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Bracelet options for a 1950s oyster perpetual

  1. S.H. Dec 19, 2021

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    Hello,

    I recently unearthed this little one:

    DSC_6661.jpeg

    It is a 6332 from 1954. I had a buckle sloshing around in my "nice" parts bin so I can always put a 19mm leather on it, but I am definitely more of a bracelet guy. Also, the case shows bracelet marks inside the lugs but not under them, it was worn with a straight end bracelet.

    I think I have read somewhere that around 1954 Rolex transitioned to the now classic fitted enlinks look, from the straight end look seen on earlier bubblebacks. So naturally I'd like to find a straight end rivet bracelet to keep a 1950s vibe. (forget about getting an original one, price will be probably be nuts for a stretched survivor)

    I did not see many offerings besides the Forstner rivet. I'm not so sure it will be well proportioned with my watch, though. The Forstner bracelet does not taper and if I understand well, is 18mm wide (only the end parts can be 18, 19 or 20mm wide, the rest is always 18mm). It looks very nice on bigger watches, but the 6332 case is 34mm wide, and I fear that the constant 18mm wide bracelet will overpower it a little.

    I also tried it with a bonklip (felt strange) and natos. Not a nato guy either, and it is feels out of place, and too thick. A bubbleback is not a thin flat watch to begin with.

    IMG_20211217.jpg

    Does anyone has the Forstner river on a small 34mm case? Any other option with a tapering bracelet?
     
  2. vibe Dec 20, 2021

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    Beautiful watch! For me, a watch like this with a nato is a faux pas. I’d get a 76350 and call it a day. It may not be correct for the vintage, but it is such a great bracelet. They can usually be found without a lot of stretch and they aren’t too expensive. The rivet 19mm bracelets are pretty janky, even when super tight and the clasp is only like 12mm on those, so quite dainty. Also the end links do not fit well at all. Another option is a jubilee (USA oval link), which will have nicely fitting end links, but they are quite difficult to come by.
     
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  3. Slevin kelevra Dec 20, 2021

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  4. S.H. Dec 20, 2021

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    I actually like the heavy taper so the small clasp does not bother me. But I'll have a look at the 76350.

    Also, the straight end bor may be another cool option. I think I'll have to try a few different things, and see what sticks...
     
  5. vibe Dec 20, 2021

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    That should be 78350,
     
  6. Syrte MWR Tech Support Dept Dec 20, 2021

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    What you need is a leather strap like the fabulous vintage looking one @Revo got made for his 1950s Rolex.
    And his great write up on MWR Forum for fellow strap enthusiasts, on how he sought out someone who could emulate the right look and texture from the strap on the famous Rolex Sir Edmund Hillary took to Mount Everest.
    https://www.mwrforum.net/forums/showthread.php?73256-New-shoes-for-an-old-girl&highlight=Shoes

    I’ve taken the liberty to repost Revo’s pictures which I have marked.
     
    24734AA9-8D25-4A42-960E-AC0B210AFD3D.jpeg B121C680-108B-4601-9BC4-A57665FE8D2B.jpeg
    Edited Dec 20, 2021
    Vitezi and S.H. like this.
  7. S.H. Dec 20, 2021

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    Lovely! But deep down I know that if I want to wear this watch, I'd better find a steel bracelet. I usually find 34mm watches on leather a bit strange, like I am missing something.

    A Forstner stretchy rivet is incoming, even if it doesn't go well with this one it will be useful.


    As for the Everest, wasn't it a Smiths deluxe, which is in an English museum ?
     
  8. Syrte MWR Tech Support Dept Dec 20, 2021

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    You are totally right a Smiths is the watch which went to the top, but as I understand Hillary also had a Rolex on the expedition, which didn’t go to the top —@Revo is the expert on the matter so he will fill you in on the details….
     
  9. ConElPueblo Dec 20, 2021

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    If it doesn't have to be a straight-end bracelet there are som pretty great rivet braceletsPurchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network on eBay, I bought one myself for my FOIS. Much, much better than the Omega 1125 alternative.


    [​IMG]
     
  10. S.H. Dec 21, 2021

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    I think a 7905 repro is next in the line of things to try, indeed.
     
  11. CLA05 Dec 29, 2021

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    :)
    That looks quite nice! Do you find the quality to be decent?
    I may have to have a look on the bay… :thumbsup:
     
  12. ConElPueblo Dec 29, 2021

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    Oh yes, they are great. The quality is IMO easily as good as Omega's old bracelet designs such as the 1171 and 1125 which are still in production and the price is obviously much lower. Follow the link in my post to find the seller, very recommended.
     
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  13. offrdmania Dec 29, 2021

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    You can find a 7205 rivet bracelet on eBay for under $700. It will preferably need 57 end links but 61s will also work. If the bracelet is too stretched out then you can send it to Rolliworks in San Francisco to be rebuilt. A rebuild job on that model will run you around $300-400 and it will be tight and look brand new when done.
     
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  14. CLA05 Dec 29, 2021

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    Oh haha oops you posted a link! Great thank you Troels, hope you’re doing well :)
     
  15. vibe Dec 30, 2021

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    Rebuild is more like $500, I had two done earlier in the year. Here is what a oval link looks like on a 34mm Rolex case, and the clasp width vs a rivet. Oval link jubilees work for 34 and 36mm cases but it is too fat for a 34mm case IMHO, I prefer the 76350. This bracelet now lives on my 1018.
    AFDE14D5-DCAD-4320-91B5-D41956D62A6A.jpeg 51318887-9675-4F29-A0C7-7D6FBDAF941C.jpeg DD164F6B-C7CE-4A2F-99F5-8A70174F2C55.jpeg
     
    Edited Dec 30, 2021
  16. S.H. Dec 31, 2021

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    Rebuilding a bracelet would probably imply sending it overseas, and problems with customs (I'm not in the US). I'd rather not go that far.

    The Forstner would be nice... if it were longer. As it is, it would probably suit me with a bigger chrono or diver but paired with a 34mm case it is too short. So it is leather for now, I'll think about a bracelet next year. Meanwhile, I played around with light, at last I have a little sun when I am in vacation (last 5 days were quite humid and dark):

    DSC_6678.jpeg

    DSC_6689.jpeg

    Interesting how the minute track is slightly off, and it is not a redial. So much for the "fanatical attention to detail" BS I see sometimes in Rolex blog posts. Should have got myself an old Omega :D ::bleh::
     
  17. offrdmania Dec 31, 2021

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    Most likely the minute track is just fine. The curvature of the crystal can distort what you are seeing.

    Also, if it is just slightly off, these dials were all hand screen printed back then. Only eyeballs were used to line things up.
     
  18. morningtundra Jan 1, 2022

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    I've got to agree. It's often modern-enthusiasts judging vintage pieces by today's production standards. They forget that in the 50's pretty much everything was outsourced and Rolex performed only minimal assembly, calibration, and packaging. And even all this by human hand.
     
  19. morningtundra Jan 1, 2022

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  20. JwRosenthal Jan 1, 2022

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    I have one of these new rivet bracelets on my GMT. 644D71E5-926F-494D-86D1-78BA002A0F10.jpeg
    Unlike vintage rivets, they don’t have the flat sided stepped links but rather tapered like a more modern bracelet. But the removable links are screw pins (thank the lord) and they are beautifully made- far better than any of my original rivet bracelets.
    The strait endlink Forstner would also be a good alternative. It mimicks the looks of the early Gay Freres rivet including a flex links at the bracelet. I have a friend who has on a sub and loves it (although I prefer fitted endlinks, I think it’s a nice vintage look).
     
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