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Help me evaluate a(nother) Dirty Dozen?

Annapolis
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B0FC5424-A1E2-4A83-B15B-1AECFE4330AD.jpeg 948CB9BF-CE12-48D4-B7E4-37F146FB77FB.jpeg 3F889CA9-CD8E-465F-9567-320F39699303.jpeg D896A453-7882-4BEC-9B12-1B92D7A61628.jpeg 04688B01-C93A-4956-B4DC-BF4EA8A5CAC9.jpeg


Figured I’d begin a new post so as not to confuse the issue. Some of you have very helpfully weighed in on another of these in a separate thread. Hoping to tax your expertise once again!

This one is a little rougher than the other but I think in a good way, as it hasn’t been crappily restored. It looks like a _story_, which is one of the appeals of vintage militaria.

This would come to me fully serviced for around $1300. Thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Dan S
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Looks legit to me. I think it's hard to price an example like this because of the rough condition. That's not a critical comment, just an honest appraisal. Does the watch run well? The reason I'm asking is that the photo of the movement makes the hairspring look wonky, but it's hard to see it clearly. If it's thrashed, there could be extra expenses in a repair. I would try to get the price down, since the movement could be a project, and even when it is fixed, the value is limited because of the condition. The broken lume in the hands is not original to the watch, so if you buy the watch, you needn't hesitate to have them re-lumed with a color-match to the radium on the dial.
 
size11s
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The regulator being right over to retard would also cause me a little concern.
 
S
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I have spent a year and a half studying only these Omega WWW dials. Can you tell if the distortion in the 8 o’clock area is from the scratched crystal versus dial deterioration. Turn it on angle. The dial needs to be very good at this price.

Also, does 1300 US include all parts?
Usually it does but parts are becoming rather dear for 75 year old movements.
 
Annapolis
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The owner did say the dial is much better looking in person than the photos suggest. That said, I can’t confirm or speak to your other (helpful) question/point.

As it happens, I’ve decided to pass on this watch, in no small part owing to the feedback I got here. I’m going after a mid-60s 135.011 (black technical dial) instead, which is more at my price point and a stunning watch in its own right. Maybe down the road I’ll be able to afford a satisfying DD Omega.
 
S
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Good luck!

FYI-I spent a year and a half studying this model with the price rising the entire time. Incredible number of fakes, redials, hidden rust and gross Franken watches (see Epry) were coming to market as prices rose.

Finally “Won” one at well known auction with two known potential problems-possibly hands (hour/minute) and regulator issue. (Later, learned period correct hands-if can be found- run over £175 pounds and service without warranty {over 70 years old} was going to be over £800.) Close to the original hammer price at auction.

Suggest being very confident with the seller the higher the price goes.
 
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