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I'm Looking to add a vintage square watch to my collection - advice please?

  1. Retiredmajor Jan 15, 2023

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    Like the title says........I've been looking but it seems like a difficult item to search for.....I'm open to brand. Any advice? Thanks in advance, Major.
     
  2. Larry S Color Commentator for the Hyperbole. Jan 15, 2023

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    I’d look at Universal Geneve. They made some classic square chronographs. Also not quite square but the JLC reverso is always a good choice. Some of the old TAG Monaco?
     
  3. Retiredmajor Jan 15, 2023

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    Thanks! I use the word SQUARE, but i guess I'm including rectangular as well...... Major
     
  4. marcn Enough space to say witty Jan 15, 2023

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    Cartier Tank also worth researching. But there’s a huge style divide between that and say a Tag Monaco as @Larry S suggested, with both sort of fitting your criteria.
     
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  5. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Jan 15, 2023

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    Hamiltons from 1920’s through the 1940’s. No one has a better selection of square and rectangular watches. A typical catalog:

    [​IMG]
    https://vintagewatchforums.com/viewforum.php?f=21&start=20

    The Grade 987 and 982 movements were among the finest made by any manufacturer anywhere.
    gatorcpa
     
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  6. Larry S Color Commentator for the Hyperbole. Jan 15, 2023

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    Here is an example from the UG line….You do have to have a good watchmaker at your back with these old birds.
    1FA37F9E-C5BE-40A0-B0B3-B39128AEE2B1.jpeg
     
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  7. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Jan 15, 2023

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    The difference between the Hamiltons and that Universal is that the Hamiltons are not made of unobtainium.

    You can find examples of most of the Hamiltons for $500 and under. A bit more for solid gold.

    What’s entry level for a rectangular Compur like that?
    gatorcpa
     
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  8. Retiredmajor Jan 15, 2023

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    Thank you....my problem is finding them...$500 and under is perfect for me. I see some on ebay, but that feels like a crap shoot to me. I'd like to find some on this site as I feel I'd get honest value. Major
     
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  9. Retiredmajor Jan 15, 2023

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  10. __ryan__ Jan 15, 2023

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    Here’s a site that you can peruse for vintage Hamilton:

    https://www.vintagehamilton.com/

    I’m not sure about the pricing there — bound to be some premium. But it may help you scope out what you like.
     
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  11. Retiredmajor Jan 15, 2023

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    Very helpful...thank you. I can see a few styles here that might fit the bill.
     
  12. wagudc Jan 15, 2023

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    I would look at vintage Bulova as well.
     
  13. NikolShep Jan 15, 2023

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    Square Poljot , Raketa, if you like USSR watches.
     
  14. Larry S Color Commentator for the Hyperbole. Jan 15, 2023

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    Thousands…Now that we know the OP budget, yea UG is out, so are most of the watches I mentioned.
     
  15. __ryan__ Jan 15, 2023

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    Sure thing. With gold-filled cases, keep an eye out for brassing (wear-through to the base metal below). It's sometimes difficult to identify in photos.
     
  16. TexOmega Jan 15, 2023

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    Hamilton 1927 "cut corner"
    cal 987
    14kt green gold case
     
    Hamilton 1927 Square.jpg
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  17. Foo2rama Keeps his worms in a ball instead of a can. Jan 15, 2023

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    DAD1274F-657B-495D-9DEB-3C90132CE5B0.jpeg

    1943 and 1927.
     
  18. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Jan 15, 2023

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    The person that owns the site is one of the foremost collectors of Hamiltons. He also helped to dig out the archives of the company when they emptied out the factory in the 1990’s.

    Some of that information is on his site.
    gatorcpa
     
  19. Guy0783 Jan 15, 2023

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    I would suggest a Girrard Perregaux gyromatic. In steel, the square cased versions are robust and have a more modern size than earlier watches. They are quality automatic movements. The case is a clamshell style which adds to the appeal for me anyway.
     
  20. __ryan__ Jan 15, 2023

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    Just to clarify, I'm not saying the prices are unreasonable at that site. I'm saying that I'm not sure because I don't follow these closely. I'm willing to pay a premium for condition, and a lot of the watches on that site look to be in good condition.