website when you go to "Caliber" at the top, type "1336" and select Omega, scroll down to the coil and you'll find it listed as 1336-9417. Of course, that is good news. Then, I Googled "what coil is used in the omega caliber 1336," since it was still bugging me that someone said the 9417 is the wrong coil, even with this new info. Anyway, I clicked the first link, to a website called "Emmy Watch," typed "1336" into their search bar, clicked the top result, and under "Parts Listing," I scrolled down and clicked on "Coil." They listed the coil for the 1336 as "X/9884." This is obviously unexpected. Having tired my use of Reddit, I went to Artificial Intelligence.

If this coil IS a match, I worry that the 1336 being the slimmest watch in the family could pose a problem.

I just want to know if anyone has enough experience to tell me whether or not this will work. One Redditor says yes, one says no. ChatGPT says yes, Claude says no (then it said yes).

AI TLDR: The robots are convinced that A. The database that showed the 1336 that the company calling their 9147 equivalent "X/9884" is actually essentially no different from the "9147" at all. 2. Though there's a chance the 9147 wouldn't work with my watch, maybe due to sizing, "the most likely conclusion is that a genuine Omega 9417 coil from a 1332/1337 is compatible with an Omega Cal. 1336.

Here's what I learned from AI...
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All the AI section is doing is proving why the 9417 would work with my movement. I still want to hear from humans before I decide to buy the coil!

The most likely conclusion is that a genuine Omega 9417 coil from a 1332/1337 is compatible with an Omega Cal. 1336,
despite EmmyWatch's listing. There is a conflict between sources: Boley's calls the coil the 1336-9417, and Cousins call the coil the 9417, just with a 1332 caliber; EmmyWatch identifies the 1336 coil as X/9884. The electronic module - 9884 or X/9884 - shares the 9417 coil across all calibers. Boley showing the coil of this watch as part 9417 and EmmyWatch showing the coil as X/9884 is because of how databases are organized. This contradiction mostly fades when the data is closely examined. EmmyWatch uses X/9884 in the entire movement family, the same one that uses the 9417. If X/9884 and 9417 were different coils, one would expect many differences. The Omega Part 9417 is the designated individual copper coil for the 1332-1337 movement family, so it can directly replace a coil on an Omega using a caliber 1336. The 9417 is safe/compatible, as the 1336 is identical to the 1332 in terms of motor and electronic functions. Confirmation of this compatibility can be found in: the Omega Caliber 1332/1336/1337 Spare Parts Manual, the Jules Borel & Co. database, the Esslinger & Co. archives, and the Bestfit Encyclopedia of Watch Material.

A different AI, Claude, said this: "Based on the research, the honest answer is: the 9417 is not confirmed compatible with the Cal. 1336." He backed it up by saying that the art 9417 is listed only for Calibers 1332 and 1337. He mentioned "A knowledgeable watchmaker on the Omega forums noted that part 1332.9600 (the circuit) fits the 1332, 1333, and 1336, but was careful to say the 1337 may differ," so parts in the same family don't always work well together, given the thinner frame of the 1336 compared to the 1332/7. Claude also said "The 1336 is the slimmest in the family, and the coil sits within that movement stack, so the dimensions matter. There is an official Omega 1336 parts list document (I either couldn't find that list, or he was referring to a list on Scribd that seems useless) that would have the correct coil part number - that's really the definitive reference to check before purchasing." I later shared some of the information from the above paragraph and Claude said: 'So to give you a straight answer: "So yes - the Cal. 1337/1332 Part 9417 coil listed on eBay and elsewhere is the correct and safe replacement for your 1980 De Ville Ref. 191.0096 with Cal. 1336." This is odd to me, because I never addressed the sizing/dimensionality difference that Claude brought up, and I worry it may be an issue.
I have spent an absurd amount of time stressing/obsessing over this watch over the past 48 hours, pulling an all-nighter to write this post. This level of stress over a WATCH is crazy, but it is in line with my OCD and obsessive tendencies. Hopefully this marks the end of it.
I was also told that, despite the watch running, it uses a "high drain" 391 movement and I need the "low drain" Renata 381. Since it's cheap and easy I'm happy to do it, but if my watch works with this battery, what's the point?
Images shown: 1. Me wearing my watch 2. The movement of my watch next to the underside of the caseback 3-4. Photos of different people's Omegas with the same movement, for reference.
TLDR (again): I got a new vintage Omega, it runs well, is in near-mint condition, but the coil has an issue. I want to buy a compatible coil so that, if my watch/coil ever breaks, I will be prepared. The watch is a 1980 Omega DeVille. caliber 1336, 191.0096. All I need to know is if this is the correct coil and if it's compatible.

 
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I'd just try to hunt a donor, these calibres were so often fitted to quartz calibre helps you in that as many cases are in much rougher condition than yours, and they pop up no reserve on ebay, some were also made in gold cases and those get melted often with the dials and movements sold loose.

There are a handful of watches that use this series of calibres that are worth a lot of money like the Plongeur de Luxe ( https://stories.omegaforums.net/the-jacques-mayol-seamaster-120m/ ). They're a bit like owning an early rotary like an NSU Ro80 in that the movements are not that robust and even Omega is kind of in a place where they wish they hadn't made them given the cost of supporting them compared to old mechanical models.

If its a watch you really like I'd definitely just hunt for a donor that runs but looks rough and get a whole movement as a spare instead of purchasing individual parts.
 
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I have been doing a deep dive (way over my head.) Mostly with 1342 and related which have an unique coil.

More recently I got a 1655 equinoxe reverso. The 1655 uses a 1365 wheel train, but the service docs state the coil and rotor are different (with drawings of the difference.)

What I see in the first photo is a picture of a box. Which once contained a coil. I have ordered a few of these and usually the coil is garbage pulled from another watch. Better as dsio noted to get a donor movement.

I have not done much with AI, Other than to research something I call 'A child's history of AI.' without using AI. I have about 50 years worth of textbooks and experience. So all I see are the flaws.

With giggle one can not help the AI summery. Years ago I wrote an LCD glass tester. I had also been working on some pipe organ stuff which uses coils. So it was interesting when I looked up lavete motor, since I want to test the 1655 coil. Giggle returned some code, although left out the fly-back diodes and current limit resistors.

AI can only be as good as the websites scraped. A lot of information was proprietary. This has been intentionally destroyed scrapped or crumbled to dust. People lost jobs and livelihood over this nightmare. They do not want to remember it.

I did have a chance to place a coil into a scanner what is used for diagnosing machined parts (like automotive castings.) The scale was too small for the machine. So this is going to be a problem for AI, if the source resolution is not good enough. AI can not create information where no information exists. So plausible delusion is the result.

There is no real love for these quartz watches. For the most part the only thing what makes them interesting is the brand name, and possible family or usage history. A lot of what I see for sale is engraved with a service award commemoration.

There are a few specialist, for the most part there is no economics in these other than the entertainment value.

Before using the tester on my good (quality) coils, I wanted to test it with a scrap coil. Years ago I dismembered a swatch chronograph. Unfortunately in order to get tot he coil, and electronics I found them embedded into the plastic. I also got a few goodwill watches, again the coils and electronics are impossible to remove without destruction. Everything is in injection molded plastic, often ultrasonic welded.

Changing the battery, dusting, oiling the back pivots, and changing greasing a gasket does not make the watch run; Is about the limit that a mall kiosk service can do. I asked the local one if they could rebuild a Tissot movement I have. Since they mostly see junk, quality means nothing to them.

I tried disassembling a Seiko dual display watch, only to have the whole gear train fall out when I removed the wrong screw. An attempt to restore the train caused the gear next to the rotor to fly out. Spent the better part of Friday looking for it. Second time it reached orbit. Never to be seen again.

At least I can say I was entertained.