I have a major business milestone coming up soon and have decided that it is the right opportunity to get my first Omega piece, but I can't decide which one.

The 3 pieces are Speedy Professional Moonwatch. Either the hesalite or sapphire sandwich- but that decision will be made if I decide to go with this piece.

The 2nd is the Speedy Pro Moonphase (3576.50). Dresses it up a bit and I'm a sucker for the moonphase complication.

3rd is the Speedmaster Moonphase (304.30). Again, Moonphase. Plus anti magnetic and modern movement technology.

This watch will be my primary every day/business watch. I'm a big fan of NASA and the connection here (especially with the original Speedy Pro) cannot be ignored. The question I have is this: does the newer Speedmaster carry the same horological significance as the original, or does it forge its own path? I'm looking for a watch that will travel the world with me on business and pleasure trips and make its own story, and one day be passed down to my son. They all have their appeal, which is why I am at an impasse. What do you guys think?

Other watch in my collection is a Frederique Workdtimer (silver dial) on a blue croc.

I appreciate your input!

Jason

 

Only 2 Omegas carry NASA significance. The 42mm speedy pro and 2 of the X33 models. Both are still currently approved by NASA for space flight among watches from other brands, and the Pro is still the only EVA certified watch by NASA.

What exactly do you mean by horological significance? Movement technology?

 

Significance as in the watch that was NASA approved to go to the moon. The co-axial movement is much more modern and the anti gauss rating is somewhat helpful for me (I have a Grand Carrera that has been magnetized twice now).

 

Well 2 watches where known to be worn on the moon. A bulova and a few Speedmaster pros. Only the Speedmasters where approved.

Depending on how far you want to go down the rabbit hole technically only 321 movement Speedmasters where worn on the moon. At least one 861 went around the moon and the 861 was recertified in @1978 for the shuttle and worn on EVAs till modern times. There is some debate that NASA no longer uses watches on EVA's but you can clearly see 861 Speedmasters being worn externally on take off and landing.

 

I do understand that, but the model, regardless of the movement, carries that significance.

 

I'll have a crack at this...

So first, it's always helpful in a post like this to include images of the watches in question. A quick note to disclose: I am an incredibly biased owner of the present Hesalite Moonwatch.

First up... the classic Moonwatch:


Why you'd want this?

The history behind it is a major reason many choose this watch, but there are lots of things to like.

Rock solid, reliable movement (not chronometer certified, mind you... mine runs 8 secs fast per day). Unparalleled legibility. The ultimate strap watch (seriously, it looks incredible with almost any strap you can throw at it).

Also, many love the way Hesalite adds character to the watch... the way it distorts light when viewed at an angle. Hesalite, while easily scratched, can be buffed out to brand new with about five minutes of your time and some Polywatch. Also, if it ever was damaged beyond repair, a replacement crystal will run you less than $100.

Finally, at 42mm. but being relatively short lug to lug, it wears very nicely on a variety of wrist sizes.

Oh, and it's the cheapest of your stated options.

Next up... the current Moonwatch with a sapphire crystal:



Look familiar??? Yep... Omega's website photos make this one look just like the Hesalite version. Thing is, in the metal the overall look is altered by the sapphire crystal.

There is a milky ring created by the sapphire around the inside of the tach bezel. Once I saw it, I was never able to unsee it and it's not something that appeals to me.

Pros are this one comes with an exhibition caseback so you can gaze longingly for hours on end at the gloriously finished variant of the 1861 (is it 1863?).

Because the sapphire front is better at transmitting light, the experience of admiring the dial is quite different. To my eyes, the dial looks a much deeper black... it's really nice.

Sapphire is nearly resistant to scratches, so that's nice, but is susceptible to cracking, which is both not nice and very expensive - like in the $1000 (?) or more range, I believe.



Next up is the Speedy Pro Moonphase.

Same 42mm case width...

Like you, I love a good moonphase. This one is particularly lovely... I really like the colour of the blue sky.

The thing for me about this variant is the placement of the "Speedmaster Professional" text. It looks awkward to me (two fonts, weird positioning on the dial) and I can't get over that so, on to the next...



This is a very very cool watch. No doubt about it. The little touches of red on the dial. No issues with text placement. Kind of a perfect design, really.

The issues to consider are:

It's a large watch... 44.25mm and it wears tall because of the automatic movement. You need a decent sized wrist - like 7" or above - to pull this one off. It's large enough that I think the size reduces the appeal of wearing it with a suit. My opinion... actual owners may beg to differ.

Sapphire crystal. Not sure if the milky ring rears its (subjectively) ugly head with this one.

The movement is apparently amazing.

One thing though... it's damned expensive. Like, you could buy a Tudor Black Bay to go along with your Hesalite Speedy for the price of this one!

So there you have it. Four guesses which one I'd buy

 

You seem to answer your own question. Get the original hesalite.

 

Fantastic info, thank you! All 4 pieces are in my price range, and as I'm looking for a single watch to wear all the time (summer at the lakehouse to business attire), the idea of getting 2 watches for the same cost isn't a factor. Weird, I know.

I absolutely agree with your assessment of the Speedy Pro Moonphase text. I don't like where the text had to be moved to. Other than that, it's nearly perfect. I am being quite picky here, I admit. But I want this to speak to the occasion it represents in my life, which is rather significant.

The Speedmaster Moonphase is a very thick watch. I can pull it off, but only just. I have a 6.8" wrist. It won't go under my shirt cuff, which is a factor.

 

I would go with 304.30. It has a cool moonphase and is also an automatic watch.
I have the adventurine moon phase Speedy (311.30.44.32.01.001) and while I love the aesthetic it is annoying that it is not automatic and a full wind lasts a little under 48 hours. It is the same size as the 304.30 and it does not wear big. I would also definitely only buy a model with a sapphire crystal--if this is going to be an everyday watch u will need the scratch resistance.

 

Good input, thank you! The other factor is that the "original" Moonwatch doesn't have a date. Which I do use often enough to where not having it would be annoying.

 

For the Speedy Moonphase (with moon at 12) you should consider that the central chronograph hand naturally rests at 12.

So it will cover the already quite small Moonphase unless it's been engaged. Not a massive deal, and easily solved, of course.

If the last Moonphase won't fit under a cuff then surely that's a non-starter? You want it for business wear. Again, that's easily solved by wearing a double cuffed shirt with the added bonus of wearing cufflinks

 

Normally, yes. But this one is so beautiful I think I'd be ok with making it an exception.

Also, I have tried on all 4 watches. No help eliminating any.

 

7 inch wrist wants a date...

Speedmaster 57? Same size as the pro minus the crown guard. Automatic with date.

Same basic look as the Moonwatch with 2 instead of 3 sub dials. It comes in 15 flavors.

I've got 7.5 inch wrists and anything over 42mm is bulky. I've got 3 watches at 42 that all wear differently due to proportions, but they work. I own a 45.5mm that is purely casual wear due to size. I'd not go over 42mm for an all purpose sport and business watch.

 

Yeah, I'm aware of the "rule" about sizes. I think it's more about size ratio. Years ago, people said not to go over 38mm for a gents professional watch.

I hadn't even considered the '57. Not a bad option.

 

Not a rule just as someone that owns a 45.5 Planet Ocean Chrono, I've been watching trends towards smaller watches. 42mm has always been good looking while on the large size historically. Hell my 4'11 ex rocked a ceramic 48mm and it looked great on her stupid on me and it was a mans watch. It's all about proportions, there are a few long lug to lug 42mm watches that wear big on me. Lug to lug and height are just as important.

Newer watches are trending back down again. Mostly due to the influence of collectors finding a sweet spot underv42mm. At the end of the day it's your watch and your money. I'm just passing along what I have experienced.

 

And then I discover something like this....

https://www.omegawatches.com/fileadmin/Watches/Product_Sheet/en/31130445001001-en.pdf

 

Great movement but it's big.

 

It is. But it might be the right compromise for me. I need to go try on the 44mm Speedy again. Might swing by the boutique in Dallas later today.

 

Always a display case back, when given the choice! Speedy movement is beautiful to look at. That 44mm Speedmaster looks awesome though in the pics, but I have yet to see one in person.

 

Ok, went to the boutique in Dallas today... here are a few wrist shots. What do you guys think?



Previous shot with the Speedie Pro