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JimInOz
··Melbourne AustraliaBased on these photos I think it's genuine.
An Omega De Ville from the mid 1980s. Possibly a reference 196.0317, De Ville "Ile de France".
If you need more information then we need more.
Please read this.
https://omegaforums.net/threads/vintage-omega-posting-guide.383/
An Omega De Ville from the mid 1980s. Possibly a reference 196.0317, De Ville "Ile de France".
If you need more information then we need more.
Please read this.
https://omegaforums.net/threads/vintage-omega-posting-guide.383/
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siradolf
·Based on these photos I think it's genuine.
An Omega De Ville from the mid 1980s. Possibly a reference 196.0317, De Ville "Ile de France".
If you need more information then we need more.
Please read this.
https://omegaforums.net/threads/vintage-omega-posting-guide.383/
ive searched a lot for info but the weird thing is the Roman Numbers and also the case that only says “the ville” i havent found any picture of a watch with that kind of case.
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JimInOz
··Melbourne AustraliaBe very careful buying a watch with a 40 to 50 year old obsolete quartz movement.
If you have problems with it then getting it repaired can be difficult.
You need good clear pictures of the insides to see that there has been no battery leakage and that previous "watchmakers" haven't damaged the circuit block or the very fragile coil.
I would not but a watch like this unless I was able to view it in person.
If you have problems with it then getting it repaired can be difficult.
You need good clear pictures of the insides to see that there has been no battery leakage and that previous "watchmakers" haven't damaged the circuit block or the very fragile coil.
I would not but a watch like this unless I was able to view it in person.
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Edward53
·What @JimInOz said, plus - who are you buying it from? A friend? A dealer? Ebay and if so, a watch seller or a general seller? Do you know anything about this person and have you researched their selling record? How much does the seller want for it? Do you really like this model, or are you considering it because it's really cheap and you think you are getting a bargain? Is it running or not? All of these things have a bearing on whether or not you should buy it.
Personally I wouldn't touch it unless it is cheap, is running and is offered with a guarantee. Otherwise it might end up being quite an expensive "bargain".
Personally I wouldn't touch it unless it is cheap, is running and is offered with a guarantee. Otherwise it might end up being quite an expensive "bargain".
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siradolf
·What @JimInOz said, plus - who are you buying it from? A friend? A dealer? Ebay and if so, a watch seller or a general seller? Do you know anything about this person and have you researched their selling record? How much does the seller want for it? Do you really like this model, or are you considering it because it's really cheap and you think you are getting a bargain? Is it running or not? All of these things have a bearing on whether or not you should buy it.
Personally I wouldn't touch it unless it is cheap, is running and is offered with a guarantee. Otherwise it might end up being quite an expensive "bargain".
Hi, Im buying it from a local vintage watch seller, i like the Model, yes its working perfectly and he wants 200usd which is kind of cheap for this kind of watch in my country. He added this picture and ive asked for a picture with the case to See if there is any damage of the system.
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padders
··Oooo subtitles!If it is late enough to be an ETA based movement, and I would guess it is since my gut says that is from the latter half of the 1980s, then you will be fine even if it has issues. If it has an earlier in house quartz movement then you might not be fine, as noted parts and repairs can be tricky and pricey. Based on Jim's guess at the model, which does look convincing, it should have an ETA 255.411 or 255.412 based movement.
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siradolf
·If it is late enough to be an ETA based movement, and I would guess it is since my gut says that is from the latter half of the 1980s, then you will be fine even if it has issues. If it has an earlier in house quartz movement then you might not be fine, as noted parts and repairs can be tricky and pricey. Based on Jim's guess at the model, which does look convincing, it should have an ETA 255.411 or 255.412 based movement.
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padders
··Oooo subtitles!You can see the ETA number on it, 255.411. Those are still freely available so if the worst happened you could drop in a generic one. later ETA/Omega movements such as the 1538 maybe fit also, though that is a wild guess.
The serial dates it to circa 1990 by the way so it is later than some, including myself assumed.
The serial dates it to circa 1990 by the way so it is later than some, including myself assumed.
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DMass
·There are lots of similar watches if you type Omega 196.0317 into Google. The movement is the same as my 1981 Seamaster.
I am definitely far from an expert. There are an awful lot of of different types of DeVille styles available. How much does the person want for it?
I am definitely far from an expert. There are an awful lot of of different types of DeVille styles available. How much does the person want for it?
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DMass
·There are lots of similar watches if you type Omega 196.0317 into Google. The movement is the same as my 1981 Seamaster.
I am definitely far from an expert. There are an awful lot of of different types of DeVille styles available. How much does the person want for it?
What I have noticed is that the roman numeral dials seems to sell for more don't know if that is because they are more rare. I have found quite a few with the same case back as yours.
I am hoping one of the grown ups who knows more comes to give a more clear - yes it is legitimate. To my untrained eye it looks legitimate...
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siradolf
·There are lots of similar watches if you type Omega 196.0317 into Google. The movement is the same as my 1981 Seamaster.
I am definitely far from an expert. There are an awful lot of of different types of DeVille styles available. How much does the person want for it?
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