Call for Help: Possible Seamaster 166.010 or 168.024

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Hello All! I would love to have your help in assessing a couple of possible 168.024s.

I fell in love with this reference (and the 166.010) as soon as I saw it, and it has come to feel like time to make a move! (I know there is another current thread asking for help with a 166.010.)

The discussions on that other thread have made me wonder if the watches I am looking at (also from Chrono24 and also from Japan) are overpriced.

I would be very grateful for your thoughts on these listings (I hope I am allowed simply to link?):

[Edited to remove links!]

Option #1:
Seller tells me the watch runs +15spd, which seems pretty good!
Is there a bad gap between the lug and endlink on the 6 o'clock side? Or am I just seeing things
Is this price excessive?



Option #2:
This one is a little more pricey.
I'm waiting to hear back about its current gain/loss per day.




Finally, for watches this old, does the chronometre label (168.024) make a great deal of difference over the 166.010?

Thanks so much: I really love these references, and I am grateful in advance for your help and advice! 😀
Chris
Edited:
 
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Hello All! I would love to have your help in assessing a couple of possible 168.024s.

I fell in love with this reference (and the 166.010) as soon as I saw it, and it has come to feel like time to make a move! (I know there is another current thread asking for help with a 166.010.)

The discussions on that other thread have made me wonder if the watches I am looking at (also from Chrono24 and also from Japan) are overpriced.

I would be very grateful for your thoughts on these listings (I hope I am allowed simply to link?):

https://www.chrono24.com/omega/sea-master-chronometer-168024-166010-cal564--id20891112.htm
Seller tells me the watch runs +15spd, which seems pretty good!
Is there a bad gap between the lug and endlink on the 6 o'clock side? Or am I just seeing things
Is this price excessive?

https://www.chrono24.com/omega/sea-master-chronometer-168024-166010-cal564--id20213740.htm
This one is a little more pricey.
I'm waiting to hear back about its current gain/loss per day.

Finally, for watches this old, does the chronometre label (168.024) make a great deal of difference over the 166.010?

Thanks so much: I really love these references, and I am grateful in advance for your help and advice! 😀
Chris
Photos, not links.
 
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IMO $1700 is too much for either of these. While they are fairly good examples, (no redials, incorrect replacement parts) you can probably find examples of the same reference at a similar condition for about $300-500 less.

Also, there's no point in asking about what spd the movement is running at because the watch will probably need to be serviced, and you can have your watchmaker regulate the movement to your daily wear patterns so it runs at nearly 0.

For watches this old, the Chronometer designation doesn't 'actually' matter that much. It was commonly the case that contemporary Omegas with non-chronometer movements were built to the same standard as their chronometer counterparts. So in the hands of a good watchmaker, even standard series 55X-75X family movements can perform just as well as a chronometer.
 
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Finally, for watches this old, does the chronometre label (168.024) make a great deal of difference over the 166.010?

I wouldn't necessarily expect that they will keep better time (since that depends on many factors), but I do think that many collectors appreciate watches that were made to be chronometers.
 
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IMO $1700 is too much for either of these. While they are fairly good examples, (no redials, incorrect replacement parts) you can probably find examples of the same reference at a similar condition for about $300-500 less.

Also, there's no point in asking about what spd the movement is running at because the watch will probably need to be serviced, and you can have your watchmaker regulate the movement to your daily wear patterns so it runs at nearly 0.

For watches this old, the Chronometer designation doesn't 'actually' matter that much. It was commonly the case that contemporary Omegas with non-chronometer movements were built to the same standard as their chronometer counterparts. So in the hands of a good watchmaker, even standard series 55X-75X family movements can perform just as well as a chronometer.

Hi Caliber561--Thank you for this. I guess 300-500 less would be a large proportion of the asking price. Do you suggest just waiting and seeing what pops up on Chrono24 and elsewhere? I'll keep hunting around.

Also--what you say about the chronometer status makes sense: I think I just like that extra text on the dial! (unlike some people, I seem to be drawn to dial text a bit.)

Thank you for this help!
 
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I wouldn't necessarily expect that they will keep better time (since that depends on many factors), but I do think that many collectors appreciate watches that were made to be chronometers.

Thank you, Dan S: maybe that is exactly what I feel. I wrote this in my prior reply to Caliber561, but I also just like the added text on the dial. 😀
 
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Here is another example that has caught my eye--a 166.010. It looks very clean to me (except for the hands--is that problematic corrosion?). The seller says it would not need a service for some 5 years, and it is running something like +10 or less/day. The seller has good reviews. What do you think? Is the cost more than it should be? Are some of the same references at sold by Closer comparable?
Thanks so much for your help!

 
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And one more 166.010: how do you like this one compared to the one above? (This one is from Closer). It's considerably less expensive than the one above, but it also seems a bit less clean to my (inexperienced) eyes.
Thanks so much for your help!
Chris

 
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Bump:

Just thought I'd resend this: I would be very grateful for any advice or guidance on the last two 166.010s listed here. I'm especially taken by the one dated the 17th! Though it is priced at ca. $1650, which seems like a lot.
Thank you!
 
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Hi SkunkPrince! Thank you for your help--
The 166.010 dated the 17th is ca. $1650. The seller, in Belgium, suggests that the watch would not have to be serviced for another 5 years: He wrote me: "Hi Chris! She gains about 10s a day in the dial up position! This does cancel our a bit when worn closer to 0. She is in fact on the original beads of rice bracelet" and then: "She should be good for the next 5 years! I either sell my watches serviced or make sure they are running at service spec, so they got serviced prior to me getting them!"

Is this a meaningful claim from a seller?

The other 166.010 (posted most recently on this thread), from Closer, dated the 14th is ca. $900.

Thank you again! (I actually think I remember seeing a 166.010 of yours when it just got back from service several months ago: it was gorgeous!)

Chris
 
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Ah! I see!

Does it matter that the $900 one would probably need a service right away, while the $1650 one might not?

Thanks again!
 
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Ah! I see!

Does it matter that the $900 one would probably need a service right away, while the $1650 one might not?

Thanks again!
You could get it serviced three times for that difference in price. Also, I'd be wary of a watch that has a claim of a recent service without a receipt.
 
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„..or is running at service spec“

Translation: I’ve had it adjusted, but nothing else was done to the movement. That plus as outrageous price would mean a pass in my book.
 
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You could get it serviced three times for that difference in price. Also, I'd be wary of a watch that has a claim of a recent service without a receipt.

Thank you, Impalla62ss! I guess I didn't think a good service for a vintage omega could be had for just about $200. That changes my thinking on which one to get!

Would you feel comfortable sharing your watchmaker with me (PM is fine!)? Thank you! 😀
 
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„..or is running at service spec“

Translation: I’ve had it adjusted, but nothing else was done to the movement. That plus as outrageous price would mean a pass in my book.

Hi MtV--Thank you! So it sounds like the 1650 price is far too high to you, too. The seller added this when I inquired further: "There a couple ways how I know a watch is serviced! Here is for example another 166.010; if you look at the timegrapher reading you see a thing called amplitude, a vintage watxh that runs at 240 degrees is considered to be running healthy! This one for example is just badly regulated! Next to that I can inspect the oil caps, just like a with a car I can check if there is still oil in these caps. Since watchmakers now use synthetic oil this oil runs out when it is time for a new service. I personally also use UV loaded oil so a watchmaker can see the oil load with an UV light!"

Do you think the other 166.010 (from Closer) is a good choice for a first vintage seamaster?

Thanks again!

Chris
 
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Thank you, Impalla62ss! I guess I didn't think a good service for a vintage omega could be had for just about $200.

That's highly dependent on the watch and where you are and how much adjusting of the movement you receive. It is by no means universal. Just for the sake of argument, Omega will service that watch for $450.
Edited:
 
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Thank you SkunkPrince! So maybe it would be best to get the less expensive one from Closer and then send it off to Omega for a nice service? Or from some another watchmaker?

Well--I am starting to lean towards the more affordable example of the 166.010s I've listed above!

Thank you again!
Chris