Help ID’ing vintage Omega...

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Here's one that belonged to my pal West Coast Bill.


[my 2365 left, Bill's 14311 right]

Sad to say Bill let it go earlier this year.

Art
That’s a great shot of the markers. Thanks, Art!
 
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That’s a great shot of the markers. Thanks, Art!
Notice someone above gave you a link to someone who might have the markers.

You have 3 options a movement only service, a restoration by a specialist that will preserve its value. Or sell as is.

if you choose the third having pictures of the movement and inner case will be needed. You can also take the $200? Dice roll and get an extract and see if it has Tiffany’s in the records which will increase the value.
 
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Notice someone above gave you a link to someone who might have the markers.

You have 3 options a movement only service, a restoration by a specialist that will preserve its value. Or sell as is.

if you choose the third having pictures of the movement and inner case will be needed. You can also take the $200? Dice roll and get an extract and see if it has Tiffany’s in the records which will increase the value.
I am going to go the restoration route and try to sensibly get it back in more original state. I’ll do the extract either way...it adds to the history regardless of whether Omega can confirm it went to Tiffany.
 
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I am going to go the restoration route and try to sensibly get it back in more original state. I’ll do the extract either way...it adds to the history regardless of whether Omega can confirm it went to Tiffany.

What are your plans re. restoration? Sending it for a redial and case restoration?
 
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What are your plans re. restoration? Sending it for a redial and case restoration?
That’s what I am thinking. I’m considering at least getting an estimate from Omega on a dial and case restoration, as well as a period strap, buckle and movement servicing. It’s a family piece so I’d rather have it restored to enjoy for many years.
 
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Okay.

You should note that if you send it to Omega, it will end up drastically changed from what it is now. That can certainly have its benefits, but I think you should consider what your goals with restoring it are.
 
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Restoring an original Tiffany dial will destroy its value, they're only original once, unless you just want something pretty.
 
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I am going to go the restoration route and try to sensibly get it back in more original state. I’ll do the extract either way...it adds to the history regardless of whether Omega can confirm it went to Tiffany.
So in a piece this old you need a specialist that can retain its value. Sending to Omega is not going to accomplish that goal. They will attempt to make it function like new... that includes a new dial, new hands, modern crown, polished case. After that your watch has little value other then gold value to collectors, who would pay the most for this piece in an as is condition or in a respectfully restored example. (2-3x)

where are you located?
 
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So in a piece this old you need a specialist that can retain its value. Sending to Omega is not going to accomplish that goal. They will attempt to make it function like new... that includes a new dial, new hands, modern crown, polished case. After that your watch has little value other then gold value to collectors, who would pay the most for this piece in an as is condition or in a respectfully restored example. (2-3x)

where are you located?
I’m in California, USA.
 
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Restoring an original Tiffany dial will destroy its value, they're only original once, unless you just want something pretty.
That did not occur to me. I thought Omega would repair and touch up the dial. I did not know they’d strip and repaint the dial.
 
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That’s a great shot of the markers. Thanks, Art!

My pleasure! If only Bill still owned his 14311 . . . a detailed macro would've been forthcoming.
 
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That did not occur to me. I thought Omega would repair and touch up the dial. I did not know they’d strip and repaint the dial.

It's possible to find a dial with similar markers by searching for Omega movements on eBay. Gold cases are often scrapped and innards with dials attached are sold at reasonable cost.

The safest route is to have the movement serviced now and leave dial restoration for when you have original markers. And please, carefully consider case polishing or crown replacement. Your watchmaker may suggest either or both; both actions will detract from your chronometer's originality.

Art
 
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It's possible to find a dial with similar markers by searching for Omega movements on eBay. Gold cases are often scrapped and innards with dials attached are sold at reasonable cost.

The safest route is to have the movement serviced now and leave dial restoration for when you have original markers. And please, carefully consider case polishing or crown replacement. Your watchmaker may suggest either or both; both actions will detract from your chronometer's originality.

Art
Great advice and thank you. After looking at other 14311 models from the period, I am wondering whether the crown on this watch was replaced. It does not have an Omega logo on it.

My goal is a restoration with all original parts for this model/era. The dial is what is tricky and everyone has given me a lot to consider. I do not want to lose the originality, but I do want it to be a nice restored piece that I can wear a couple of days per week and pass onto my son when he’s older.
 
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I would be looking on eBay for a dial with faceted gold triangular markers, even if it's not exactly the same dial. The condition of the dial doesn't matter, so it will probably only cost you $50 or so. Then you can find someone to install three of them on the Tiffany dial. Most likely you can find something reasonably close.

Or you can wait until the exact dial shows up, and take those markers. It will happen eventually, but you might need to commit to constant searching for a few years.
 
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Whats the deal with the 5 digit case number? The convention in the late 1940s early 50s was for a 4 digit ID, perhaps with an additional iteration number. The 5 digit scheme came in the early 60s, are there any others like this that break the usual rules?
 
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Whats the deal with the 5 digit case number? The convention in the late 1940s early 50s was for a 4 digit ID, perhaps with an additional iteration number. The 5 digit scheme came in the early 60s, are there any others like this that break the usual rules?

There are a few other 14xxx references from the early '50s.

 
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Great advice and thank you. After looking at other 14311 models from the period, I am wondering whether the crown on this watch was replaced. It does not have an Omega logo on it.

My goal is a restoration with all original parts for this model/era. The dial is what is tricky and everyone has given me a lot to consider. I do not want to lose the originality, but I do want it to be a nice restored piece that I can wear a couple of days per week and pass onto my son when he’s older.

I believe the crown's original.
 
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That’s a great shot of the markers. Thanks, Art!

Found another pic of Bill's ref 14311 . . .



. . . in my files.

Art