Gold vs Steel

malilis · May 6, 2021

Dear All,

Since being a member here I read many threads and learned a lot.
I have observed that collectors generally prefer ssteel watches over gold plated/filled/capped watches.
Why is that ? What are the reasons actually ?

When I look at vintages watches, I see many chrome plated ou gold plated brass cases and again generally the gold plated are in better shape .. very often, the chrome is peeling, oxydized .. it is not so with the gold plated /filled/capped ones. Then when in steel, the ssteel cases are not damaged by oxydation but so often by scratches and dings ..

Ofcourse this is not a rule .. all case are possible !

Then I notice also that when new the gold plated/filled/capped watches would be more expensive than the steel ones .. but second hand vintages are in the opposite situation ..

I would appreciate your opinions, thank you !

Eve · May 6, 2021

Beside the fact that i am not into two-tone watches, it is not only the esthetic issue for me.
The same way i would not want to have a watch, that pretends to be a diver, but is not, i dont like having a gold looking watch that is not out of gold.

Peemacgee · May 6, 2021

It’s partly to do with current tastes.
Some don’t like gold watches (of any type) as they are too dressy, hence the slightly pejorative abbreviation of LGDW (little gold dress watch)

SS is more versatile and can be dressed up or down.

You also have to differentiate between gold finishes.
Gold cap is infinitely superior to gold filled, with gold plated, the thinnest application, following filled.
Both filled and plated can wear through more easily than capped.

Some don’t like gold capped/filled/plated watches as it smacks of ‘solid gold wannabe’ but without the wherewithal to fund the real thing.

Finally, chromed watches are a bit of a no-no (except where no other variant exists on a collectible watch) because the finish peels off.

Hope that helps.

Franco · May 6, 2021

In the vintage area, I prefer solid metal, either steel for most watches, or 18k gold for elegant watches.

Simple reason is that, in the vintage area, it is easier to find watches with cases which are in good shape, or can be easily restored by a professional - if you target these type of cases. Surfaces can be rectified with dedicated machines, before or after metal apposition by laser.

This is obviously not possible with plated or capped.

To find an interesting watch with great dial, great movement but a worn out plated or capped is a letdown big way.

malilis · May 6, 2021

Eve
Beside the fact that i am not into two-tone watches, it is not only the esthetic issue for me.
The same way i would not want to have a watch, that pretends to be a diver, but is not, i dont like having a gold looking watch that is not out of gold.

yes, I can understand that approach .. either steel or solid gold ..
Thks,

malilis · May 6, 2021

Peemacgee
It’s partly to do with current tastes.
Some don’t like gold watches (of any type) as they are too dressy, hence the slightly pejorative abbreviation of LGDW (little gold dress watch)

SS is more versatile and can be dressed up or down.

You also have to differentiate between gold finishes.
Gold cap is infinitely superior to gold filled, with gold plated, the thinnest application, following filled.
Both filled and plated can wear through more easily than capped.

Some don’t like gold capped/filled/plated watches as it smacks of ‘solid gold wannabe’ but without the wherewithal to fund the real thing.

Finally, chromed watches are a bit of a no-no (except where no other variant exists on a collectible watch) because the finish peels off.

Hope that helps.

I can also understand the fact that it could be considered too dressy .. and the differences between plated, filled , capped are well known indeed .. and true, it is better to have the solid gold but not always financially possible !
Thks,

malilis · May 6, 2021

Franco
In the vintage area, I prefer solid metal, either steel for most watches, or 18k gold for elegant watches.

Simple reason is that, in the vintage area, it is easier to find watches with cases which are in good shape, or can be easily restored by a professional - if you target these type of cases. Surfaces can be rectified with dedicated machines, before or after metal apposition by laser.

This is obviously not possible with plated or capped.

To find an interesting watch with great dial, great movement but a worn out plated or capped is a letdown big way.

Thank you for your opinion !

Manners · May 7, 2021

It’s either 18k Rose gold or stainless steel for me. Rest just meh.

Peemacgee · May 7, 2021

malilis
I can also understand the fact that it could be considered too dressy .. and the differences between plated, filled , capped are well known indeed .. and true, it is better to have the solid gold but not always financially possible !
Thks,

I should have added that I’m not one of the nay-sayers.
I’ve have predominantly SS watched but also; YG cap, pink gold cap, 14k solid yellow gold, 18k solid YG and 18k pink gold.
Finances are a consideration, when you can get a decent gold cap Connie for say 1000 and an 18k equivalent might cost three or four times as much.
Also GC watches are more plentiful and can often be in better condition than 18k solid gold as (IIRC) the capping is the harder 14k gold.(and they have solid gold bezels).

Vitezi · May 7, 2021

malilis
I would appreciate your opinions, thank you !

Don't be afraid of chrome or gold plated/filled/capped watches. Sure, you will need to be more diligent in assessing the cases for wear-through, especially around the sharp case edges and lugs, than you might otherwise need to be with a solid metal case. However, watch companies made lots of watches in chrome and gold plate/fill/cap back in the day so you have a larger number of possible examples to review.

With respect to chrome cases, it's also possible to have the chrome replated with satisfactory results if you happen to find a nice dial in a chewed-up case and you aren't insistent on originality. There are a few threads in this forum on that topic.

cristos71 · May 7, 2021

For me steel and solid 14kt/18kt gold are my go to choices and if in good shape are by far the best looking. I have had loads of gold cap watches, almost exclusively from the 1950's, but have since sold the majority off as it is my least favourite case option, a little confused, being neither steel nor gold. I still have a couple, but only as they are housing hard to find dials.

Gold plate has always been a big no-no and I'd never recommend anybody to buy a gold plated vintage watch, just a bit cheap looking IMO

malilis · May 7, 2021

Vitezi
Don't be afraid of chrome or gold plated/filled/capped watches. Sure, you will need to be more diligent in assessing the cases for wear-through, especially around the sharp case edges and lugs, than you might otherwise need to be with a solid metal case. However, watch companies made lots of watches in chrome and gold plate/fill/cap back in the day so you have a larger number of possible examples to review.

With respect to chrome cases, it's also possible to have the chrome replated with satisfactory results if you happen to find a nice dial in a chewed-up case and you aren't insistent on originality. There are a few threads in this forum on that topic.

Very true, thank you !

SkunkPrince · May 7, 2021

I don't mind filled or capped. I just happen to have more steel.

Gold vs Steel

malilis

Eve

Peemacgee

Franco

malilis

malilis

malilis

Manners

Peemacgee

Vitezi

cristos71

malilis

SkunkPrince

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