D O 90 After Market ?

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Nice way to compare a relatively new member as a cartoon character.
Thanks. Now regarding that watch. The hands are pretty crappy. I’d be worried about them too as I so expect they won’t look much better IRL.
 
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Thanks. Now regarding that watch. The hands are pretty crappy. I’d be worried about them too as I so expect they won’t look much better IRL.
Hard to say from the overexposed photo, but the dial may be washed. No lume.
 
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Isn't D O 90 a good clue?
FIrst time I've seen someone use this abbreviation.
'DON' or 'Dot over 90' are the commonly used phrases to describe the insert that I have seen in the last 20 years.


From that one shot, comparing it to my own, I would be inclined to say it's genuine. But as others have pointed out, impossible to say just from that.
Would be periodically correct to the step dial.

If it's a reputable seller...
 
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Firstly, regardless as to whether you think AM is a commonly used abbreviation, You’re getting lots of feedback that people didn’t know what you meant. Rather than argue against it when you’re asking for help, it might just be better to accept you made an assumption that was wrong and move on. It needn’t be a big deal but you’re making it one.
For what’s it’s worth, it took me a few minutes to work out what you’re asking as I’ve never seen ‘AM’ used to describe counterfeit/aftermarket parts.

Regarding the bezel, there are tells for a fake DON bezel but your image is too poor to say with confidence whether it’s real or fake.
 
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Here we go again with the new member bashing and it is the usual people doing it. That post wasnt too hard to understand and didnt look like it was written by a little girl from Springfield, or what ever you managed to get out of that post. Have a bit more patience or dont respond at all.
 
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Looking at the OP photo, it is hard to be 100% sure, but from what I see I am on balance leaning toward original, with the characteristics being explained by being a later print on the machine, producing a thicker font. I would like to see an in focus shot of the lower bezel to be sure. This is not the "thin font" type that I prefer. Usually seen on early watches, the thin font bezels are perhaps as they are just because they were made when machines were new, I don't know.

What I do know is that I desire a thin font bezel more than a thick font like this. The thin font bezels are also easier to verify.
 
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I have to admit when I saw "A M" in the subject, I thought: ante meridiem. As in "a.m."
My first thought was "Air Ministry," as in the 6B/159 watches.
 
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Here we go again with the new member bashing and it is the usual people doing it. That post wasnt too hard to understand and didnt look like it was written by a little girl from Springfield, or what ever you managed to get out of that post. Have a bit more patience or dont respond at all.
Having been a new member across dozens of forums over my adult life, a new user gets exactly what they put in. Truthfully, the title and original post looked slapped together and was lacking such critical details that I thought it was a typo or mistakenly posted. Once challenged, a simple "Sorry, I'm used to using A M (is that even an abbreviation, two disparate, separate capitalized letters?) in a another forum to describe aftermarket items. Didn't realize it wasnt used here." Then, clearly state their concerns. Instead, they challenge responding members to the veracity of the alleged abbreviation. This all despite the fact that the original post was nigh on impossible to comprehend without that valuable context. Other than that, the picture provided is not good enough for requested purpose. I mean, I've posted some dumb threads, been called out, and I've moved on or provided detail and context to see if I can salvage the effort. I don't get an attitude about it, even if I'm disappointed.

OP, you might have to insist on specific and better pictures. If not to get help here, for your own due diligence. Even then, you might not see what you need to in enough detail. Frankly, if the seller refuses, then you should pass on it.
 
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Here we go again with the new member bashing and it is the usual people doing it. That post wasnt too hard to understand and didnt look like it was written by a little girl from Springfield, or what ever you managed to get out of that post. Have a bit more patience or dont respond at all.
Thank you for your kind words.
 
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Looking at the OP photo, it is hard to be 100% sure, but from what I see I am on balance leaning toward original, with the characteristics being explained by being a later print on the machine, producing a thicker font. I would like to see an in focus shot of the lower bezel to be sure. This is not the "thin font" type that I prefer. Usually seen on early watches, the thin font bezels are perhaps as they are just because they were made when machines were new, I don't know.

What I do know is that I desire a thin font bezel more than a thick font like this. The thin font bezels are also easier to verify.
Totally agree with you, a thinner font have been preferable, and thank you for your kind answer.
 
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Hard to say from the overexposed photo, but the dial may be washed. No lume.
There are some lume on the dial according to this crappy seller pic, and washed dial, does Speedmaster dials have laquer on them? please explain for me.
 
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It might be perfectly cromulent
Cromulent! I love adding new words to my vocabulary. Good one 👍
 
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There are some lume on the dial according to this crappy seller pic, and washed dial, does Speedmaster dials have laquer on them? please explain for me.

“Washed” means that the lume has been removed (doesn’t appear to be the case here based on this photo), nothing to do with lacquer.
 
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Here is a GIF of the comparator view.
Not really apples to apples based on differences in focal length and sensor position but you can get a feel for it. This method can give a holistic and intuitive approach to spotting obvious errors. Images that are not orthogonal to sensor also need to be geometrically adjusted to match which adds error and uncertainty.
Also attached is a @Spacefruit bezel and my baseline reference.

 
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Here is a GIF of the comparator view.
Not really apples to apples based on differences in focal length and sensor position but you can get a feel for it. This method can give a holistic and intuitive approach to spotting obvious errors. Images that are not orthogonal to sensor also need to be geometrically adjusted to match which adds error and uncertainty.
Also attached is a @Spacefruit bezel and my baseline reference.

I say the same as redpcar, cool, in my untrained eyes it doesn't jump around that much, except for the fatter and blurry fonts, so counterfeit or not?
 
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Here we go again with the new member bashing and it is the usual people doing it. That post wasnt too hard to understand and didnt look like it was written by a little girl from Springfield, or what ever you managed to get out of that post. Have a bit more patience or dont respond at all.
I am riding here with @hen !!
Let us start 2026 with some patience regarding new members who might have a different way of asking things?
In the end, we do love watches??

And to the OP - try and get more pictures from the seller, the more you get, the more answers you will get from the Forum!
And have patience with the Old and Grumpy crew....😉
 
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Here we go again with the new member bashing and it is the usual people doing it. That post wasnt too hard to understand and didnt look like it was written by a little girl from Springfield, or what ever you managed to get out of that post. Have a bit more patience or dont respond at all.
I am riding here with @hen !!

The forum police have arrived. Not helpful, but definitely authoritative.
 
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The forum police have arrived. Not helpful, but definitely authoritative.
Thanks Dan, your comforting words always make me a better person!
And I hope 2026 will be a great year for you!
👍👍👍
 
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The forum police have arrived. Not helpful, but definitely authoritative.
You are under arrest Dirty Dan!