Decoding a model number

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Brand new to the vintage Omega Seamaster collecting/maintaining hobby. Starting with these to learn about bumper movements and I'm more interested in the process than the value or reselling for profit. I was able to decode the serial numbers, but can someone help me with the meaning of the model numbers?

I picked the cal. 342 as a starting point because it seemed to have plenty of parts and listings on the cheaper end. Any red flags using the 342 as my entry point?


1950 Omega 2576-12 cal. 342, serial no. 12062342 (pictures attached)
- What does the "-12" mean? And what would "-14" mean?
- The case says "Acier Staybrite" - basically means stainless steel, right?
- General thoughts/observations about the pictured watch? Fun facts about this model? What do vintage Omega lovers like yourselves think of this watch in general?

1947? Omega F6212 W135729 cal. 342, serial no. 11885812 (pictures attached)
- F = gold filled?
- What does "W135729" refer to?
- There are a few etchings on the case: "RM-101" (best interpretation), "8548", "WP|85204" (maybe a "d" at the end instead of "4")
- General thoughts/observations about the pictured watch? Fun facts about this model? What do vintage Omega lovers like yourselves think of this watch in general?


Thanks everyone! I'm excited to jump in and learn a lot.


2576-12





F6212
 
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To my understanding -12 -14 or -anything is to be thought of as a 'version' of the watch. Acier Staybrite was/is a brand of metal referring to a particular steel alloy containing also chrome, nickel and carbon. Acier inoxydable would refer to what in English is known broadly as stainless steel. Etchings are quite common and usually refer to watchmakers having serviced the watch at some point. To my understanding there is no general system to these other than that of each individual watchmaker.

About the two watches in question: I'm afraid that they both have been redialled quite poorly, are overly polished and have very dirty movements. Are they yours or just some you have been looking at to learn? Also, you refer to these as Seamasters - how come?
Edited:
 
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About the two watches in question: I'm afraid that they both have been redialled quite poorly, are overly polished and have very dirty movements. Are they yours or just some you have been looking at to learn? Also, you refer to these as Seamasters - how come?

Yeah, my bad on the "Seamasters" part. I was typing up two posts at the same time (one about Seamasters) and got them mixed up. Good catch!

These are watches I'm starting with to learn how to clean, calibrate, maintain, and repair. I didn't want to get anything too collectible or precious for my first try. I fully expect to make plenty of mistakes. But I hope these will give me plenty of practice with low risk. I'm collecting a lot of resources to get started on these. If you have any recommended links, guides, or personal tips, they would be greatly appreciated!

And if you're a professional, or if there are other professionals or expert level amateurs, I'd be happy to compensate you for your time and maybe even arrange some zoom tutorials/lessons.
 
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S Sean12
Yeah, my bad on the "Seamasters" part. I was typing up two posts at the same time (one about Seamasters) and got them mixed up. Good catch!

These are watches I'm starting with to learn how to clean, calibrate, maintain, and repair. I didn't want to get anything too collectible or precious for my first try. I fully expect to make plenty of mistakes. But I hope these will give me plenty of practice with low risk. I'm collecting a lot of resources to get started on these. If you have any recommended links, guides, or personal tips, they would be greatly appreciated!

And if you're a professional, or if there are other professionals or expert level amateurs, I'd be happy to compensate you for your time and maybe even arrange some zoom tutorials/lessons.
I see - I am no professional but have learned a great deal about small repairs and the like from watching YouTube videos. I of course don't know how much you paid for the two pieces but a kind word of caution: with most vintage pieces the main value is in the dial as a re-printed dial cannot be repaired and most vintage collectors would never accept a redial except if the watch was very rare and an example with an original dial was almost impossible to find (and in that case the redial would have to be of great quality).
 
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Really good to know. I'm hoping to be ready for a piece with true value after practicing on movements/parts of a few practice watches. I was just planning on turning them into gifts for family or friends once I'm done with these iffy watches.
 
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F6212 is a US-collection watch with a US-made Wadsworth case (pretty sure) and that would correspond to a reference in a US catalog.

Interestingly, it says they made a chronometer version with a caliber 344 movement.