Condition Condition Condition And Other Pieces Of Advice

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i dont know how to find out any info on my vintage ladies omega watch i cant find it anywhere on the net
 
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You take pictures and start a thread in the VIntage Omega forum to show everyone what you've got. Information, interspersed with wise-ass remarks, will follow.
 
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Information, interspersed with wise-ass remarks, will follow.

Ahhh, the spice of life......... (the remarks not the information.....馃槈)
 
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So, when you say not to polish, I take it you mean machine polish? Is there any harm in polishing at home with metal polish? I polish my Yachtmaster every two to three months and the grime and tarnish that come off the band are embarrassing! A little metal polish and the steam cleaner make my watch look pretty spiffy and not the least bit damaged or "thinner".
 
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馃榾馃榾
So, when you say not to polish, I take it you mean machine polish? Is there any harm in polishing at home with metal polish? I polish my Yachtmaster every two to three months and the grime and tarnish that come off the band are embarrassing! A little metal polish and the steam cleaner make my watch look pretty spiffy and not the least bit damaged or "thinner".
I also do that to my watches specially to silver cased ones as they oxidaze pretty quickly. I don't see any harm on that.
 
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There's a big difference between 'polishing' and 'cleaning'. Do take the gunk & grime off. Don't remove the crisp edges.
 
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Hmmmnnn......good idea...great idea! Let's all buy watches (eventually) that we are too scared to wear, that we can put away until they are worn and scratched by people after we are dead... Watches are to be worn and enjoyed, not hoarded away. Buy what you like, regardless if it has it's original tag.
 
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Those who hoard most definitely also wear! Everyone I know who hoards gets to that point usually after many years of learning, loving and yes most definitely wearing these beauties.
 
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Those who hoard most definitely also wear! Everyone I know who hoards gets to that point usually after many years of learning, loving and yes most definitely wearing these beauties.

Speaking of which, are we going to have the privilege of seeing you post in the WRUW thread? 馃榿
 
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Great advise and input, I'm a newb and have been very care full not to get caught in the emotional buy! Feedback and advise like this highly regarded! Good stuff!!!
 
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If there is one thing to remember forever in collecting vintage omegas, it is that condition is first and foremost. Of course the piece has to be original in the first place but if there is one lesson that has been imparted to me and one I wish to pass on it is that.

As I have stated in another thread, it is far better to overpay for an excellent original vintage omega than to underpay for one in below average or average condition. My greatest regrets in this hobby have been not overpaying for excellent examples - if only I could raise my offer some more for these long gone and in many cases never to be seen for sale again examples.

Other rules I TRY to live by:

Better to have 1 excellent piece than 3-4 so-so ones.

Never sell to a dealer - you will never get close to what your watch is worth.

Ebay is the best place to get nice vintage omegas at reasonable prices IF and only IF you have the knowledge and patience to sift through the many many crappy pieces.

If you do not know the seller always pay via paypal using your credit card - that way you will have some recourse if the deal goes wrong - and if you do enough deals something will inevitably not go your way.

You should have 1 or 2 trusted watchmakers preferably someone local. And when you have something repaired be explicit about what you want done and not done - I attach an index card with written instructions for every watch I have serviced - want to make sure everything is crystal clear.

Hi, do you ever buy a vintage speedmaster pre moon w/out seeing the movement? Most times people don't show the movement but everything esle seems ok? Thank you
 
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Hi, do you ever buy a vintage speedmaster pre moon w/out seeing the movement? Most times people don't show the movement but everything esle seems ok? Thank you
A bad 321 movement can be a nightmare to fix and a serial number that doesn't fit with the age of the watch can significantly reduce the value of it so especially on a 321 I'd be wanting a squiz at that movement.
 
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A bad 321 movement can be a nightmare to fix and a serial number that doesn't fit with the age of the watch can significantly reduce the value of it so especially on a 321 I'd be wanting a squiz at that movement.

Ok, then it's not worth the risk in your opinion even though the seller states that it has the correct movement? If you do get a picture of the movement how can you tell if the movement is bad by looking at pictures if you're not a watchmaker? Sorry, if you think it's a dumb question to ask. I just became a member of nawcc and i want to be able to go to shows and know what to look for. Thank you
 
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Ok, then it's not worth the risk in your opinion even though the seller states that it has the correct movement? If you do get a picture of the movement how can you tell if the movement is bad by looking at pictures if you're not a watchmaker? Sorry, if you think it's a dumb question to ask. I just became a member of nawcc and i want to be able to go to shows and know what to look for. Thank you
There are No dumb questions here.
 
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Ok, then it's not worth the risk in your opinion even though the seller states that it has the correct movement? If you do get a picture of the movement how can you tell if the movement is bad by looking at pictures if you're not a watchmaker? Sorry, if you think it's a dumb question to ask. I just became a member of nawcc and i want to be able to go to shows and know what to look for. Thank you
I'd compare the serial to the age and subreference of the watch, make sure that matches. Then check some of the other features like the coupling yoke, which is symmetrical for early pre-pros and asymmetrical for later movements. Then as a non-watchmaker I just look for missing screws, missing or damaged components, obvious abuse like screwdriver gouges or wrecked screwheads and rust. I can't evaluate its condition the way a watchmaker could but if I can see several parts missing or damaged or rust over the steel components I can get a basic idea of whether its a nice clean movement or a junker.
 
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There are No dumb questions here.

That is good to know. I know certain forums, some members beat you up because they think you should be more knowledgeable before posting questions. Thank you
 
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I'd compare the serial to the age and subreference of the watch, make sure that matches. Then check some of the other features like the coupling yoke, which is symmetrical for early pre-pros and asymmetrical for later movements. Then as a non-watchmaker I just look for missing screws, missing or damaged components, obvious abuse like screwdriver gouges or wrecked screwheads and rust. I can't evaluate its condition the way a watchmaker could but if I can see several parts missing or damaged or rust over the steel components I can get a basic idea of whether its a nice clean movement or a junker.

Ok, that sounds reasonable. Do you just look at a 321 movement picture then study it and try to remember what it should look like then?
 
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Ok, that sounds reasonable. Do you just look at a 321 movement picture then study it and try to remember what it should look like then?
Take this one for example, someone paid a lot but there are several missing parts and the movement looks in generally crummy condition

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-O...449408387?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item20ef0aaf83

Compare those pics to this shot of a clean 321 and you'll quickly start spotting the difference

tumblr_mgvaetr8YJ1royoxho1_500.jpg
 
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