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Modern DateJust Case Dimensions and History?

Davidt
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Ive been looking for a modern, daily wear watch for a couple of years now and every time I think I've found a contender, I simply get attracted to the vintage models (Seamaster 300, Explorer 1 etc).

I'm now looking at a 36mm DateJust. However, I can't find details of changes made to the 36mm case in recent years.

Am I right in saying the 16xxx series are the start of the modern Datejusts, and some of these references are the transition from acrylic to sapphire crystal, as well as the 3035 movement?

It looks like these 16xxx refs still have the classic 36mm case yet some of the more moderns versions seem to have thicker lugs. Does this coincide with the 41mm DJ2 being released in parallel with the generally thicker lugs seen on Subs, GMTs etc? At what date and with what ref did the DJ attain these thicker lugs?

What I'm basically looking for is the most modern, black dial, 36mm DJ, with the classic case shape. Unfortunately Google isn't my friend here as I'm just coming up against sales sites or threads discussing the more vintage models.

Any help appreciated.
 
Dan S
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I suspect you're looking for a 162xx DJ (where the xx depends on the bezel style you prefer) with a sapphire crystal and the cal 3135. I don't know the exact dates, but they were made throughout the 90s and early 2000s for sure.
 
Davidt
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Yes so looking at it, the 16200 seems to have the smooth bezel and the 16220 the engine turned bezel.

I guess the 16234 is actually the newest model before the 12634? But, does the current 12634, 36mm DateJust have the same case dimensions or has it filled out slightly?
 
bags1971
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Like this David

16200 from 1994 sapphire crystal etc

Think the 6 digits are the thicker case
Edited:
 
20191011_131334[1].jpg
Davidt
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bags1971 bags1971
Like this David

16200 from 1994 sapphire crystal etc

Think the 6 digits are the thicker case

Yep. That has the same case as the vintage references such as the 1601 etc right?

So looks like I'm looking for a 16220 or 16234 with black dial.
 
Davidt
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I'm now torn between a used 16220/16234 or a modern 36mm DJ or even a 36mm OP.

As I'm currently on paternity leave I'm going to head into town in the next week or so to try a couple on (if they have any in stock that is!)
 
Togri v. 2.0
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The new 36mm is ref 126234 (white gold fluted bezel). The case sort of looks like the 16234 but is polished and not brushed. It also feels more robust than the 16234 dispite its slim lugs. The version in between these two, the 116234, is the one with the thick lugs.

I have the new 36mm bought this summer and it wear really really well. It is more dressy that the 16234 due to the polished case. A friend of mine has a 16234. You won’t go wrong with either of them but if money is no issue here, I would pick the new one.

A couple of pics for inspiration 😀

099D1D98-D0B9-480D-A04A-6D6D2C95E91C.jpeg 47507435-236A-4E7A-8E9D-796DEC725424.jpeg 515511C2-2C14-4181-A569-293BB8CA492C.jpeg F27EF2BF-B830-440C-81D3-2E32D135F646.jpeg C81675D8-E3A5-4DA1-A1B9-B5C79CD5C36C.jpeg
 
CoDiffe
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Togri v. 2.0 Togri v. 2.0
The new 36mm is ref 126234 (white gold fluted bezel). The case sort of looks like the 16234 but is polished and not brushed. It also feels more robust than the 16234 dispite its slim lugs. The version in between these two, the 116234, is the one with the thick lugs.

I have the new 36mm bought this summer and it wear really really well. It is more dressy that the 16234 due to the polished case. A friend of mine has a 16234. You won’t go wrong with either of them but if money is no issue here, I would pick the new one.

A couple of pics for inspiration 😀

099D1D98-D0B9-480D-A04A-6D6D2C95E91C.jpeg 47507435-236A-4E7A-8E9D-796DEC725424.jpeg 515511C2-2C14-4181-A569-293BB8CA492C.jpeg F27EF2BF-B830-440C-81D3-2E32D135F646.jpeg C81675D8-E3A5-4DA1-A1B9-B5C79CD5C36C.jpeg

really dig that DJ! Also hello my fellow lefty ::psy::
 
Dan S
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Davidt Davidt
I'm now torn between a used 16220/16234 or a modern 36mm DJ or even a 36mm OP.

As I'm currently on paternity leave I'm going to head into town in the next week or so to try a couple on (if they have any in stock that is!)

Amongst these, the specific dial and handset you find may ultimately matter more than the reference.
 
Togri v. 2.0
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CoDiffe CoDiffe
really dig that DJ! Also hello my fellow lefty ::psy::

Watch on right arm is the way to go. Looks waaaay cooler than on that weird left arm 😁
 
Davidt
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Togri v. 2.0 Togri v. 2.0
The new 36mm is ref 126234 (white gold fluted bezel). The case sort of looks like the 16234 but is polished and not brushed. It also feels more robust than the 16234 dispite its slim lugs. The version in between these two, the 116234, is the one with the thick lugs.

I have the new 36mm bought this summer and it wear really really well. It is more dressy that the 16234 due to the polished case. A friend of mine has a 16234. You won’t go wrong with either of them but if money is no issue here, I would pick the new one.

A couple of pics for inspiration 😀

099D1D98-D0B9-480D-A04A-6D6D2C95E91C.jpeg 47507435-236A-4E7A-8E9D-796DEC725424.jpeg 515511C2-2C14-4181-A569-293BB8CA492C.jpeg F27EF2BF-B830-440C-81D3-2E32D135F646.jpeg C81675D8-E3A5-4DA1-A1B9-B5C79CD5C36C.jpeg

Thanks @Togri v. 2.0, so it's the 116234 I certainly need to avoid.

Your 126234 looks great. What size wrist do you have? I really dislike the larger 41mm DJ abs they just look far too big imo. I have a 7.75" wrist so will need to decide between a 36mm or 39mm. If the 36mm end up being slightly too small I may just opt for the Explorer 1.
 
Davidt
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Dan S Dan S
Amongst these, the specific dial and handset you find may ultimately matter more than the reference.

I'm starting to realise this. For instance I'm not a fan of the double markers on the new 36mm OP, nor the Roman numerals in the minute track of some DJ.
 
Togri v. 2.0
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Davidt Davidt
Thanks @Togri v. 2.0, so it's the 116234 I certainly need to avoid.

Your 126234 looks great. What size wrist do you have? I really dislike the larger 41mm DJ abs they just look far too big imo. I have a 7.75" wrist so will need to decide between a 36mm or 39mm. If the 36mm end up being slightly too small I may just opt for the Explorer 1.

I have a 7.25-7.3 inch wrist. I like smaller watches and the 36mm is good on me. If you have a 7.75 inch I would definitely try on a 36mm DJ before buying. They wear a bit bigger than other 36mm in my opinion but if you are used to wearing 40mm or so, the 36mm can look a bit small’ish. My wife thinks the 36mm is too small on me 🙄 A 39mm Oyster Perpetual would probably be spot on for you. Here is a photo of my wrist with my father-in-laws 39mm Explorer. I usually wear a GMT or Sub at 40 but somehow the 39mm Exp wore bigger than those. Probably because of the lack of bezel. So for me I prefer the 36mm but as your wrist is a big bigger 36mm might be too small for you 😀

93701B67-AA71-4275-85E5-D56F37384067.jpeg
 
Davidt
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Togri v. 2.0 Togri v. 2.0
I have a 7.25-7.3 inch wrist. I like smaller watches and the 36mm is good on me. If you have a 7.75 inch I would definitely try on a 36mm DJ before buying. They wear a bit bigger than other 36mm in my opinion but if you are used to wearing 40mm or so, the 36mm can look a bit small’ish. My wife thinks the 36mm is too small on me 🙄 A 39mm Oyster Perpetual would probably be spot on for you. Here is a photo of my wrist with my father-in-laws 39mm Explorer. I usually wear a GMT or Sub at 40 but somehow the 39mm Exp wore bigger than those. Probably because of the lack of bezel. So for me I prefer the 36mm but as your wrist is a big bigger 36mm might be too small for you 😀

93701B67-AA71-4275-85E5-D56F37384067.jpeg

Thanks @Togri v. 2.0.

I think the E1 seems to wear bigger than expected and it looks quite large on your wrist, like you say, probably due to the lack of a bezel and large dial.

Guess I'll just have to try a load on!
 
Togri v. 2.0
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Yeah nothing for it but to try it on. On a wrist a little larger than mine, like my father-in-laws (he is probably also around 7.75”) the 39mm looks killer 😀
 
Davidt
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That's certainly what I'm thinking Patrick (although ie I have my head turned by an Exlorer 1 again).

I need to try some of these on, which is easier said than done when even the DJ's aren't always in stock.
 
ICONO
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Happy to send it over to appraise / just try on ?

Just let me know ?
 
Davidt
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Thank you for the exceptionally kind offer Patrick.

Hopefully I'll be able to get a good idea of how the various models wear at a few shops in the coming weeks/months (we've now got a newborn so this will very much be taking a back seat for a while!).

What is the ref of yours?
 
K
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The newest model is the 1262xx the model before that is the 1162xx and then your 162xx. Quality from 162xx and 1162xx is very very different. The newer ones feel a lot more solid.
 
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