Can/Should I use Polywatch on my 1966 Chronostop crystal?

Posts
9
Likes
3
Hi All,

New member here. I've just bought a 1966 Geneve Chronostop (145.010). It's in pretty good condition given its age, but the crystal has some marks and scratches. Should I use something ike Polywatch to remove these? Or it is better to leave them to retain its authentic vintage look and feel?

Thanks for your advice.
 
Posts
10,240
Likes
16,037
Every watch deserves a clear crystal. Yes go for it.
 
Posts
839
Likes
3,401
It wouldn't hurt in my opinion, but if the scratches are too deep, all Polywatch will do is to round the edges of them. To get rid of deep scratches, you will need to cut more into the acrylic using a more abrasive method like wet sanding with a series of coarse to fine sand paper and finish with Polywatch or a similar product.
 
Posts
665
Likes
3,451
Welcome. Use the search function to look up polywatch. It might help guide your decision.
 
Posts
8,266
Likes
67,816
And let us know how you get on - ideally with before and after pics
 
Posts
3,495
Likes
8,760
New member here. I've just bought a 1966 Geneve Chronostop (145.010). It's in pretty good condition given its age, but the crystal has some marks and scratches. Should I use something ike Polywatch to remove these? Or it is better to leave them to retain its authentic vintage look and feel?

To me an authentic look and feel is that it's clean, fully readable, working well and ready for action -- especially for chronographs. Tools y'see. So since 1970 my watches get exterior cleaned and crystal polished regularly. I don't knock them about as much as I used to so they don't need crystal checked so often, perhaps about every three years now instead of annually.

I've always used silver polish wadding, mainly because there's always been a tin somewhere around. Takes longer than Polywatch is expected to but it can always be done when there's time to spare, for example while listening to the news on the radio as I'm doing at this moment.
 
Posts
2,657
Likes
5,353
Go for it. You will be pleasantly surprised with the results.
 
Posts
9
Likes
3
It wouldn't hurt in my opinion, but if the scratches are too deep, all Polywatch will do is to round the edges of them. To get rid of deep scratches, you will need to cut more into the acrylic using a more abrasive method like wet sanding with a series of coarse to fine sand paper and finish with Polywatch or a similar product.
Thanks, Rendo. What grit sandpapers would you recommend I start and finish with?
 
Posts
9
Likes
3
Welcome. Use the search function to look up polywatch. It might help guide your decision.
That sounds ominous...!
 
Posts
9
Likes
3
To me an authentic look and feel is that it's clean, fully readable, working well and ready for action -- especially for chronographs. Tools y'see. So since 1970 my watches get exterior cleaned and crystal polished regularly. I don't knock them about as much as I used to so they don't need crystal checked so often, perhaps about every three years now instead of annually.

I've always used silver polish wadding, mainly because there's always been a tin somewhere around. Takes longer than Polywatch is expected to but it can always be done when there's time to spare, for example while listening to the news on the radio as I'm doing at this moment.
Huh! Didn't know you could use silver polish wadding on the crystal. Do you use it on the case as well? And is there any reason you prefer it over Polywatch (other than that you always have some around)?
 
Posts
3,495
Likes
8,760
Huh! Didn't know you could use silver polish wadding on the crystal. Do you use it on the case as well? And is there any reason you prefer it over Polywatch (other than that you always have some around)?
Case and bracelet. It's suprising how much tarnish builds up on bracelets and the wadding will improve minor scratches too. I always have some wadding around because it's good for light work on aluminium bicycle parts too, although not as good as Belgum Alu for heavy tarnish. And compared to Polywatch and Belgum Alu a darn sight cheaper.
 
Posts
839
Likes
3,401
Thanks, Rendo. What grit sandpapers would you recommend I start and finish with?
Wet sanding with 1000 / 1500 / 2000 / 2500 grit and finishing with Polywatch has worked well for me, but it really depends on how deep the scratches are.
 
Posts
13,461
Likes
52,948
Make sure you mask all but the crystal .
 
Posts
2,657
Likes
5,353
I would just try Polywatch first, before getting into the sandpaper. Sometimes 3 or 4 sessions does the trick even with pretty significant scratches. You can always escalate later
Show us picture of the specimen maybe?
 
Posts
870
Likes
893
I would just try Polywatch first, before getting into the sandpaper. Sometimes 3 or 4 sessions does the trick even with pretty significant scratches. You can always escalate later.
This.

And as noted upthread, make sure you mask off anything you don't want to polish, such as the bezel.

And definitely do not use a rotary tool like a Dremel. This is a project that calls for good old elbow grease. Be patient and you will be rewarded.
 
Posts
9
Likes
3
I would just try Polywatch first, before getting into the sandpaper. Sometimes 3 or 4 sessions does the trick even with pretty significant scratches. You can always escalate later
Show us picture of the specimen maybe?
Here’s a pic - scratches actually look more dramatic here than in real life.

Polywatch arrived yesterday so will give it a go.

 
Posts
3,495
Likes
8,760
And definitely do not use a rotary tool like a Dremel.

You just need a light touch, that's all.

 
Posts
9
Likes
3
Just tried the Polywatch and am thrilled with the results. Thanks for all the advice, folks.

Next question! There are minor scuffs and scratches on the case. Any tips for getting these out (aside from silver polish wadding - thanks, MRC). Would you recommend Cape Cod polishing cloths?

Thanks again - really appreciate all your expertise.