Making glass gaskets on a 3d printer

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Dear watchmakers,

I am investigating if I can print glass gaskets on a 3D printer, especially what filament to use. So far I have tried PLA and ABS (Bambu) and they come out very nicely. Next to size durability is obviously what we need to have. Shape is very nice and I could put these in the middle case and press the glass in. So so far so good. But will it shrink in due time, will it do well if getting exposed to water for a longer period. In short many questions. Printing in Peek or Delrin is for these highly technical materials outside the capabilities of my printer.

Any one tried this before and care to share his experience and with what type of filament?

br

Ron
 
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As second thought, there is some hytrel filament from chemille but there so many variations, over 80, so very difficult to make anneducated guess. I have some TPU on order and the special TPU feeder for the Bambu on the way so I will give that a go to.
 
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Modern gaskets I believe are TPC-ET or PTFE, none of which are possible to 3D print. The closer cousins are TPC, which prints like TPU, and Polypropylene, which is a pain to print. Neither are particularly expensive though, and you could print such a small part in PP even without a chamber heater.

I don't think it's even worth experimenting, since gaskets are freely available, and yours will never be as good. But if you've set your mind on it, PLA, PETG, and ABS are too stiff. You probably need some 98A TPU, stiff but with some give. It's even a little easier to print than 95A or softer.
 
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Thank you. Unfortunately the gaskets you can buy outside the big brands often are a different size compared to what Cousins or other big houses sell. F.e. an Oris has a nice glass in the caseback with a circular print. The gaskets size which fits the case back is 0.3 mm thick and the sternkreuz Cousins sells is .35, so this simply does not work. Today I had a nice vintage Tissot with a square glass with rounder corners. Impossible to source a new one.
So printing is my only option.
I found out the PLA, PETg and possible the ABS are bit stiff.
So when the TPU from Bambu (95) is in and the PP too can make some progress. Printing with the TPU unit from Bambu: I hope to find out it is relatively easy with this extra tool and a real clean nozzle. My H2C has a heated chamber, so another element I can tune to get the best setup.
 
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Makes sense now. For those edge cases it's certainly a useful toolset to have.

The H2 series should do fine with PP. I've seen some pretty big test prints come out with very minimal warping. For a small part it should have 0 issues.

I have a P2S so those are out of my range. Either way, keep us posted with your results.
 
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I have been getting decent results cutting watch hands out of tuna can steel with the fiber laser.

One idea I have is to try something with Silicone RTV. Might be possible to print the mold then cast the gasket.

I did once run some silicon RTV spillage scrap through the CO2 laser to see If I could cut a circle into it. Who knows what gasses I poisoned myself with.

Did cut a case ring adapter in acrylic as well as battery adapter. Acrylic though is really brittle.

For manufactures to restrict consumables like crystals and gaskets is downright mean. Pure greed. Kodak tried this with the one hour photo finishers and went bankrupt. So greedy they wanted to do away with the mall kiosks. Although I do collect surplus APS and PhotoCD stuff when I can.
 
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I was dealing with a similar problem when trying to replace nylon crystal gaskets. I also tried a combination print, using harder PLA at the bottom and softer TPU building up around the crystal (to allow more give and thus better sealing properties). The materials actually bonded together quite well, but ultimately I was never able to achieve the results I was looking for.
Next step would be to print a mold and pour nylon gaskets but I didn't come to it yet.
 
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I typically see 2 materials specified for things like crystal seals. One is Asutane, and the other is Hytrel 7246.
 
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I typically see 2 materials specified for things like crystal seals. One is Asutane, and the other is Hytrel 7246.
That's interesting. Hytrel 7246 is TPC-ET with a 72 Shore D hardness. There's 72D TPU which should in theory be closer to that Hytrel, but that thing costs like $70 per roll.

Had never heard of Asutane. Seems to be a special formula of TPU and roughly the same properties as Hytrel.
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