It's a Sunday night and I've nothing better to do than to contemplate watches ...

Yesterday, I was offered a Jean Richard Aquastar. The watch would date 1959-61, my guess is the latter. Case is fine; bezel is heavily marked; I understand these were powered by an AS movement. There are no photographs of the watch and the seller didn't want to let me open it to inspect. She's a runner, after a fashion.

However, the price was pretty cheap so there's room in there to service and repair as needed and still be on top.

The thing is, I know nothing of the company, its history or the watch. I certainly have no idea how easily a replacement bezel would be to find. Can anyone give me a run down on the company and the watch? It doesn't seem to be much discussed on the interwebs, though the watches appear quite desirable and this one is far from unattractive.

 

The following is mostly just subjective personal opinion from someone with an interest in vintage divers. These are nice watches with a place in diver watch history; people often mention the patented bi-directional bezel. Because they are small and the cases are utilitarian, they have remained affordable so they can be a good entry into vintage divers. Despite what you sometimes read, I don't find they are incredibly rare (although they are much less common than the Duward Aquastar with internal bezel), however, they often have various parts replaced, especially hands and crowns. Personally, I would not buy one that is incorrect or needs restoration, so check out all the parts carefully. I hope this helps and that you can post some photos.

Here is a short write-up from a different forum: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f11/jeanrichard-aquastar-aquastar-deepstar-history-request-2604562.html

 

Certainly helps. The watch is very original, just with some nasty, quite deep, scuffs on the bezel. To me, particularly on a dive watch, bezels are incredibly important ... that's what was putting me off and making me think twice.

 

But the bezel is solid unpainted steel right? So it's not quite as bad as if it were a colored bezel that was discolored by a scratch. Still, I probably wouldn't buy it if I couldn't live with the bezel.

 

Yes, same as the one linked below (not my image, but a similar one currently being offered for sale):

https://vintagewatchfever.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Aquastar-1.jpg

 

Yes, nice dial. But as I was saying, you can see that crown isn't right.

 

Yes, that image was just to clarify the model. As I say, the one I looked at was all original (signed crown) just a little rough around the edges.

 

Got it.

 

Is the crystal original? In the majority of them was replaced...

Here is mine (currently away for service), completely original:

 

I'm not sure. Is it just the cyclops that's the giveaway or is it otherwise marked?

 

Don't have the watch with me right now but I don't remember any other mark beside the cyclops. The cyclops has a very specific shape, not easy to find a replacement.

If the price is good (I don't know what is a good price on these nowadays) the crystal wouldn't bother me to much but is always good to know...

 

The price is good. Just that bezel that isn't. As I say, the owner didn't want to let me open the watch, so I walked away and suggested he think about it. That said, if the movement is a rusted hulk, the AS movements aren't hard to get. I think (in fact I'm sure) that I have complete balances for them already.

 

Very appealing example!

 

Folks, thanks for your pointers last weekend.

Bottom line is that I knocked the seller down £50 and bought the watch. A run down on condition: the case, caseback and even seal are all good. There's a knock on one lug but it's not major. The dial has faded nicely (for whatever reason it shows really uneven in photos but in person it is a consistent grey/sparkle); the printing is good throughout. Lume's gone a nice grey/green. The movement is all there, fully signed and intact but absolutely filthy. To the bad points: there's a scar on the bezel from the 30 to the right - that needs real attention. The handset seems mismatched - this is the real question I have which will come to in a moment. Glass is original without any major scratches and should polish well. Crown has bubbled and lost its cap - we'll need a replacement.

Here she is, in "as found" condition:

In my fruitless search for parts, I turned up the ad here:

It seems I have the correct lollipop seconds hand and the correct hour hand (though there is lume loss). The minute hand looks like a replacement from the later Triton model if I'm reading this right. It's too "heavy" and gives the watch an unbalanced look. I've no doubt I can find something similar to the original but I'm looking for a correct handset if possible - does anyone have one that's going spare or have a lead to pick one up? It doesn't need to be a complete handset, I'm just missing that minute hand. The rest can be cleaned and refilled.

Please shout out with any comments or info. I'm pretty sure this is a diamond in the rough rather than me attempting to polish a turd.

 

Nice catch! I can't really say what the dial looks like based on the photo. Is it dial or crystal that has whitish dots?

Hand could be difficult to source but maybe you have more luck. I have been looking for a while for a nice pair of hands since the ones on my watch are relumed. I have now decided that I will colour match the hands with the dial instead since they are original.

Anyhow, good luck and here is the photo om my Aquastar 60. Really nice watches in my opinion. Nice size for my wrist and great early divers design.

 

Thanks @Kapka

The white spots on the photo are odd - it doesn't look like that in the flesh. My best guess is minor pitting all over the plexi that's refracting light in a way the camera picks up but the eye doesn't. Anyway, refilling and colour matching the hands on this might be the best option but it'd be nice to get the original shape.

 

Usually the crystal can be polished quite nice with some sand paper and polywatch unless it is cracked. Works almost on all vintage plexi crystals.

 

Yes, thanks - S.O.P.

 

Hi guys. Just found this thread. I won an auction of this watch yesterday. Now when I read here I am a bit afraid that the hands are not original? What do you think?

 

Yeah, hands, crystal and crown are replacements. It looks pretty polished too but the photo's so over-exposed, that's more guess than fact.

The thing about these watches is that they were used. The original skin diver, before anyone came up with the name. As such, they were damaged but also regularly serviced. Simon Freese did his apprenticeship (is that the right word?) with these. However, even though he has contacts, there are no parts available for them. As such you're looking at the second hand (no pun intended) market.

If possible, just an appropriate crown and glass would completely change its look.