cal. 1012 on the bench

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A few months back I found what I looked like a project watch rage quit on the bay, so took a gamble on 2 non running 1012 movements.

Stripped both of them down, and discovered a broken balance pivot stopping on one, and the tube that holds the seconds pinion loose on the other. Along with broken incablock springs on BOTH balance cocks...

Needed to move some balance wheels around, and dig a balance cock from the parts box, but managed to get a seemingly functional balance cock assembly together.

lets see if I can't make a runner out of these 2 movements yet.
 
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sometimes incablock spring from main plate can be same as cock spring

Most parts you've got to finish the project so take your time and let us know the watch complete
 
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corrected a bit of barrel wobble, feels nice and stable now.
 
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To my great relief it now runs, so I will leave it here for today.

Dial side and auto works for another day.
 
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Lift angle should be set to 52...
 
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Thanks for that @Archer , I had gotten into the habit of 49 from 550 series movements, can't thank you enough for your willingness to share your knowledge so freely always.

I will check again when I have the movement fully together.
 
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Thanks for that @Archer , I had gotten into the habit of 49 from 550 series movements, can't thank you enough for your willingness to share your knowledge so freely always.

I will check again when I have the movement fully together.

If that current reading you show is full wind dial up or down, then I suspect that even with increasing the lift angle, the amplitude might be a bit low (250 or so). I would test it again before you go to the trouble of assembling the whole movement, because if there's something you need to address, it just adds work taking it all back off again.
 
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I'll take a new reading tonight, this was dial side down.

I was thinking the friction spring on the seconds pinion might be my cause.

What sort of amplitude should I be aiming for with and without that spring installed?

Hopefully this is the cause or it may be time to finally hunt down a jacot tool, though that jewel press has also been calling out...

That said, I must try not to get too far ahead of myself, I am still in the application process for a watchmaking school to try and learn a bit more thoroughly.
 
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These have amplitudes more like modern movements, so I would expect 280's horizontal full wind...possibly higher.
 
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So I popped the movement back on the time grapher and when I went to check how it ran dial up, I discovered that it simply stopped...

I guess this one is coming apart, I wonder if since I changed balance cock, the depth of the jewel is off, as I noticed that it makes a noise as i start to tilt the movement, and then it fully stops when its fully dial side up.

For now I will pull everything apart again, re-clean the pivots and put them under the microscope instead of just the loupe.
See if I cant identify the cause of this one.

I suspect this one will require a tool I dont yet have, but hopefully it wont need both the jacot and the horia... time will tell.
 
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One thing to keep in mind on these is that you need to assemble enough of the dial side parts to make sure that the stop lever doesn't flop around - in certain positions of the watch on the timing machine it can fall and stop the balance if you don't install enough parts. Won't be the problem in your case, but something to watch for.
 
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This one is really stumping me.

I think the stop lever should have been secure since I had the keyless works together.

I just pulled the main train back apart and checked all the pivots under the microscope, all of the pivots are still there and there doesn't look to be any untoward wear or mushrooming.

I am now suspecting its end shake, is there a way to measure the end shake? and if so is there an acceptable amount/target for end shake?

I'm not in a position to get a horia or seitz tool at the moment, perhaps next month, unless I buy one of those chinese horia clones from ali express, but I have a feeling I would find myself buying a swiss one later if I do, so im a bit hesitant (it is 1/12th the price though, which is certainly appealing).
 
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the endshake of the actual balance is definitely too high, it seems like the hairspring fouls on the balance cock when the dial is up.

I am guessing I will need a horia tool and the inca pumps and anvils set to correct this? I suspect it is the inca setting in the mainplate as multiple different balance cocks have given me the same result.

I had a quick comparison with a different (running) 1011 movement thats also in need of a good clean, and this at least appears to be the main difference.
 
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Thank you for the pointers @Archer I finally got this one running with a more respectable amplitude with the friction spring on in both dial up and down positions.

Took a bit longer than anticipated, but there was a lot of good learning along the way.

Had an inca spring snap on me, and for the first time i managed to get a replacement in with fairly little pain.