Differences between Omega 1320 and 1325, I am desperate

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Dear people,
Firstly, I want to say that I am just so incredibly happy to meet you all here and that I could find this forum with all of the genius people with so much experience! This is my very first post, and if I am breaking any rules I very much apologize and ask the moderators not to punish me too harshly.

The following situation is keeping me up at night and giving anxiety:

So a few days ago I just did the unexplainable- found omega seamaster mariner and bought it for so cheap I can’t even say (under 200 bucks, even less) - in non working condition. The outer condition is just so nice and I managed to clean every little case part. Then I was getting into the movement - opened the case and saw that it was quite dirty inside and a screw randomly fell onto my table. After an inspection I saw that the motor and two little wires that connect the motor to the circuit were not even touching and they were outside and not on the inside. Presuming that either the motor or the electronics might be dead I started the search. Then all the hell broke loose - I figured it’s a 1320 movement that has just so many parts being sold for it online but I didn’t find any single eBay ad with the motor. After a while I managed to source an electronics module for it which costs some money. But me having zero experience with quartz movements - I have no clue what isn’t working on it.

Going to omega service is not an option - this is my DIY project and I don’t want to pay over 800 bucks for the official restoration. I am planning on repainting the black dial myself with a microscope, micron by micron and blueing (blackening) the scratches places chemically. But I really don’t know what to do and I have so many questions.

1. I found a watch with a 1325 movement - are they identical in size? Many parts are interchangeable, but not the electronics module. I don’t care about the value, the watch is for me
2. I can pay over 300 bucks for a watch that 100% has the same movement - but don’t want to. Do I have to? What would you do?
3. The crown is broken and only the inner pusher is left. The outer turny wheely thing is gone. What watch could be the best donor?
4. Shall I risk and buy the electronics module? What is the probability that it’s not that what’s broken, but the motor? There is no motor on the internet.
5. Do you know exactly which other watches had precisely the 1320 movement?
6. What is the way to find out what’s exactly broken?

I am including the pictures of my watch inside (it’s square), right after that a photo of my watch from the internet - and right after that the watches that might have the same movement for people to see. Can some kind soul help me find any solution? I am going insane over it.
Thank you to everyone here!


My watch:

Internet picture:




Similar watches I found:

 
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Going off of:
https://www.emmywatch.com/wp-conten...inc/documents/omega--1320--movement_parts.pdf
https://www.emmywatch.com/wp-conten...inc/documents/omega--1325--movement_parts.pdf

1325 has a different main plate, date wheel, stem, stem-spring, electronic module, and casing clamp screw.

They both list the size as well, looks like the 1320 is not round entirely and is 18.2mm x 20mm x 6mm.
1325 is significantly larger at 25.6mm(round) x 6mm.

No idea on the rest of it.
 
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Going off of:
https://www.emmywatch.com/wp-conten...inc/documents/omega--1320--movement_parts.pdf
https://www.emmywatch.com/wp-conten...inc/documents/omega--1325--movement_parts.pdf

1325 has a different main plate, date wheel, stem, stem-spring, electronic module, and casing clamp screw.

They both list the size as well, looks like the 1320 is not round entirely and is 18.2mm x 20mm x 6mm.
1325 is significantly larger at 25.6mm(round) x 6mm.

No idea on the rest of it.
I am able to buy smaller parts. Do you think it’s possible to buy only the stem and little round thingy for it? Then I would just get an IC module.
Thank you so much!
 
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I am able to buy smaller parts. Do you think it’s possible to buy only the stem and little round thingy for it? Then I would just get an IC module.
Thank you so much!
Ebay has quite a few of the 1320 stems for sale, about $25. It'll need trimming obviously (which takes a little bit of skill).

By the round thingy, do you mean the crown? I THINK that is a 196.055, right? If so, part should be ST43270 (or LA instead of ST for yellow), and Otto Frei has one for $48.
 
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Lucky lucky. I have gone quartz crazy myself. Would love to find one of these megaquartz cheap.

Currently I am in the process of restoring a 1655 money pit which shares parts with 1365. What I found was Omega published some technical manuals which for some reason have 'manual wind' in the title. These can be a bit tricky to find. They do show up from time to time on eBay (and if one is lucky the seller photographs all the pages. which is useful for auctions what ended.) I see there is a full binder for sale in the UK https://www.ebay.com/itm/166931436485



Bit outside my price range, especially for information that I think should be free or a minimal handling fee. (At one time US law required manufactures to make schematics available. The local library had a wall of Sam's Photo Facts.)

Most of these documents are fairly boiler plate. So one can get the general feel for how these work. As noted in many of my recent threads I am building my own test diagnostics machines for these. If you do a search here on OF for alitest and deltatest. Omega made some machines specifically for working on these. Especially the non 32768 movements.

The tricky part is figuring out how the inductive pickups work. Simple tests with a scope can often tell if the system is oscillation, although the probes pull things off with capacitive coupling.

The wire in the motor coils though is really fine. I have a coil winding machine for pipe organ magnets which are a scale larger and several scales smaller in resistance (40 to 120 ohms vs the 1.2 to 1.5k in a watch coil.)

I have 4 134x motors with infinite resistance. Unfortunately the cover plate is spot welded in place. Most likely the break is close to the contactors, but next to impossible to re-solder.

Curiously one ot the 1342 movements has an identical broken stem. The 1365 what arrived in the mailbox a bit less than an hour ago says missing dial (but I think they meant stem and crown.) It looks like the button pusher is missing. The crownless 1365 confuses a lot of people.
 
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