Gashes in crystal after service

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Hi all,

I need your advice after having my watch serviced. I received it today and there seems to be some very slight but still noticeable inclusions and gashes on the edge of the crystal that were not present before.

Please take a look at the attached photos and tell me if I’m crazy or if you can see it as well.

I took it up with the servicer, and his response was: “Thanks for the update. The crystal is old and brittle, we buff it as best that we can to try and eliminate as many of the scratches as we can.”

Before I take any next steps, I just want to hear everyone’s thoughts on if what I’m seeing is real or not. Plus, some guidance on next steps would be great as I haven’t dealt with this sort of thing before.

Thank you very much.

 
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Since this is a "front loading" movement, it could be from a dull crystal opening tool.



This spot almost looks like a tooth slipped
EmbkDWi.jpeg
 
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Since this is a "front loading" movement, it could be from a dull crystal opening tool.



This spot almost looks like a tooth slipped
EmbkDWi.jpeg
Wow that seems right on. This can't possibly be acceptable for a professional watch servicer, right?

He is a local guy with tons of great reviews and been in business for a long time, so I'm not really sure how to feel / what to expect...
 
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It's hard to compare the before and after by just looking at the same section of the bezel because he possibly did not place the crystal exactly in the same position after the service. Do you have the before photos from different angles? It is still likely that he added new cracks using the crystal removal tool, but the limited visual comparison above does not prove that.
 
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It's hard to compare the before and after by just looking at the same section of the bezel because he possibly did not place the crystal exactly in the same position after the service. Do you have the before photos from different angles? It is still likely that he added new cracks using the crystal removal tool, but the limited visual comparison above does not prove that.

For sure, you can see similar scratches in his before picture as well from assumedly previous openings
ul3O7bT.png
 
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@rendo Thank you for your response. Upon reviewing some other photos, I see a similar scratch that may be that one big looking one, although I am unable to see the edge scratches mentioned in the original post. Here are all the photos from before the service that I have:
 
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The keywords in your post are “local guy”! Check with him. The age of the crystal has a lot to do with cracks like those. As the acrylic ages, it loses flexibility, and those things can happen. He likely should have advised you that the damage to the crystal was at your risk! And he would have been smart to include a new crystal in the quote he gave you.
 
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The keywords in your post are “local guy”! Check with him. The age of the crystal has a lot to do with cracks like those. As the acrylic ages, it loses flexibility, and those things can happen. He likely should have advised you that the damage to the crystal was at your risk! And he would have been smart to include a new crystal in the quote he gave you.
Thanks for your response. I did check with him regarding this but his answer was not clear to me. (I put his response in the original post)

I'm just posting this here as I am new to this world and really appreciate second opinions.
 
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Since this is a "front loading" movement, it could be from a dull crystal opening tool.



This spot almost looks like a tooth slipped
EmbkDWi.jpeg

Any actual watchmaker please correct me, because I’m the furthest thing from, but based on similar SMDVs I’ve opened, I don’t think a crystal lift is needed for this reference. The crystal should just come out freely with the bezel when it is removed.

Edit: not saying one wasn’t used…
 
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@JimInOz has explained the blow out method with front loaders….

(different to the other “blow out” that happens in Werribee)
 
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Since this is a "front loading" movement, it could be from a dull crystal opening tool.



This spot almost looks like a tooth slipped
EmbkDWi.jpeg
I've been looking closer at this compared to the before and I just can't see an exact matching scratch. The size and direction of this scratch aren't in any of the before photos as far as I can tell.

Anyone else see it anywhere?
 
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A crystal lift isn’t used for these cases as the crystal has a tension ring.
The bezel is removed, generally with a knife, at which point the crystal and tension ring lift off. the two piece stem is separated and once rotated slightly to unlock the movement from the case, the dial and movement are removed from the front.

That said, careless use of the press when reattaching the bezel could have caused scratches to the edges of the crystal, particularly if the bezel is tight.

I wouldn’t loose sleep over it. Five minutes with polywatch will have them removed and I might think twice about using them in the future.
 
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Any actual watchmaker please correct me, because I’m the furthest thing from, but based on similar SMDVs I’ve opened, I don’t think a crystal lift is needed for this reference. The crystal should just come out freely with the bezel when it is removed.

Edit: not saying one wasn’t used…

Yeah good point, I haven't popped one off but that's what I thought was going on.
 
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Thank you everyone for your prompt responses. I really appreciate it.

Per @Davidt 's advice, I'm going to get some poly watch and clean this up myself. And, I'm going to be happy with my freshly service, first omega! 😁
 
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There's enough feedback already but my feedback:

1) Crystals turn so you can't compare point to point
2) This is the reason crystal locking watches aren't favoured, very easy to damage crystal or crown and in normal circumstances petty part spares should've been available to everyone

Being where you are now, I work on my own watches now, crystal damage doesn't matter one bit, if he returned the dial and hands as they are I think he should get a pass

Polywatch isn't enough for this task, you should go 320 > 1000 > 2000 > 5000 grit sanding etc. then use something like a polywatch is my suggestion, for deep scratches you need to work with lower grit a bit, if you want something better than Polywatch Menzerna 400 car polisher is my wonder chemical
 
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There's enough feedback already but my feedback:

1) Crystals turn so you can't compare point to point
2) This is the reason crystal locking watches aren't favoured, very easy to damage crystal or crown and in normal circumstances petty part spares should've been available to everyone

Being where you are now, I work on my own watches now, crystal damage doesn't matter one bit, if he returned the dial and hands as they are I think he should get a pass

Polywatch isn't enough for this task, you should go 320 > 1000 > 2000 > 5000 grit sanding etc. then use something like a polywatch is my suggestion, for deep scratches you need to work with lower grit a bit, if you want something better than Polywatch Menzerna 400 car polisher is my wonder chemical
Thank you for your response. That is very helpful. And yes - I have given him a pass after all the information provided so thank you for confirming that. Further, he did a great job on the rest of the watch and it is keeping excellent time, so overall a great experience.
 
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I would just get a new crystal. Wouldn’t be that expensive for this watch and plenty available from a watchmaker with a parts account or generic if your watchmaker doesn’t have an Omega account.
 
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I would just get a new crystal. Wouldn’t be that expensive for this watch and plenty available from a watchmaker with a parts account or generic if your watchmaker doesn’t have an Omega account.
This is a great advice. Even an aftermarket crystal would make a big improvement on this watch, but you should be able to find an Omega version either through your watchmaker or on eBay.
 
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I would just get a new crystal. Wouldn’t be that expensive for this watch and plenty available from a watchmaker with a parts account or generic if your watchmaker doesn’t have an Omega account.

Generics are very hit and miss for these as the tension ring has a lip which some of the generics don’t have and it can cause issues.
 
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I don't know about this model but I don't think an aftermarket crystal is ever a good idea with Omega's, the crystal is a very important part of the watch protecting the dial, a slightly wrong tension ring can easily damage a dial

For example now that I take a second look, OP's dial has a gap between the dial and crystal ring, could be a wrong ring or a previously bent dial when someone pushed a wrong crystal etc.