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Help with authentication and model info

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I have been looking online for photos of an Omega that matches this watch and haven’t found anything. I am questioning whether this is a counterfeit and hoping someone can tell me anything about this watch.

I inherited this from a family member about 10 years ago and believe he had it for over 40 years prior. It is pretty clean and seem to work great. The band is an aftermarket Speidel stretch band and the back looks to have been replaced as it has no markings other than the person’s name engraved on it.

I have found similar pieces online but what is always different are the diamonds on the face for the 1, 5, 7, 11. I haven’t seen others with those, they are typically just straight bars.

I have not had it opened or serviced so I am guessing that would be the next step to see what markings are on the internals.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated.

IMG_3306.webp IMG_3309.webp IMG_3310.webp IMG_3311.webp
 
Dan S
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Probably legit with original applied markers, but a very poorly repainted dial. There are many dial variations, and you won't always find the exact same variant online. The case-back is probably original and would have originally been blank. Markings will be inside the watch to determine the specific reference, movement information, case maker/material, etc.
 
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Dan S Dan S
Probably legit with original applied markers, but a very poorly repainted dial. There are many dial variations, and you won't always find the exact same variant online. The case-back is probably original and would have originally been blank. Markings will be inside the watch to determine the specific reference, movement information, case maker/material, etc.
Thanks! I guess I will need to get someone to open it and get some pictures of the inside to learn much. Assuming it is authentic, would it have any significant value given the poor face restoration? Not sure what to do with it and it just sits in a box year after year.
 
uk_onega
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The omega automatic has been quite badly written on after probably fading before.
Personally it wouldn't be one I'd have because of that
 
Dan S
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P piedmont
Thanks! I guess I will need to get someone to open it and get some pictures of the inside to learn much. Assuming it is authentic, would it have any significant value given the poor face restoration? Not sure what to do with it and it just sits in a box year after year.
If the case is solid gold, it has significant value. If gold-filled, not much value.
 
uk_onega
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Maybe look to see if you can get a replacement dial for it and sell if you're not going to wear it
 
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Dan S Dan S
Probably legit with original applied markers, but a very poorly repainted dial. There are many dial variations, and you won't always find the exact same variant online. The case-back is probably original and would have originally been blank. Markings will be inside the watch to determine the specific reference, movement information, case maker/material, etc.
Here is the inside, lots of numbers and markings. Is there an easy way to tell if the case is solid gold? It does not seem to respond to magnet.

IMG_3314.webp IMG_3316.webp
 
uk_onega
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P piedmont
Here is the inside, lots of numbers and markings. Is there an easy way to tell if the case is solid gold? It does not seem to respond to magnet.

IMG_3314.webp IMG_3316.webp
Good start that the case back has .750 which is 18k solid gold
 
uk_onega
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Also gold capped models don't have the underside and inside the case in gold so likely solid gold 😀
 
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uk_onega uk_onega
Also gold capped models don't have the underside and inside the case in gold so likely solid gold 😀
It appears this watch was made in 1947 based on serial lookup. If it is real and solid 18k gold, any ballpark value estimate? Seems to be in great working order, quite clean inside and spinning away.
 
Dan S
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The dial kills the value as a collectible so the value is almost entirely in the gold. You can look up the spot price of gold per gram, multiply by 0.75 for 18k gold, and then assume that you will get 80-85% of that from a gold buyer. I'd assume it will be something like 1000-ish currency units.

You can sell the movement separately for maybe 100.
 
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