I’m on a plane headed to Istanbul.

Hagia Sophia was an orthodox church that turks made it a mosque after they took
over the city and chased the greek citizens of Istanbul.
The name is Agia Sophia from greek language that means saint Sophia.
Enjoy Istanbul and your holidays.

I'll echo the other suggestions, and some of the usual "touristy" sites are quite relaxing when there aren't a lot of people. The cisterns were under restoration last time I went (last year), so it wasn't quite the experience it was before with all the noise of jackhammers and everything. They've probably finished up by now though.

Food-wise, some great options are Karaköy Lokantası and Sahrap Restaurant, but it really depends on which part of the city you happen to be in. You can also get some really good fish cooked up fresh at the fish market right off the Galata bridge. Coffee-wise, you can find Turkish coffee pretty much everywhere, but Mandabatmaz is the only one I tried that's pretty good. If you're in the neighborhood of Gravity Coffee, you should try them as well, they're very good for drip/espresso coffee. Another is Coffeetopia if you're near the market. For Turkish delights, my favorite by far was Haci Bekir.

I think if you're an aware traveller, it's not so dangerous. Just don't walk around with a map looking confused. 😉

Lots of recommendations above. Enjoy!!!!!

It’s an embarrassment of riches, recommendation wise. Thanks everyone, huge help. Enjoying it here very much already.

@sjg22 I made a reservation at Mikla last week to be sure we had a table. ;-)

Just FYI I’m at the Pera Palace Hotel in Karaköy. Cool area.

It's been some time that I have been in Istanbul so memories can be wrong. If I remember well, in the area south of Istiklal Caddesi there were some artisans and small shops.

I just want to say that the breadth of knowledge and experience on this forum is incredible. Where else can you ask for information about a place like Istanbul and get so many prompt / helpful answers?

To really get a comprehensive feel for the city try to catch up on the history of the Byzantine Empire and Ottoman Empire. You’ll thus experience the ciy in a whole new dimension.

OK. Istanbul is amazing. I want to share some photos from my trip. And I will next week, but I’m heading home now in love with the people and the beauty of this city. Thanks again to everyone for all the many helpful hints and tips. Your efforts were not wasted.

Oh, and how crazy is it that our hotel had a Bible in the drawer? And that I’d actually feel like reading it. 😗

I want to recommend/endorse the Turkish Bath experience as pretty amazing. I had a pretty messed up back at the start of this trip, and somehow this 220 pound guy cracking and pounding on it actually made it better. The ambiance of this 300 year old bathhouse (still a startup, on the timeline of bathhouses here!) was otherworldly to me. I felt under the shadow of the countless soldiers, sailors and merchants who had unwound here over the centuries, having just lost or made their fortunes. It's like stepping back into time. As a bonus, you will be made damn clean.

I met so many amazing people. A lot of young people, driving their own businesses, optimistic and so incredibly friendly and open. I don't want to gloss over the political problems or recent trend toward authoritarianism that is troubling - but what a cool city. My wife has a business trip planned here for November and I've already decided I'm tagging along.

Attached are some photos I took - mostly candid, and just scenes/people I saw on the street. But a few portraits as well.

The thread title sounds like an opening sentence to a great spy novel! Looks like you had a great time!

Nice pictures.

Tip for your next trip to Istanbul (or whoever else is about to go there): My turkish friend and business partner took me to very original and authentic place for breakfast first time I was in Istanbul. Kale Cafe at Rumelihisari. It is one of his most favourite places. He personally goes there with his wife and kids for decades. I think he goes there every sunday morning. Kind of a family ritual. It is tiny and modest place. We were greeted by the owner, very humble man. It was one of the most authentic experience from Istanbul that I remember. Food was very delicious. If you dont like over-exposed sites and prefer to try local vibe, that would be decent choice. Not to forget, it is close to bridge and Bosphorus.