Looking for opinions on the Omega Cosmic 2000 166.136

Posts
1,242
Likes
1,252
My Omega certified watchmaker has a ~1972 Omega Cosmic 2000 for sale. Reference 166.136 with a blue dial. Case is 38mm. It looks like the watch shown below but that's something I found on the internet, it's not the exact same watch. The watch has been freshly serviced and the case and bracelet refinished to Omega standards. The dial looks excellent. No signs of refinishing but it also doesn't have any obvious freckles or oxidation. The indices have a slight amount of oxidation.

I had a few questions as I don't normally wade into the vintage waters. I don't need advice on price as I've been able to research that myself.

  • Is the Omega 1020 movement reliable? It's just been serviced but is this movement likely to stay in working order?
  • Is this a watch I can reliably wear every day or would it best be reserved for limited wear? If the latter, I'll probably pass on this watch.
  • Does the professional refinish kill the value of the watch? Personally, I don't mind it but I know on a vintage Rolex it would be a huge negative.
  • Are there any questions I should ask of the watchmaker?

Thanks!

 
Posts
2,426
Likes
2,578
  • Is the Omega 1020 movement reliable? It's just been serviced but is this movement likely to stay in working order?
Yep, these are great movements! A 'bit' 'cheaper' made than the previous generation of movements (ala 550/600/750) thanks to quartz crisis, but from what I've seen, these are still quite solid movements.

  • Is this a watch I can reliably wear every day or would it best be reserved for limited wear? If the latter, I'll probably pass on this watch.
I see no reason why one of these couldn't be worn every day.


  • Does the professional refinish kill the value of the watch? Personally, I don't mind it but I know on a vintage Rolex it would be a huge negative.
I don't think these are NEARLY collectable enough for that to matter. It MIGHT harm the value a bit, but I don't think anyone is 'collecting' these in a way that this would matter.

  • Are there any questions I should ask of the watchmaker?
I'd ask for some photos of the movement and inside of the case, if only to look for rotor rub. I'd also ask for photos of the day/date indicators, as they aren't particularly visible, but marks on them can be VERY annoying when you wear it. I had a watch that was flawless except a missing piece of paint on the 12 that annoyed the crap out of me 馃榿 I avoided wearing it in the middle of the month until I passed it on.

Also, timegrapher results, you'd expect an amplitude in excess of 250 degrees (@52 lift angle) to make sure it was serviced healthily (AND that the trace looks 'reasonable'), but frankly I'd expect a watchmaker you trust to not need to have this question asked.

IMO, these are great wearable watches that can be had for a pretty darn reasonable price. The Omega 10XX IS a 'reduced cost' movement, but IMO, not in any way that would stop me from wearing one (unlike some Longines/etc movements of the era).
 
Posts
1,242
Likes
1,252
  • Is the Omega 1020 movement reliable? It's just been serviced but is this movement likely to stay in working order?
Yep, these are great movements! A 'bit' 'cheaper' made than the previous generation of movements (ala 550/600/750) thanks to quartz crisis, but from what I've seen, these are still quite solid movements.

  • Is this a watch I can reliably wear every day or would it best be reserved for limited wear? If the latter, I'll probably pass on this watch.
I see no reason why one of these couldn't be worn every day.


  • Does the professional refinish kill the value of the watch? Personally, I don't mind it but I know on a vintage Rolex it would be a huge negative.
I don't think these are NEARLY collectable enough for that to matter. It MIGHT harm the value a bit, but I don't think anyone is 'collecting' these in a way that this would matter.

  • Are there any questions I should ask of the watchmaker?
I'd ask for some photos of the movement and inside of the case, if only to look for rotor rub. I'd also ask for photos of the day/date indicators, as they aren't particularly visible, but marks on them can be VERY annoying when you wear it. I had a watch that was flawless except a missing piece of paint on the 12 that annoyed the crap out of me 馃榿 I avoided wearing it in the middle of the month until I passed it on.

Also, timegrapher results, you'd expect an amplitude in excess of 250 degrees (@52 lift angle) to make sure it was serviced healthily (AND that the trace looks 'reasonable'), but frankly I'd expect a watchmaker you trust to not need to have this question asked.

IMO, these are great wearable watches that can be had for a pretty darn reasonable price. The Omega 10XX IS a 'reduced cost' movement, but IMO, not in any way that would stop me from wearing one (unlike some Longines/etc movements of the era).

Thanks. I had already asked him to run a Witschi time report on it and I'm awaiting that. He knows I'm particular about accuracy and he knows I have my own timegrapher so I'm 99% certain he would not have suggested this model to me if it was running poorly.

With respect to refinishing, your answer is what I expected. Personally, I like the refinish because it was done well with the proper training and the proper lapping wheels and other tools. But I know some vintage hunters would not touch an obviously refinished watch with a barge pole.
 
Posts
2,426
Likes
2,578
Thanks. I had already asked him to run a Witschi time report on it and I'm awaiting that. He knows I'm particular about accuracy and he knows I have my own timegrapher so I'm 99% certain he would not have suggested this model to me if it was running poorly.

With respect to refinishing, your answer is what I expected. Personally, I like the refinish because it was done well with the proper training and the proper lapping wheels and other tools. But I know some vintage hunters would not touch an obviously refinished watch with a barge pole.
I have my similar movement Seamaster Chrono 176.007 that changed my mind on the refinishing. I sent it back to Omega to get it serviced, and they replaced basically everything. It went from a watch that I had to be careful with, to one that I could wear just like any other watch. SO the replacement of a ton of parts MIGHT have reduced its value to collectors, but made it worth 100x more to me, since I can wear it.

And at that point... thats the important bit, right?
 
Posts
1,242
Likes
1,252
Also, timegrapher results, you'd expect an amplitude in excess of 250 degrees (@52 lift angle) to make sure it was serviced healthily (AND that the trace looks 'reasonable'), but frankly I'd expect a watchmaker you trust to not need to have this question asked.
Amplitude is 280 horizontal and 250 vertical. Rate is +5 s/d, with virtually no beat error (0.0, 0.1, or 0.2 in the various positions). For a watch from ~1972 that's pretty good.

I would buy the watch but I have so many watches that don't get enough wrist time that it seems like a foolish purchase. I want to reduce my collection, not add to it. But my watchmaker knows I'm a sucker for a blue dial Omega.
 
Posts
2,426
Likes
2,578
Amplitude is 280 horizontal and 250 vertical. Rate is +5 s/d, with virtually no beat error (0.0, 0.1, or 0.2 in the various positions). For a watch from ~1972 that's pretty good.

I would buy the watch but I have so many watches that don't get enough wrist time that it seems like a foolish purchase. I want to reduce my collection, not add to it. But my watchmaker knows I'm a sucker for a blue dial Omega.
馃榿 Well, sounds like a real nice watch, but I definitely understand not wanting to grow the collection 馃榾
 
Posts
173
Likes
1,189
In terms of the refinish, if you prefer it that way that's the main thing. As far as anyone else is concerned it doesn't make much difference, it's not going to make you a millionaire.

As @ErichKeane says, I'd want to see the movement and I'd want to see the whole day/date wheels - either in person or video.
 
Posts
1,242
Likes
1,252
Thanks. If I'm ready to buy I'll have him show me the movement and cycle through the day and date wheels first.

Is there anything in particular to look for with the movement? Other than it possibly looking like it was dragged behind a car?
 
Posts
2,426
Likes
2,578
Thanks. If I'm ready to buy I'll have him show me the movement and cycle through the day and date wheels first.

Is there anything in particular to look for with the movement? Other than it possibly looking like it was dragged behind a car?
Not really, just matching finishes (though replaced bridges aren't a big deal here), and 'not dirty looking'.
 
Posts
13,384
Likes
23,232
I like these. The blue dials can age really nicely.

But, don鈥檛 overpay, they鈥檙e not hugely valuable.
 
Posts
173
Likes
1,189
Yes, not dirty and things generally looking like they've aged together, although replacement parts aren't a deal-breaker.
 
Posts
555
Likes
2,160
Make sure you like the look and feel of the integrated bracelet. That's one of the potential downsides of this kind of case.
 
Posts
1,242
Likes
1,252
Make sure you like the look and feel of the integrated bracelet. That's one of the potential downsides of this kind of case.
I love it actually.