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Fathers Watch

STANDY
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Case back removed will reveal all. Until then we can only guess.

Get a experienced watchmaker to take the back of take a few snaps and put it back on. $20 job that could make the difference of thousand. ( don’t do it yourself please )

Take your time with this watch.

Plenty of sharks will be happy to offer you money but take it slow.
 
Dan S
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D dian1
Thank you everyone for the information. I am however a little confused. One poster mentioned "do not get it serviced" while another indicated that to obtain additional details have a watchmaker remove the back and take detailed pictures. Wouldn't the main "no-no" associated with servicing be removing the back?
Is removing the back the only way to determine which model? Mention was made of three variations 145.012-67, 145.012-68 or 145.022-68. One poster seems to indicate that the 145.012-68 is somewhat more unique.
I've tried to read various articles about these watches but lots of ambiguity (for me at least) still exists.
Thanks

The potential harm associated with servicing has nothing to do with removing the back. People with sufficient experience remove the backs of watches all the time, and it's totally acceptable. In this case, it's absolutely necessary to identify the reference and authenticate the movement and serial number, so you just need to have a skilled person do it to avoid damaging the case-back.

The concerns about having the watched serviced mainly involve the potential for changes to be made to the watch, affecting its originality. For example, original parts could be swapped-out with replacements, or the original lines and edges of the case could be polished away. Moreover, if you intend to sell the watch, there is little to be gained by having the watch serviced. However, if you decide to hold onto the watch and wear it, you should definitely have it serviced by a watchmaker who is very sensitive to maintaining the watch's originality.
 
eugeneandresson
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That is an incredible find. Auction houses take their cut, so unless two guys go to crazy lengths (likely) you might be able to get more privately.

Getting a watchmaker to open will be fine, just make sure he keeps the purple stuff on the back unscratched.

Dial looks deep black and glossy, I’ll wager it’s a 145.012-67.

My advice would be : don’t sell if you don’t need the cash...

And, seeing as nobody has yet : dibs!

Edit : nice Seiko...
 
Davidt
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Regarding selling, I agree if I had that watch I wouldn't sell via auction house (actually if I had that watch I wouldn't be selling at all!). However, with no experience of selling watches and the fact that he can't sell here, I'm not sure selling privately is a viable option here.
 
jimmyd13
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D dian1
Thank you everyone for the information. I am however a little confused. One poster mentioned "do not get it serviced" while another indicated that to obtain additional details have a watchmaker remove the back and take detailed pictures. Wouldn't the main "no-no" associated with servicing be removing the back?
Is removing the back the only way to determine which model? Mention was made of three variations 145.012-67, 145.012-68 or 145.022-68. One poster seems to indicate that the 145.012-68 is somewhat more unique.
I've tried to read various articles about these watches but lots of ambiguity (for me at least) still exists.
Thanks
Firstly, lovely watch.

Just to clarify on what others have said above, the value of this watch is in its originality and untouched condition. To that end, you mustn't do any work on the watch. These watches pain me because I only have watches that I wear and, much as I love this, I could never bring myself to own it. Hardcore collectors of Speedmasters will encase this in glass and show it to very special guests while sipping a good scotch after dinner. However, to accurately describe it for sale, you will need to disclose the reference numbers that are shown on the inside of the caseback and the movement serial number. The only way to get those is to open the watch. However, even scratching that purple gunk on the back will affect the condition of the watch so, to that end, you need to have it opened by someone with the correct tooling.

I will reiterate what others have advised: this is a watch for a specialised auction. Don't be tempted to do anything else with it.
 
Buck2466
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My guess would be a 145.012-67 or earlier because of the chrono hand. The transition to the flat bottomed chrono hand started on the 67, so by the time the 68's rolled out they had the flat bottomed chrono hand. You have a very valuable treasure there! Please take the advice given above and do not try and do anything to the watch yourself. Search and find a qualified watchmaker to remove the case back to get the numbers off the inside of it and the serial number off the movement. Take clear pictures of the inside of the case back and movement at that time when the watchmaker removes it, so you have proof, and you won't have to do it again if you decide to sell. Because of it's stunning condition, I would not be tempted to wear it, if you are deciding to sell. You would only devalue the watch if something were to happen while wearing it. You seem to be going about this the right way, by doing your research, and coming here for information. My best advice would be to take your time. Good luck!
 
MikiJ
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Buck2466 Buck2466
My guess would be a 145.012-67 or earlier because of the chrono hand. The transition to the flat bottomed chrono hand started on the 67, so by the time the 68's rolled out they had the flat bottomed chrono hand.
For whatever reasons I always thought the the first run of the cal.321 '68s had the original teardrop chrono hand. When they switched over to the Cal.861 they used the flat bottom chrono hand. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I'd really like to know for sure.
 
Buck2466
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MikiJ MikiJ
For whatever reasons I always thought the the first run of the cal.321 '68s had the original teardrop chrono hand. When they switched over to the Cal.861 they used the flat bottom chrono hand. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I'd really like to know for sure.
As far as I know, the transition started on late 67's. By 68, they should be flat bottomed. The flat bottom started on the last of the 321's.
 
MikiJ
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Buck2466 Buck2466
The flat bottom started on the last of the 321's.
Then for sure all 145.012-68s had a flat bottom chrono hand. Thank you.
Edited:
 
MikiJ
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Davidt Davidt
I'm not convinced that's a hard and fast rule.
Oh Boy, another Omega anomaly?
 
Dan S
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Davidt Davidt
I'm not convinced that's a hard and fast rule.

Agreed. There is definitely overlap between delivery dates for -67 and -68, so why not?
 
NickC
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D dian1
Thank you everyone for the information. I am however a little confused. One poster mentioned "do not get it serviced" while another indicated that to obtain additional details have a watchmaker remove the back and take detailed pictures. Wouldn't the main "no-no" associated with servicing be removing the back?
Is removing the back the only way to determine which model? Mention was made of three variations 145.012-67, 145.012-68 or 145.022-68. One poster seems to indicate that the 145.012-68 is somewhat more unique.
I've tried to read various articles about these watches but lots of ambiguity (for me at least) still exists.
Thanks

If you let us know where you are based, people will advise some great watchmakers who can assist.
 
MMariotti
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I couldn't see, but I am assuming you cannot dig out the papers from somewhere? This watch in this conditions with papers can fetch well over 15k
 
D
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I have no paperwork along with the watch. Only the watch and the case.
I'm in NW Montana USA.
A watchmaker with a good reputation is in Polson, 50 miles south and I intend to check with him.
There is a good chance that I will be traveling to Anacortes WA, north of Seattle, in the spring so that might be opportunity to have the watch opened.
Again, thanks.
 
Syrte
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Member @river rat if I recall correctly is in Montana - maybe he would know a good watchmaker he could recommend.
You could reach out via private messaging, he will get the message on his email.
 
Faz
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Davidt Davidt
I'm not convinced that's a hard and fast rule.
My first Speedmaster was an .012-68 from the original owner and had a teardrop sweep seconds hand. I must have a pic somewhere...can't remember the serial number. I remember paying $1800.00 for it in 2005.
 
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