I am writing some articles about how to photograph watches

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I managed to get this domain and I set up a quick website for my photography work.
I also started doing some "behind the scenes" articles about how I have taken some photos.

The link is here: https://watchphotography.com/articles.html

If you have any comments, please write here. I can do some "how-to's" if it's reasonable, so write your questions or wishes here.
I don't want to explain Photoshop editing, because I only do basic stuff. Rarely do background replacements.
But, surely I can share some tricks if anyone interested.

A couple of photos here to catch your attention 😀

 
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Great website Risto. Love it. I also have some decent DSLR and lenses gear, but will probably never manage to take photographs as nicely executed! (and nice watches by the way!)

One thing that tickled me when reading you’re articles is: how do you make the watch stand properly, without risk of falling?
 
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Great website Risto. Love it. I also have some decent DSLR and lenses gear, but will probably never manage to take photographs as nicely executed! (and nice watches by the way!)

One thing that tickled me when reading you’re articles is: how do you make the watch stand properly, without risk of falling?
Thank you!

And I am glad that you asked that. Actually, it's been asked many times before.
There are multiple ways to do it.
Depending on the bracelet or strap and the angle.

So, today I took this simple photo of Zenith Cover Girl on the table. And I used this rubber follow-focus gear ring. You can pinch it smaller.
And you can buy these in different sizes, they are rather cheap. So, you just put it inside of the bracelet/strap.
Then I put something behind the watch, so it does not move. The balance must be right. And it should not wobble. If the watch falls, and it can fall if you make clumsy moves/table moves, you might damage the watch if it falls to the crown (and you have a hard surface).

Another solution would be using a "helping hands" or "3rd hands" tool. This is normally sold under "Soldering Tool Flexible Arms" or smth.
And you grab the watch from the strap and hold it how you like it. Of course, then you have to think this through. You have to remove the flexible arm in Photoshop. And that might be tricky sometimes.

People also use transparent acrylic sticks and hot glue to hold the watch. Also, you must remove that in Photoshop.

And then you can use some fishing lines to hold the watch, but it's complicated. You have to fix the watch very tightly, so it won't wobble. And then again remove lines in Photoshop.

 
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What little background I've had on the periphery of photography was a rule about using "photo gray" for a background, but I see that you don't feature this approach in your photos posted here (so far). Is this a "dated" rule? What about your lighting set-up? How "natural" (ie limited in terms of equipment) can you be and still get a good result?
 
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What little background I've had on the periphery of photography was a rule about using "photo gray" for a background, but I see that you don't feature this approach in your photos posted here (so far). Is this a "dated" rule? What about your lighting set-up? How "natural" (ie limited in terms of equipment) can you be and still get a good result?
Did you check my website? There are articles with photos of my light setup.

Anyway, there are no strict rules how to shoot a watch. So, when you talk about studio grey background - sure it can be used. It really depends on how you want to setup everything. Is the watch on a stand, held with clamps, on a table, hangs in air with fishing lines…

Most of the shots I have taken are when the watch sits on a table. So, the table becomes the background. One of the issues with this - you have to “clean” the background from dust, scratches etc. But, it’s the quickest way to shoot.

Also, when using focus stacking you can blur out the background when shooting at f/4

 
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Oh, btw you don’t have to use studio lights if you can use diffused natural light. And with reflectors you can light the watch. Hardest to photograph a watch is in sunlight, because the contrast is super high.
 
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Oh, btw you don’t have to use studio lights if you can use diffused natural light. And with reflectors you can light the watch. Hardest to photograph a watch is in sunlight, because the contrast is super high.
Thank you so much for the detail. I did take a look at the website, by the way. It is beautifully done and the photos and reveals are gorgeous. My son has an entry level DSLR, a Nikon D3500, he might let me borrow, or may insist on working with me (!). I do recall that strong light is not your friend!

For those occasions when you might be out and about and inspired by your surroundings and don't have a proper camera, do you have any recommendations? In other words, if all you are carrying is your phone, is it possible to do something other than kind of take visual notes for later for a more proper shooting circumstance?
 
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Sure, you can use your phone. I suggest zooming in to have more “telephoto” look. And if you could use some white paper as a reflector. If there’s a strong light, then you have to block it a little. You can diffuse with some semitransparent material too.
 
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These are cool setups! I work in video/photo, but I've never spent time photographing my collection. I may have to book some time on the soundstage at at work and see if I can draw some inspiration from what you've shared.
 
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Great article. I'm going to try some of these tips for my own photos.
 
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thanks for posting this…and great shots! i just got a ring light and am looking forwa4d to trying that out for soft diffuse lighting. if i can get shots half as good as yours I will be happy.
 
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one question i do have is when you are shooting vintage watches how do you handle the inevitable dings and scratches that are found on most honest examples of tool watches? for many people they are part of the beauty and story of the watch, like wrinkles on a well lived human face. do you highlight them? try to hide them? all of the photos on your site seem very perfect but sometimes beauty is in imperfection too. how would you approach drawing out that aspect of beauty in a watch?
 
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Well i may need some personal trainning here as my iphone pictures are son ugly 😀)))
 
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thanks for posting this…and great shots! i just got a ring light and am looking forwa4d to trying that out for soft diffuse lighting. if i can get shots half as good as yours I will be happy.
Thanks. Well, the ring light might not be the best for watches, because it has very distinct light pattern that will show on your watch dial, and depending on the case it could be unwanted results there too. I have never tried one. For the best results you need to use a large diffuser and spotlight strong light.
 
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one question i do have is when you are shooting vintage watches how do you handle the inevitable dings and scratches that are found on most honest examples of tool watches? for many people they are part of the beauty and story of the watch, like wrinkles on a well lived human face. do you highlight them? try to hide them? all of the photos on your site seem very perfect but sometimes beauty is in imperfection too. how would you approach drawing out that aspect of beauty in a watch?
I don't hide the dings and scratches on the vintage watches. I can sometimes use a suitable angle light to hide them a little bit. But, I do not remove them in Photoshop. They are part of the story. Some of my vintage pieces are in very good condition.
In post-processing I only remove dust.
 
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Did you check my website? There are articles with photos of my light setup.

Anyway, there are no strict rules how to shoot a watch. So, when you talk about studio grey background - sure it can be used. It really depends on how you want to setup everything. Is the watch on a stand, held with clamps, on a table, hangs in air with fishing lines…

Most of the shots I have taken are when the watch sits on a table. So, the table becomes the background. One of the issues with this - you have to “clean” the background from dust, scratches etc. But, it’s the quickest way to shoot.

Also, when using focus stacking you can blur out the background when shooting at f/4

Would you mind sharing your camera setup? I feel so frustrated with my Rebel and 300mm lens. Maybe I just need to upgrade to 600mm?
 
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Would you mind sharing your camera setup? I feel so frustrated with my Rebel and 300mm lens. Maybe I just need to upgrade to 600mm?
If you check my articles there is everything listed about techniques and gear. For good shots you need dedicated macro lens or longer lens (60-100mm) depending on magnification. 300-600 is definitely too long!
 
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If you check my articles there is everything listed about techniques and gear. For good shots you need dedicated macro lens or longer lens (60-100mm) depending on magnification. 300-600 is definitely too long!
Oh, okay. I checked out your site. it's amazing! Do you think 300m is okay for super close up shots of dial details?
 
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Oh, okay. I checked out your site. it's amazing! Do you think 300m is okay for super close up shots of dial details?
No, because you are talking about telephoto lens. And these cannot focus close enough. Usually 300mm lens has min focus distance 1,5m. You can try using macro extension tube to reduce that distance.
 
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No, because you are talking about telephoto lens. And these cannot focus close enough. Usually 300mm lens has min focus distance 1,5m. You can try using macro extension tube to reduce that distance.
Much obliged. Thank you!