Owning a few different iterations of the Seamaster, I tire of the size discussion. The size discussion around the older “Peter Blake” Seamaster models like the 2254.50 versus the newer ceramic Seamaster Professionals tends to get exaggerated, to put it mildly.
Yes, modern Seamasters wear thicker and heavier. No argument there. But when you actually look at the numbers, the differences aren’t nearly as dramatic as the language suggests. We’re generally talking about a millimeter or so, not a completely different class of watch.
What has changed is how that thickness is distributed. Omega moved to:
- Ceramic bezel inserts - which require a thicker, more rigid support structure
-Ceramic dials - physically thicker than traditional metal dials
- A higher handset stack - driven by dial thickness
-Taller crystals - to clear the hands
All of that adds height above the bracelet line, which is why the watch wears thicker even if the underlying movement architecture hasn’t changed much.
The diameter discussion follows the same pattern. Most were fine with ~40–41 mm divers 20 years ago, and now a watch grows a millimeter - depending on how it’s measured - and it’s suddenly described as huge. That perception shift isn’t unique to Omega either.
Take the aforementioned Submariner. The Rolex Submariner 16610 versus the Rolex Submariner 126610 are very close on paper - roughly a 1 mm change in diameter and similar overall thickness - yet people still say the modern version wears larger. That comes down to broader lugs, ceramic bezel presence, and proportion changes, not a dramatic increase in raw size.
The same idea applies here. On thickness, you’ll see different percentages or comparisons thrown around depending on how people are measuring, i.e., edge of the crystal versus the center, what’s included in case height, and so on. However you frame it, you’re still ultimately dealing with roughly a millimeter or so of actual difference.
At that point, whether it’s 10%, 18%, or 20% isn’t really the important part. The bigger factor is how the watch is built - and where that added height sits - which is what drives the on-wrist feel.
This wasn’t arbitrary. The market pushed toward:
- More “premium” materials
- Better long-term scratch resistance
- More visual presence
Ceramic delivers on that, but it comes with structural trade-offs. You don’t get those materials in the same proportions as early 2000s aluminum and brass builds. If someone prefers the slimmer, more cuff-friendly feel of the older models, that’s completely fair. But framing modern Seamasters as if Omega is simply making bigger and bigger watches misses what actually changed. The difference is mostly materials and proportion, not a dramatic increase in size just for size's sake.
I want a Seamaster that goes back to original materials and then maybe we can judge Omega's design prowess and design direction. I hope they will go back to older proportions.
Fair points.
However the latest Seamaster iteration (the no date with aluminum bezel/dial) is 42mm. By your reasoning, this watch could have been made smaller. While I enjoy this watch, if it was smaller (38mm to 40mm), I would have bought it without reservation.
Clearly, they just slapped some new parts into the existing design. These "new" Seamasters aren't actually that new or different. I did say the new Seamaster is bigger and heavier, primarily because of material choices driven by the market, it was also a design choice. Omega still has to want to make a smaller watch. It's not like these gigantic Seamasters aren't selling, though.
WHY, oh WHY?, they decided to make it 42 instead of 41?, who decided?, so we can find him a have a little talk...I am convinced that ´small´ decision have hurt Omega...and I like my Nekton 42mm
WHY, oh WHY?, they decided to make it 42 instead of 41?, who decided?, so we can find him a have a little talk...I am convinced that ´small´ decision have hurt Omega...and I like my Nekton 42mm
I think what is preventing Omega from selling more watches are certain design choices
however smaller watches are more difficult to make and require more technological ingenuity.
I think what is preventing Omega from selling more watches are certain design choices.
I think what is preventing Omega from selling more watches are certain design choices.
Omega makes watches on the bigger side (both diameter and thickness). Some people want smaller watches. I for one, would buy more Seamasters, Tresors, Globemasters, etc. if they offered models that were smaller. Obviously there are design language/features/materials issues that are also preventing Omega from regaining a more dominant position, however smaller watches are more difficult to make and require more technological ingenuity.
Rolex is frustrating in that they are hard to get. Omega is frustrating in that they are not making the watches they could, but choose not to.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ceramic) vs Rolex Submariner 126610
Case diameter
Omega - 42 mm
Rolex - 41 mm
Thickness
Omega - ~13.5–13.7 mm
Rolex - ~12.2–12.5 mm
Lug width
Omega - 20 mm
Rolex - 21 mm
Lug-to-lug
Omega - ~50 mm
Rolex - ~48 mm
Weight on bracelet
Omega - ~190 g
Rolex - ~155 g
Heavier, yes, for sure, absolutely. It's not like the Seamaster is some outlier of a behemoth, though. It wears differently, it's not a Submariner. There is no more technical ingenuity required to make a Submariner than a Seamaster, it's also not more difficult. It's another odd argument about nothing like too large of a catalog.
The 124060 is ~40.5mm bezel diameter.
Sadly, modern Omega designs are trash - chasing the chav segment
I don't know what this even means, but I'm sure most people don't agree.
however smaller watches are more difficult to make and require more technological ingenuity
guys...don´t look to the dimensions of the new GS USHIO diver, we will need a place to cry all together...
Edit: lol. It's 12,500 euros for a GS. Would you all really pay that much for an Omega Seamaster professional with similar dimensions? 😆
The reason is simple - they can then reduce the watch by a whopping 1 mm, announce it as the greatest thing in history, and all the fanboys will swoon and yell "praise be!" at the tops of their lungs...
