Calling all Pocket Watch Buffs

skand · Aug 19, 2026

Hello everyone,I am not an expert on vintage pocket watches, but I recently got this huge piece and I’m trying to figure out what exactly I have here.The dial says George Prior, London, and it was clearly made for the Turkish/Ottoman market. To my untrained eye, the enamel dial, the hands, and the outer tortoiseshell case look totally original and high quality.However, after doing some basic research, I noticed a few things that look really strange and make me question if the whole watch is genuine, the size: this thing is absolutely massive! It measures about 10 cm (100 mm) across. Is that normal for these watches? No Serial Number: I looked everywhere on the movement, but there is no serial number engraved. I read somewhere that real English watches from this era always had numbers.Yellow Metal Inside: The inner case is made of a yellow metal (looks like brass or gilt), but I couldn’t find any British silver hallmarks inside. The Movement Style: When I open it up, the little pillars holding the plates look smooth and round (like small pillars on a balcony). Also, the name Geo Prior is written in a curvy cursive/italic script, and there is a small silver dial for adjustments. I’ve heard this style might actually be Swiss, not English.Could this be what collectors call a "marriage watch" from back in the day? Like, a genuine Prior outer case and dial but with a fake or swapped Swiss movement inside from the 18th or 19th century?

I would love to hear your thoughts and expertise on this! Thank you so much for your help!

TexOmega · Aug 19, 2026

These 16s 21j William McKinley grade Hampden watches marked “double roller” were marketed by Hampden in 1905 as “guaranteed to pass railroad inspection” both in US and Canada.
This one dates to 1905 and also marked Adjusted to 5 Positions which was also needed at that time to be considered RR grade.

pdxleaf · Aug 19, 2026

TexOmega
Walmart aisle 3 bay 22 here in North Texas seems to have dozens.

Eventually one will pop up online, be prepared to pay up. Good luck and post the rest of that pw when you can.

God help me, I think I'm a pocket watch collector. This is my fourth pw, if I include my Longines, which was purchased on a lark, and could make me a hoarder. But my next 3 purchases were RR grade, nice movements, which would pass as a collection.

Pretty pleased. It was a fair amount under $1k so seemed worth a risk. It cleaned up nicely. It sets, winds and runs, but don't know about accuracy.

What could have been rust or pitting was just gunk. No dents or dings on the case. What might have been brassing was just reflection. There is a case number below the 6 that matches the last 4 of the s/n on the caseback. There are marks on the inner bezel that I don't know the meaning. The 14k white gold filled is bright and very attractive. My first encounter with white gold and I can see the appeal.

The dial is just as cracked as it appeared, if not more so, but the cracks melt away at a distance. This might be the equivalent of a ten foot paint job on a car.

The movement is very clean. It pops much more than I expected. The gold bits help. The s/n puts it towards the end of the run.

I can appreciate why the 16s was popular. I like the 18s, but this 16s feels like a 39mm vs a 42mm on a wrist watch. The 42mm works, but the 39mm is just right, like how this 16s sits in your palm.

I'll keep looking for a dial, but this one doesn't distract too much from the watch. I have a 992 and a Bunn Special both with perfect double-sunk dials. It's hard to beat the beauty of an unmarred enamel dial, but the cracks are less bothersome in person, as compared to photos.

Photos:

How does the snap-on caseback work? It's loose now. Because I don't know how it's designed to come off and on, I haven't tried pressing it on. Does it just take hand pressure? Once on, how does it pop off?

Thanks for indulging me. It's been fun.

TexOmega · Aug 19, 2026

pdxleaf
God help me, I think I'm a pocket watch collector. This is my fourth pw, if I include my Longines, which was purchased on a lark, and could make me a hoarder. But my next 3 purchases were RR grade, nice movements, which would pass as a collection.

Pretty pleased. It was a fair amount under $1k so seemed worth a risk. It cleaned up nicely. It sets, winds and runs, but don't know about accuracy.

What could have been rust or pitting was just gunk. No dents or dings on the case. What might have been brassing was just reflection. There is a case number below the 6 that matches the last 4 of the s/n on the caseback. There are marks on the inner bezel that I don't know the meaning. The 14k white gold filled is bright and very attractive. My first encounter with white gold and I can see the appeal.

The dial is just as cracked as it appeared, if not more so, but the cracks melt away at a distance. This might be the equivalent of a ten foot paint job on a car.

The movement is very clean. It pops much more than I expected. The gold bits help. The s/n puts it towards the end of the run.

I can appreciate why the 16s was popular. I like the 18s, but this 16s feels like a 39mm vs a 42mm on a wrist watch. The 42mm works, but the 39mm is just right, like how this 16s sits in your palm.

I'll keep looking for a dial, but this one doesn't distract too much from the watch. I have a 992 and a Bunn Special both with perfect double-sunk dials. It's hard to beat the beauty of an unmarred enamel dial, but the cracks are less bothersome in person, as compared to photos.

Photos:

How does the snap-on caseback work? It's loose now. Because I don't know how it's designed to come off and on, I haven't tried pressing it on. Does it just take hand pressure? Once on, how does it pop off?

Thanks for indulging me. It's been fun.

I'd wear it that way, no doubt......only down side is a piece or two of the enameled dial might come loose and a hand may be stopped if it gets stuck.

Back should screw on. Dustproof was the standard especially with Ball Model Cases.

pdxleaf · Aug 19, 2026

TexOmega
I'd wear it that way, no doubt......only down side is a piece or two of the enameled dial might come loose and a hand may be stopped if it gets stuck.

Back should screw on. Dustproof was the standard especially with Ball Model Cases.

Thanks, amigo.
I read that Ball had snap on casebacks and didn't even try to screw it on. 🤦

Maybe the earlier ones were snap one, or I'm just wrong. But it's on now.

Canuck · Aug 19, 2026

pdxleaf
God help me, I think I'm a pocket watch collector. This is my fourth pw, if I include my Longines, which was purchased on a lark, and could make me a hoarder. But my next 3 purchases were RR grade, nice movements, which would pass as a collection.

Pretty pleased. It was a fair amount under $1k so seemed worth a risk. It cleaned up nicely. It sets, winds and runs, but don't know about accuracy.

What could have been rust or pitting was just gunk. No dents or dings on the case. What might have been brassing was just reflection. There is a case number below the 6 that matches the last 4 of the s/n on the caseback. There are marks on the inner bezel that I don't know the meaning. The 14k white gold filled is bright and very attractive. My first encounter with white gold and I can see the appeal.

The dial is just as cracked as it appeared, if not more so, but the cracks melt away at a distance. This might be the equivalent of a ten foot paint job on a car.

The movement is very clean. It pops much more than I expected. The gold bits help. The s/n puts it towards the end of the run.

I can appreciate why the 16s was popular. I like the 18s, but this 16s feels like a 39mm vs a 42mm on a wrist watch. The 42mm works, but the 39mm is just right, like how this 16s sits in your palm.

I'll keep looking for a dial, but this one doesn't distract too much from the watch. I have a 992 and a Bunn Special both with perfect double-sunk dials. It's hard to beat the beauty of an unmarred enamel dial, but the cracks are less bothersome in person, as compared to photos.

Photos:

How does the snap-on caseback work? It's loose now. Because I don't know how it's designed to come off and on, I haven't tried pressing it on. Does it just take hand pressure? Once on, how does it pop off?

Thanks for indulging me. It's been fun.

https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/ball/B803082

Appears to be an ORRS Ball watch from the Illinois Watch Co. Very nice, and quite scarce as shown in the info from the pocketwatchdatabase site. One feature about this movement that sets it apart from other Ball 16-size movements is how the barrel bridge is cut out to circle the balance wheel. See the lens on the attached photo.

pdxleaf · Aug 19, 2026

Canuck
One feature about this movement that sets it apart from other Ball 16-size movements is how the barrel bridge is cut out to circle the balance wheel. See the lens on the attached photo.

Thanks for pointing this out. Looking at the Ball movements from other manufacturers, they looked the same as this one. I missed this cut out difference. It's mesmerizing watching the pallet fork.

Canuck · Aug 19, 2026

pdxleaf
Thanks for pointing this out. Looking at the Ball movements from other manufacturers, they looked the same as this one. I missed this cut out difference. It's mesmerizing watching the pallet fork.

They look almost the same. The plate design is by Ball, so there are a lot of similarities between movements. BUT, the Illinois is unique as pointed out.

TexOmega · Aug 20, 2026

Hamilton introduced the #3 Tu-Tone case in 1946, it was short lived. Advertised as Stainless Steel back and bezel with yellow gold filled frame or mid-case.
As seen here, it is marked Base Metal. It is speculated that Hamilton( and others) considered any non precious metal like stainless steel “base” since no back has surfaced with Stainless Steel markings.

And to confirm a true Factory Tu-Tone and not a Frankenstein, both back and bezel have matching serial numbers.

Canadian style dial and a 1946 movement

Canuck · Aug 20, 2026

skand
Hello everyone,I am not an expert on vintage pocket watches, but I recently got this huge piece and I’m trying to figure out what exactly I have here.The dial says George Prior, London, and it was clearly made for the Turkish/Ottoman market. To my untrained eye, the enamel dial, the hands, and the outer tortoiseshell case look totally original and high quality.However, after doing some basic research, I noticed a few things that look really strange and make me question if the whole watch is genuine, the size: this thing is absolutely massive! It measures about 10 cm (100 mm) across. Is that normal for these watches? No Serial Number: I looked everywhere on the movement, but there is no serial number engraved. I read somewhere that real English watches from this era always had numbers.Yellow Metal Inside: The inner case is made of a yellow metal (looks like brass or gilt), but I couldn’t find any British silver hallmarks inside. The Movement Style: When I open it up, the little pillars holding the plates look smooth and round (like small pillars on a balcony). Also, the name Geo Prior is written in a curvy cursive/italic script, and there is a small silver dial for adjustments. I’ve heard this style might actually be Swiss, not English.Could this be what collectors call a "marriage watch" from back in the day? Like, a genuine Prior outer case and dial but with a fake or swapped Swiss movement inside from the 18th or 19th century?

I would love to hear your thoughts and expertise on this! Thank you so much for your help!

In his book Watchmakers and Clockmakers of the World, Vol 1 (page 258),G H Baillie lists several makers with the Prior family name. In particular:

-George, London, Prescott st., 1765-1810.
-George (son of John Prior, 2 John Priors listed), born 1782, in London after 1822, maker of repute, especially in watches for Turkey rec’d 2 awards from Soc. Arts. 3 case watch. Science Museum South Kensington, 3 case watch with case of wood inlaid with silver, gold cased watch with Oriental chased case, South Kensington Museum, etc. etc.

TexOmega · Aug 21, 2026

18s 17j Rockford year 1899 grade 835.
RR grade
Nifty damaskeening
I was up in the High Rocky Mountains in Montana in 2001 fly fishing ( dry fly ONLY) and came down into Missoula where I found this at a pawn shop (that appeared to have been around 100 years or more.) Add in 2 992b in Stainless Steel cases and it was a productive supply run.

Rockford was sold to Illinois WC circa 1901.

TexOmega · Aug 22, 2026

Hamilton(1939) factory cased 992E in a Model #2 case(1938-39) and one of the 3 dials offered as “original” #522, informally called the Scrolled Script Marginal Minutes dial.
All 992E movements were factory cased.
@DaveK custom lanyard in Forest green

Canuck · Aug 22, 2026

Another 992E.

mattk23 · Aug 24, 2026

bobertdob
And Here are the Two Series III N Size 15J KWKS Open Face Watches the First with the Mershons Regulator the second without and note the see through back cover which I assume was a customization sometime back in the day..

Came across this thread and thought I would add my Howard Series III. From the factory records, it was produced May 27th, 1865. Original 18k gold case as well.

AHW · Aug 24, 2026

I have really gotten into the design of pocket watches, both functionally and aesthetically, but don’t have many opportunities where it makes sense to actually wear one. This leads me to the question: are there any wristwatches that capture the essence of a pocket watch in both these aspects? Plus have some degree of waterproofing!

I particularly like the design of European pocket watches, even more so complicated ones, so a quick thought board for inspiration.

Of course there are some obvious examples from Patek, A.Lange etc., but these are way beyond any budget I could ever hope to have. That leads me to IWC and they do have some fairly affordable (sub 5k) watches in their recent past that seem to match quite well, but the ones I have found are 44mm plus and quite thick, which I don’t like very much. Do any of the knowledgeable people here have any clever ideas?

bobertdob · Aug 24, 2026

M mattk23
Came across this thread and thought I would add my Howard Series III. From the factory records, it was produced May 27th, 1865. Original 18k gold case as well.

Wow that is a spectacular E Howard Series III. I hope you were able to get it running. And I hope you won't be removing that case given the value in gold these days. Finding a replacement case would be difficult which you probably already know. Your movement does not appear to have the Mershon's regulator feature which is marked on the balance cock if present on the early Series III models so your watch is likely a Reed. There is currently an E Howard Series III with the Mershons Regulator for sale in Kingston Ontario 1/2 hunter in a sterling silver case and running. I own both models ie the Mershons and Reed. My most beautiful and the one I use for time to time is an E Howard Series VII full hunter in a Sterling case and in running condition. All my watches are N Size 15 jewel like yours. I know they made 17 jewel movements later on but I have never seen one which I assume must have been on the Series VIII and IX. I recently had the opportunity to buy a second Series VII in almost NOS condition but in a Silveroid case. I did not pick it up to my regret. I love the original E Howards not so much the Keystones although they were very high end watches for the early 20th century themselves.

Canuck · Aug 24, 2026

Re-casing an E Howard movement is a challenge, I understand. These movements don’t fit typical 18-size cases. I suspect because most US made 18-size pocket watches were full plate style, and usually thicker than the E Howard. E Howard never built a full plate style movement. My E Howard series VII pocket watch is still in its original hunter case. Made circa 1884, so 142 years old. Original case paper with matching serial #. I doubt mine ever had much use over all the decades. Runs good. Perhaps I should carry it from time to time.

bobertdob · Aug 24, 2026

Canuck
Re-casing an E Howard movement is a challenge, I understand. These movements don’t fit typical 18-size cases. I suspect because most US made 18-size pocket watches were full plate style, and usually thicker than the E Howard. E Howard never built a full plate style movement. My E Howard series VII pocket watch is still in its original hunter case. Made circa 1884, so 142 years old. Original case paper with matching serial #. I doubt mine ever had much use over all the decades. Runs good. Perhaps I should carry it from time to time.

Thats a very beautiful E Howard Series VII. Shows minimal wear.

TexOmega · Aug 24, 2026

12s Illinois Marquis Autocrat grade 525 circa 1923

Canuck · Aug 24, 2026

My main focus is 16 and 18 size pocket watches. I have a smattering of smaller size movements. There is an undeniable appeal to some 12-size watches.