Holiday watch shopping in Bangkok, Speedmaster triple date or Seamaster?

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It's actually based on the 7751, not the 7753. The 7753 is a 7750 configured to have 3-6-9 sub-dials, so definitely not what Omega made into the Cal. 1151.

Many people say that because this is 7750 based there's no difference in servicing one from a 7750. On many levels that is true, but in some significant ways it is not.

As you mention, the rotor is different but it's not exactly a minor change when it comes to servicing - it's not about the shape or adding "stripes." The bearing in the 1151 rotor is burnished in place and not replaceable, where the 7750 has the traditional locking collar system that allows the bearing to be replaced easily. So if the bearing is worn, the person you take it to won't be able to change the bearing and will need an entire new Omega rotor - an Omega parts account with a certified watchmaker will be needed for that, and it is rather common that the bearing is bad so replacing this part is not unusual at all.

The rest of the movement is pretty much the same, although not identical - the shape of the automatic bridge is completely different for example.

$500 for an automatic chronograph service - maybe 15 or 20 years ago, but you will be hard pressed to find any Omega certified watchmaker willing to do one that cheap now. Keep in mind that the rotor I mentioned above - if that needs replacing that alone is over $200 to replace.
Sorry, typo - 7751, yes. However, in the UK ‘thewatchprofessional’ is excellent, Omega accredited, ex in-house for a big jewellers’ chain (and Tag Heuer if my memory serves), and is £259 - about $350 to service these movements as of right now. I had to add in £40 or so extra for parts, and insured delivery, that was it. He’s great value, but you can find that sort of price in the UK, Finland (where I’m also familiar with) and even less in Japan if you look around - wasn’t aware the US had crept up markedly on that - but yes, if there’s a new rotor or something beyond a reverser/mainspring it can add substantially. That said, rotor wear is one of the easiest things to spot if they have a movement photo, and these sorts of reputable sellers are typically happy enough to provide that in my experience.
 
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Full service also included all the other aspects that people sometimes forget to think about. Replacing crown, pushers, case back seal, etc. Again things that as a watchmaker you will most likely need an account to acquire.
On that point, the other side of this is that some people are rip-off merchants, and it pays to get a second or even third opinion. I’ve been told new pushers, crowns, rotors, have been needed more than once by a couple of watch repairers that I consider to be little short of crooks. Years ago when I was younger and dumber, one quoted £967 - while another later sent high quality images and detailed explanations calling bull crap on almost all of the things that were supposedly needed, and did the work for 30% of the price. When I pushed back that that watch was a common calibre, I was told I’d been reading too many internet forums, and it was an Omega ‘and that’s what they cost’.

Anyway, we’re drifting off topic - but I’d not be scared of picking up a triple date that has decent amplitude and is keeping good time. It shouldn’t be impossible, or cost the earth, to keeping running near COSC standards for years to come. Those calibres are everywhere for a reason.
 
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That said, rotor wear is one of the easiest things to spot if they have a movement photo, and these sorts of reputable sellers are typically happy enough to provide that in my experience.
It depends on the movement - I wrote a post that covered this and other wear that can be spotted from photos here:


This tip is great for many calibers, but just to caution you it's not so good for the 7750 based watches. You typically do not see any wear on the rotor itself or the bridges on these calibers, unlike say the 1120, or even vintage calibers like the 550/560 series. For these chronographs you might see a circle inside the case back, but by the time the rotor is doing that the bearing is really far gone and needs replacing long before it's flopping around enough to cause that mark. So looking at a photo, even a good photo, probably isn't gong to detect a worn rotor on these.

However, in the UK ‘thewatchprofessional’ is excellent, Omega accredited, ex in-house for a big jewellers’ chain (and Tag Heuer if my memory serves), and is £259 - about $350 to service these movements as of right now.
That is incredibly cheap. Very unusual.

Years ago when I was younger and dumber, one quoted £967 - while another later sent high quality images and detailed explanations calling bull crap on almost all of the things that were supposedly needed, and did the work for 30% of the price.
Well, the main thing to keep in mind when comparing prices, is the scope of the work. As long as you are comparing apples to apples, then that's fair.

On that point, the other side of this is that some people are rip-off merchants, and it pays to get a second or even third opinion. I’ve been told new pushers, crowns, rotors, have been needed more than once by a couple of watch repairers that I consider to be little short of crooks.
Sorry you had a bad experience. There are good and bad in every profession, and watchmakers are no exception.

One thing to keep in mind is how a particular watchmaker approaches the need to replace something can be very different. For example seals - when a watch comes into my shop I perform a series of incoming tests, and that typically includes pressure testing. If the watch passes, what does that mean? Does it mean the seals don't in fact need replacing?

My answer would be - it depends. If the watch had been serviced recently by someone else, and came in for some sort of problem to be fixed, and I knew the seals had already been replaced, then no I would need to replace them. However if the watch is coming in and is 20 years old, passes the testing, does that mean the seals are okay? For me the answer is clear - no they are not. If you are servicing a watch like the Speedmaster above, replacing the relevant seals means replacing the pushers and crown if you are using genuine Omega parts (Omega does not sell those seals separately).

Seals in particular are a pass/fail test, and just because they pass now, doesn't mean they will in one year, one month, or even one week from now. That is the dilemma that all watchmakers face, and although seals are the most acute example I would say, it applies to all kinds of wear parts. Will a watch run fine with a slightly worn third wheel upper pivot? Yes, but will it run fine for the next 5-10 years that way? Not likely.

So there can be genuinely held differences of opinion on the condition of parts needing replacement or not. Personally, I tend to be rather brutal in judging the parts so if there's wear, it's gone because I'm not just servicing for good performance now (or just for the 2 year warranty provided), but for good performance going forward for many years.
 
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Even an inexpensive Weishi 1000 can get the rate, beat error, and bph for a co-axial movement. The amplitude will not be correct, however. If someone tells you otherwise they are either ignorant or lying because they don't want you to see it.
 
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Just picked up a SMPc in blue, from a Komehyo store in Bangkok. It was rated as “A” quality on their website and they sent me additional pictures as requested.
I asked them about its service history and was told that their supplier had serviced the watch in November 2025. They were unable to provide any further information or a picture of it on a timegrapher, but I used a free app to time it and it showed a BPH of 25200.

With the help of everyone here I think I did my due diligence, the watch came with a newer style box and 2 cards, and the warranty card dated 2014 matches with the serial number.

95,000 Thai Baht, I should get a 5,000 Thai Baht VAT refund when I leave the country.

 
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That looks fantastic, congratulations on the new watch!