Is this vintage virgin grasping at straws?

Ok, so I've read the great collecting advice contained on this fabulous forum and ignored it. In my defence, I'd read so much over the last few days that my sluggish brain was not ticking at optimum efficiency, and at 4.00 o'clock in the morning bid on this Polerouter without any real research like crazed gambler going all in.

Here's the incoming UG Polerouter "Jet" I bid on:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universa...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

After doing post-payment research in the hard light of day, my biggest concern is that I may have paid too much for a franken or a very poor redial. Feel free to be brutally honest. I learn best from making mistakes. 👍

I believe the "Jet" came out with the Cal. 215 microrotor, however, the timeline ( http://www.polerouter.de/frameset-timeline.htm) appears to show that bumpers were installed in the Polerouter de luxe up until 1957, and the Jet was released in '56. Is it possible that bumpers were installed in the earlier "Jets"?

On the same website, the author writes:
"The movement used in the early Polarouter and Polerouter models was the caliber 138 SS. It was introduced by Universal Genève in 1948, first as cal. 138 with a subsidiary second and then with a central second as cal. 138 SS and with date indication as cal. 138 moondate.....Despite the precision and reliability that was proven on duty for SAS, the movement was replaced by the famous "Microtor" movement after approximately one year of production".
Does this imply that after the Polerouter came out in 1948, UG swapped over to the microtor in 1949??!!! I'm a little confused because the timeline shows that bumpers were installed until '57.


Thoughts & Questions About the Case and Dial

Case condition: I'm used to modern watches. I usually prefer mint condition watches and am holding judgement on the advice I've read to avoid (over) polishing and/or the installation of redials as devaluing vintage watches. This will be my first experience of whether I can live with wearing a watch with an obvious patina of age, which I'm slowly beginning to appreciate. What do you guys think?
Should I have spent more money on a restored or "newer" looking example?

The Crown: I looked at similar bumper models and the bulbous crown appears to be in line with what was used with earlier bumper movements.

The Case-back: Does the case-back look legit for a bumper model?

The Dial: The crosshairs on the dial appeared to be thicker than on most of the Polerouters I saw, however, there were some models that have displayed "thicker" crosshairs on the dial. Would these have also been redials? If this is a redial, would you advise hunting down a replacement dial more in keeping with this model? I

BTW, is this the definition of "redial" - to use a different dial from a different watch? (I've seen some members refer to poorly re-painted dials as a "redials", which I would call a (clumsy) "restorations".


What Have I Learned?

1) Know what you want and research.
2) Be patient. Good deals will come along at a price you are willing to pay.
3) Be wary of eBay listings with less than informative pics. (Disclaimer: however, I have bought great items that could have received more bids if the seller was a better photographer)
4) Make sure there is a movement shot!
5) Listen to the wisdom of others that have gone before you.

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

Ben

The microrotor was patented in 1954 and introduced to the public in 1957. No company made them before then.

Thanks for all the information, guys.

I'll search out a more age appropriate dial to install in the watch prior to getting it serviced.
As collectors, would you recommend doing this if the rest of the watch is original? Or would you offload it and get a better one?

I'm a designer by trade, good with my hands, and have some experience in screen printing. I may have a go at doing at a "redial" . 👍

Have any of you attempted this? If so are there any links you could provide that could assist in this challenge.

Just saw the Polerouter Daniel sold in August. C'est dommage. 🙁

What's the going rate for a decent Polerouter these days?

It's worthwhile to spend the extra money to get a correct original watch in mint condition. Buying project watches ends up being more expensive for a lesser example. Only buy substandard watches for parts.

Thanks for the advice, Dennis.

Hmmm...I'll see what it's like and flip it for a better one.