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Is this vintage virgin grasping at straws?

  1. kalachakra Nov 7, 2013

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    Ok, so I've read the great collecting advice contained on this fabulous forum and ignored it. In my defence, I'd read so much over the last few days that my sluggish brain was not ticking at optimum efficiency, and at 4.00 o'clock in the morning bid on this Polerouter without any real research like crazed gambler going all in.

    Here's the incoming UG Polerouter "Jet" I bid on:
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universa...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557Purchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network

    After doing post-payment research in the hard light of day, my biggest concern is that I may have paid too much for a franken or a very poor redial. Feel free to be brutally honest. I learn best from making mistakes. :thumbsup:

    I believe the "Jet" came out with the Cal. 215 microrotor, however, the timeline ( http://www.polerouter.de/frameset-timeline.htm) appears to show that bumpers were installed in the Polerouter de luxe up until 1957, and the Jet was released in '56. Is it possible that bumpers were installed in the earlier "Jets"?

    On the same website, the author writes:
    "The movement used in the early Polarouter and Polerouter models was the caliber 138 SS. It was introduced by Universal Genève in 1948, first as cal. 138 with a subsidiary second and then with a central second as cal. 138 SS and with date indication as cal. 138 moondate.....Despite the precision and reliability that was proven on duty for SAS, the movement was replaced by the famous "Microtor" movement after approximately one year of production".
    Does this imply that after the Polerouter came out in 1948, UG swapped over to the microtor in 1949??!!! I'm a little confused because the timeline shows that bumpers were installed until '57.


    Thoughts & Questions About the Case and Dial

    Case condition: I'm used to modern watches. I usually prefer mint condition watches and am holding judgement on the advice I've read to avoid (over) polishing and/or the installation of redials as devaluing vintage watches. This will be my first experience of whether I can live with wearing a watch with an obvious patina of age, which I'm slowly beginning to appreciate. What do you guys think?
    Should I have spent more money on a restored or "newer" looking example?

    The Crown: I looked at similar bumper models and the bulbous crown appears to be in line with what was used with earlier bumper movements.

    The Case-back: Does the case-back look legit for a bumper model?

    The Dial: The crosshairs on the dial appeared to be thicker than on most of the Polerouters I saw, however, there were some models that have displayed "thicker" crosshairs on the dial. Would these have also been redials? If this is a redial, would you advise hunting down a replacement dial more in keeping with this model? I

    BTW, is this the definition of "redial" - to use a different dial from a different watch? (I've seen some members refer to poorly re-painted dials as a "redials", which I would call a (clumsy) "restorations".


    What Have I Learned?

    1) Know what you want and research.
    2) Be patient. Good deals will come along at a price you are willing to pay.
    3) Be wary of eBay listings with less than informative pics. (Disclaimer: however, I have bought great items that could have received more bids if the seller was a better photographer)
    4) Make sure there is a movement shot!
    5) Listen to the wisdom of others that have gone before you.

    Thanks in advance for your feedback!

    Ben
     
  2. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Nov 7, 2013

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    I'll deal with your questions as best I can:

    Um, no. You have a regular Polerouter with a bumper movement. Probably from 1955-56.

    There may have been some UG's made with the Microrotor prior to its introduction to the Polerouters in 1957. If so, I don't know when that occurred.

    Yes, I think so.

    Yes it does, although it could be a factory correct replacement. It looks newer than the rest of the watch.


    A redial is a process where the original finish on the dial is stripped down to the bare metal. The dial is then repainted and then the dial pattern is printed over the new paint. The problem with this is that every dial maker (and the Swiss watch companies used dozens of them) had their own process and dies. Most of these details were lost as these companies went out of business, merged with others or updated their production methods.

    As a result 99.999% of redials of Swiss watches have details that look nothing like the originals. American watches are a totally different story as a few of the original contractors still exist and still have the old dies and processes in place.

    Hope this helps,
    gatorcpa
     
  3. LouS Mrs Nataf's Other Son Staff Member Nov 7, 2013

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    Ben, I'm afraid your concern is very well founded - this is a horrible redial. It's not just a matter of the crosshairs. Look at the printing overall - it looks indistinct and smudged. This is what's known as "over-inked" and one of the signs of a poor redial.
     
  4. ulackfocus Nov 7, 2013

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    The microrotor was patented in 1954 and introduced to the public in 1957. No company made them before then.
     
  5. Tony C. Ωf Jury member Nov 7, 2013

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    and by Buren, not UG.
     
  6. kalachakra Nov 8, 2013

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    Thanks for all the information, guys.

    I'll search out a more age appropriate dial to install in the watch prior to getting it serviced.
    As collectors, would you recommend doing this if the rest of the watch is original? Or would you offload it and get a better one?

    I'm a designer by trade, good with my hands, and have some experience in screen printing. I may have a go at doing at a "redial" . :thumbsup:

    Have any of you attempted this? If so are there any links you could provide that could assist in this challenge.

    Just saw the Polerouter Daniel sold in August. C'est dommage. :(

    What's the going rate for a decent Polerouter these days?
     
  7. ulackfocus Nov 8, 2013

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    It's worthwhile to spend the extra money to get a correct original watch in mint condition. Buying project watches ends up being more expensive for a lesser example. Only buy substandard watches for parts.
     
  8. kalachakra Nov 8, 2013

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    Thanks for the advice, Dennis.
     
  9. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Nov 8, 2013

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    Or if they're rare and deserve saving, which this one really isn't :(
     
  10. kalachakra Nov 8, 2013

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    Hmmm...I'll see what it's like and flip it for a better one.