Hot Takes: Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 “Ed White”/“Cernan” in Stainless Steel (2020) Review

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The only thing I miss is on the fly clasp adjustment.

Yes, if someday Omega manages to create a clasp this is dainty enough for the bracelet, while also offering clasp adjustment, I’ll be in line

Thanks otherwise for the kind words about the information; I do these in part to collect my thoughts and also so that my bad memory has a place to come back to remind, and all the better if others also sometimes find it useful
 
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Not saying that it's not worth it, but it's a stretch.

Agree completely that for a lot of people, based on some combination of happenstance budget and collection goals, this watch isn’t the move. (Especially when a person might alternatively do a full hand swap on a FOIS.)

I think it takes getting down into these details to understand why *anyone* might buy it, far from why everyone should.
 
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I just came across this thread today, some really good analysis and super macro pictures by @cvalue13 and others, so thanks for that. I've had my NEW321 for a little over two months now and totally agree with the prior conclusions on how this model was executed and how it fits in the current Speedmaster universe. I can't get too exercised about the price, yes it's twice the price of a standard 3861 Speedmaster but you do get a lot for your money and in the world of fine watches it's not all that expensive these days. But that is up for everyone to decide on their own. These are emotional products.

My only nitpick on the watch is the bracelet, it's thin by design but I don't think it was designed quite right. As noted it has no quick adjustment on the clasp and therefore getting a good fit in both cool and warm conditions can sometimes be a crapshoot. Fortunately the removal of three links makes for a good fit for my 7.5" wrist (I don't like the bracelet/watch sliding around) so the lack of a quick adjustment is pretty much moot for me. However, the bracelet opening is somewhat small due to the relatively short blades used. The Apollo 11 50th bracelet has the same design and if you try to remove the watch in hot, humid weather you'll find it a tight fit to get over the wide portion of your hand. I've had this happen more than once. Yesterday I was out at a local car fest for a couple of hours, it was about 90 deg and a typical humid Texas summer day. Watch was fine on the wrist but when I tried to remove it to show a friend it was a real chore to get it over the hand. The bracelet design makes for a thin, compact affair but could be improved by allowing for a bit bigger opening. Not a deal breaker but it takes a bit of the shine off the total package. Others who wear their watch looser might not have an issue with this.

Although the boxes don't affect any watch's functionality the use of the old, standard 'suitcase' is a bit of an odd choice, imo. This Ed White is the only watch now using this older, discontinued box. Less expensive Omega's get special boxes, usually more compact. It is what it is, but just seems odd for such a special watch.

But overall I think Omega really hit the nail on the head here. It certainly would be the one Speedmaster I would keep out of the 11 that I have.
 
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a typical humid Texas summer day

If I knew we shared a state, I’d forgotten!

I think that makes 3 OF members with NEW321s in Texas.

There’d been talks of a central TX G2G…
 
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If I knew we shared a state, I’d forgotten!

I think that makes 3 OF members with NEW321s in Texas.

There’d been talks of a central TX G2G…
I always thought you lived in Houston.
 
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I always thought you lived in Houston.

Been a few years since I lived there, but I do get back with some regularity.
 
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If I knew we shared a state, I’d forgotten!

I think that makes 3 OF members with NEW321s in Texas.

There’d been talks of a central TX G2G…
I'm surprised that it's not more than three here on OF. But there are only three OBs in the state of 30 million. How many NEW321s has each boutique received over the last two years? Next time I wander into the San Antono boutique I'll see if they have a number.
 
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I'm surprised that it's not more than three here on OF. But there are only three OBs in the state of 30 million. How many NEW321s has each boutique received over the last two years? Next time I wander into the San Antono boutique I'll see if they have a number.
I'll need to ask the Houston OB to see how many they've received and if I can get on the list.
 
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Called the Houston OB and I'm mid 30's on the list. They got 3 last year according to the SA. She told me that the store has basically one business day to sell the watch so if you're not ready with the money when they call you're going back to the end of the list.
 
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Called the Houston OB and I'm mid 30's on the list. They got 3 last year according to the SA. She told me that the store has basically one business day to sell the watch so if you're not ready with the money when they call you're going back to the end of the list.
Interesting, these certainly aren't flying out of the factory. I would guess if you are in the market for an Ed White for around $15,500 (incl sales tax) you would be ready with the credit card if you haven't already paid for it, or at least have a hefty deposit down on it. But what if you are travelling and are out of contact for a couple of days? That would be painful to miss out and most likely never have the opportunity to get one from that OB.
 
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Great review, T4S!

While I appreciate both the logical and emotional reference to Cernan, I'm not sure the nick's going to take... 🤔 - and I'm not opposed to it... heck, I was physically present when he launched into space with the Apollo XVII crew... 😀

Full disclosure - I received mine today ::psy:: and I'm also sooo relieved that the "Cernan 321b's" crystal is devoid of that god-awful milk ring... 🫨So very happy - it was only one of two possible show-stoppers for me (price not in consideration... 😗).

Which brings me to the second iffy topic (for me) - the choice of SuperLuminova color. Yes, I've read all the posts / threads (...plural) on the subject, featuring ancient color magazine adverts providing "definitive proof" that Tritium was never white... 🥱 ... but honestly, the jury's still out - maybe I'll warm up to it sooner than later 😁

One thing's for sure - the lume's intensity blows my ~year 2000 3572.50's as well as the ST's lume out of the proverbial water... ::psy:: I'm going to be taking some macro shots and then perhaps I can bolster your assertion that the markers are actually grooves in the 3D (or sandwiched) dial... 📖 Albeit a small detail, being a lume whore (... 😗) I'm ecstatic.

This chart will go in my own review but I'm happy to present it here as well in the event you haven't come across it so far:
11370801103_96eb5725b7_o.jpg

While many brands / references "mix" the above lume variations with other (non luminous) pigments to produce the exact shade of "burnt tritium" they are looking for, it could be that Omega went with pure C3 - this would certainly help to increase the intensity. Unfortunately my eyes can't really differentiate between C3 and C1 - which is at the other end of the scale... *sigh* Heck, even "natural" could be a candidate... 🤔

~~~Thank you!


Otherwise, I have nothing to add to your comprehensive review other than I am (also) very pleased to now be part of the "Cernan 321b" crew 👍👍👍



p.s. - I read your "white paper" on sapphire variations vs. Hesalite - good reading, T4S 👍
 
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Beautiful!

Thanks so much for this review, it was instrumental in helping me better understand the NEW321 and ultimately buy it. I'm absolutely thrilled with the watch It feels like a favourite music album where you notice new melodies and details every time you hear it. Just a superb piece. The only thing I miss is on the fly clasp adjustment.
 
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Great review and attention to detail, I was stunned and immediately joined this forum ! I have received my 321 a few days ago after waiting for about ~1.5 years or so with 50% of deposit.

To help pin point number of watches being produced, my serial is 887037XX (delivery around Thanksgiving, and a day past my birthday haha ).

As for the point Evitzee made about liking to wear it somewhat snug fit, and not loose, I'm the same and I noticed that it's a bit challenging with limited functionality for adjustment to have a perfect fit without having some wrist marks if there's any minor swelling.

It's also not super easy like (other rolexes I own with steel bracelet) to get it in and out due to the bracelet opening not being large enough for my hand to fit in...

I was reading all your points @cvalue13 and one of them struck me when I noticed my 321 seems different in that regard? Or if I'm interpreting the photos badly. You mentioned that the center pins of all the hands are NOT painted, yet I inspected several photos online including yours and it's appearing to me that the center chronograph (largest arrow hand) pin does seem to be painted in your photos?

Here are some closeup photos:



Some more zoomed out photos of this beauty!


As you'll notice in all my photos and angle, you can't mistake the large hand pin being painted, it's clearly darker and metallic. Other photos I've seen all seem to show white in the middle. That's confusing me.
Edited:
 
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As you'll notice in all my photos and angle, you can't mistake the large hand pin being painted, it's clearly darker and metallic. Other photos I've seen all seem to show white in the middle. That's confusing me.
First & foremost, congrats!!! ::psy::

I'm not sure what you're confused about exactly, but the center pin is painted whereas the sub-registers aren't. Personally, I'd prefer they'd all match, one way or the other... 👍

51169243283_481ab8b617_c.jpg
 
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First & foremost, congrats!!! ::psy::

I'm not sure what you're confused about exactly, but the center pin is painted whereas the sub-registers aren't. Personally, I'd prefer they'd all match, one way or the other... 👍

51169243283_481ab8b617_c.jpg

Thank you!!!

That’s exactly my point, mine is not painted. See photos I posted, it’s exactly as the other sub seconds hands pins.

So I wonder why that is?? Is it a new batch moving forward that won’t have that painted? Was the old original Cernan also all unpainted hence they’re trying to replicate exactly?
 
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Thank you!!!

That’s exactly my point, mine is not painted. See photos I posted, it’s exactly as the other sub seconds hands pins.

So I wonder why that is?? Is it a new batch moving forward that won’t have that painted? Was the old original Cernan also all unpainted hence they’re trying to replicate exactly?
My 321 (SN 887008XX) has a painted central chrono seconds hand, perhaps Omega has made a slight change in the latest runs. I'd check it with a loupe though just to make sure that's the way it came from the factory and not the aftereffects of an intervention after it left the factory.

There is about a 2900 variation between your Nov 2022 watch and my Jan 2021 watch, about 22 months apart. That equates to about 1600 watches per year, just about in line with what Omega says is their capability.
 
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My 321 (SN 887008XX) has a painted central chrono seconds hand, perhaps Omega has made a slight change in the latest runs. I'd check it with a loupe though just to make sure that's the way it came from the factory and not the aftereffects of an intervention after it left the factory.

There is about a 2900 variation between your Nov 2022 watch and my Jan 2021 watch, about 22 months apart. That equates to about 1600 watches per year, just about in line with what Omega says is their capability.

Thanks for the reply, good to know on the number of watches being produced!

I was able to confirm other photos from Instagram that were posted recently after getting delivery of their watch, they all appear to not have the center seconds painted. So it’s most likely a change Omega made for the latest batches.

Posts here:
- https://www.instagram.com/p/CkafYP_LgQR/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
- https://www.instagram.com/p/ChBwJLjj7pd/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
- https://www.instagram.com/p/CkHadJNhwNl/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Edited:
 
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I was able to confirm other photos from Instagram that were posted recently after getting delivery of their watch, they all appear to not have the center seconds painted. So it’s most likely a change Omega made for the latest batches.

First of all, welcome and congrats!

Second, regarding the pin paint - good catch on my error: the center pin of the chronograph handset on mine is also painted, like yours (while the subdial pins are not painted). As mine was one of the earliest delivered, I wouldn’t think any change has been made in this respect.

Big congrats again on the 321!