Did I make a mistake in purchasing a re-dial on Ebay? (Omega 2576-1 with Breguet Numerals)

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I've been on the hunt for a 2576-1 in this good condition with patina like this. Breguet Numerals get me excited. It seemed like the perfect auction to keep my eyes on. What especially drew me in was the fact that there's some a clear outline of the hands on the dial (i.e. lume damage). But it's subtle enough that it feels so natural.

I was in a rush to purchase this watch and won the Ebay auction. The only thing that concerned me (initially) was the fact that the watch case was swapped. However, the seller is providing the original case, so I'll make a trip to a local jewelry store to swap cases.

However, upon closer inspection, I noticed that some of the lettering might be off. Specifically, the first "T" in "AUTOMATIC" seems mis-centered. This raised a red flag to me. The patina looked so natural that I forgot to look at the lettering...

What do you guys think? When I look at other examples of 2576-1 of the era, it seems like this was a common misalignment? In other words, maybe this is indeed purely genuine? However, I'd like to know the truth: did I purchase a re-dial or not?

Thank you for your help.
 
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I think it's just a U.S. Omega as I learned from @MtV

The issue you see in my opinion is from the dirt
 
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I'm not sure I understand what happened here:

1. You bought the watch with an extra case? I guess that's like buying a suit with 2 pairs of pants. A nice bonus.

2. The dial looks original to me for a Ref. 2576. It has "Swiss" rather than "Swiss Made" at the bottom. This usually indicates a US model.

3. Are there any pictures of the inside of the caseback of the case the watch is currently using? Is this also a Ref. 2576? It certainly looks like one.

Even if it is the more common Ref. 2577 (same case with a cal. 351 center seconds movement), the original 2576 caseback should fit, and then you would have the best of both worlds.
gatorcpa

PS - I suggest that you look at the pictures of the watch in this post:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/opinions-on-this-omega-ref-2576-4-pre-seamaster.112290/

The first "T" in Automatic is also slightly offline. The QC on Omega watches around 1950 is not the same is it is today,
 
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Dial is original. The extra case was a nice bonus. He could have sold that separately and you would have been none the wiser.
 
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As noted above, the dial looks fine. I think there's a reason the case was swapped.
 
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As noted above, the dial looks fine. I think there's a reason the case was swapped.
I assume you are taking about this?

D4C7189A-4328-4352-B2A1-F2BF6D158A98.png
 
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Look again, it's redialed, and there's a tell. Took me about 45 min before I saw it.
Let’s not play games. Out with it.
gatorcpa
 
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Thank you for the quick responses, everyone. The seller said that they swapped the case because the 2766-1 case is a "beefier lug." I prefer the original case, so I plan to swap it back.

It's reassuring to know that the dial looks fine. I didn't know tolerances might've left some slightly off-aligned lettering. It might also be my eyes playing tricks on me because of the dirt. I personally don't mind the little specks. They add some character?

New to this whole vintage collecting journey, so I appreciate all the pointers.

I'm attaching pictures of the original (2576-1) case. It looks in good enough condition and unbrushed, which is what attracted me to it. There's also the 2766-1 caseback he posted a picture of. Again, I think he said it was because he preferred the "beefier" lugs of the 2766-1. Feels a bit too Franken for my taste though.

Also, quick question: how much should a case swap cost in your opinions? Just want to make sure the jeweler I go to won't charge something too out of line.
 
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Let’s not play games. Out with it.
gatorcpa

You have reinstall the short indices at 5 and 7 when you're done, if you put the long indices in 5 and 7 they overhang the subdial and look stupid.

One of the shorties is at 10 instead.
 
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Look again, it's redialed, and there's a tell. Took me about 45 min before I saw it.

You're killing me here 😁

You have reinstall the short indices at 5 and 7 when you're done, if you put the long indices in 5 and 7 they overhang the subdial and look stupid.

One of the shorties is at 10 instead.

Any advice? Do you think it's worth moving it back in place? Or should I just live with it. What's seen cannot be unseen 🙁
 
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Also, quick question: how much should a case swap cost in your opinions? Just want to make sure the jeweler I go to won't charge something too out of line.
Comes free with the service you'll be paying for.
 
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Comes free with the service you'll be paying for.

Not sure if the watch needs servicing is the thing. I think the seller said it kept good time at the moment? Worth checking though.

I might just wear it Franken style until it needs servicing and swap then.
 
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You have reinstall the short indices at 5 and 7 when you're done, if you put the long indices in 5 and 7 they overhang the subdial and look stupid.

One of the shorties is at 10 instead.
6CC66028-91CE-4C7B-9717-2025B7289D6B.png 0E2C03CB-C27D-4DBD-8E25-8B38E4FB2195.png 3B6B1494-420D-4A35-AAAE-9F9E9FADD08B.jpeg
 
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Look again, it's redialed, and there's a tell. Took me about 45 min before I saw it.
I’m impressed you spent 45 mins looking at this dial.
 
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I looked and saw several Breguet numeral dials with “hangover” markers.

upload_2022-6-1_22-23-46.jpeg

But even if @sleepyastronaut is correct regarding the long and short markers, that alone doesn’t make it a redial. It is possible that one or more markers fell off and were reattached in the wrong position.

The dial printing looks correct and the lume looks crumbly and old, like one would expect.
gatorcpa
 
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..........The QC on Omega watches around 1950 is not the same is it is today,

I think that explains it.
 
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It is possible that one or more markers fell off and were reattached in the wrong position.

Agreed. There is a scratch under this marker which is absolutely indicative of a marker falling off and then reattached.

Screenshot_20220601-191506_Samsung Internet.jpg