Recently picked up a 50s Seamaster Calendar ref 2849. I was struggling to find a leather strap I like with the patina, until I remembered bracelets are a thing.. and recalled a beauty I had seen from @kyle L Anyway, I’m now in the market for a BOR. What end links do I need? Any particular version of BOR used in the 50s? 5/7/9 rows are the options I believe? Also, would the same BOR and end links work with a 2846/2849 and 2577? I don’t even have a 2577 yet but I’m thinking ahead.. Mine - @kyle L example -
Check the Watch Parts for Sale subforum for BOR bracelets; they pop up there regularly. Not sure what end links you need, but many BORs seem to be sold with end links.
I saw that - seems like they come available frequently, just want to confirm what exactly I should be looking for regarding bracelet and end link numbers..
Matching BOR end links to the older SMs and Constellations can be tricky. I have the 5 (or 7 - nobody seems to agree on what to call them) row BORs as in the pic of Kyle's watch above on three vintage Omegas. A 354 SM in a 2767 case is on a No. 12 BOR with 11 end links, which have a folded leading edge. A 505 Constellation in a 2852 case is on a No. 8220 BOR with 12 end links, which have a raw leading edge. I can't see any difference between the 12 and 8220 BORs. I also have a BOR with unnumbered links that just says Made in the USA on the clasp but has the Omega stamp. Those links look identical to 12s but the only watch of mine they will go on is a 266 in a 2605 case, which fits nicely. I suspect your SM Calendar will need 11 end links.
I had a BOR ref 8220 with #14 endlinks on a Seamaster ref 1476-1. They fitted it well, and had been on as long as the original owner could remember. Here are pictures for the record.
@Edward53 what do you mean by “folded” vs “raw” leading edge? Is that the only difference between 11 and 12 end links? Anyone know the difference between 11/12 and the 14 end links @Lucasssssss has?
I acquired a steel BOR with one no12 and one No14 end link. They look pretty damn similar to me! It was fitted to an Ed White (obviously incorrectly) so it wasn't apparent what either should actually be used for.
By "leading edge" I mean the curved edge of the end link that is in contact with the curve of the watch case. (It's an aerospace term for something else but I couldn't think of anything better here.) On Kyle's watch you can see that this curve is folded inwards. By "raw edge" I mean that the metal isn't folded and the edge of the link directly contacts the watch case. It's like the difference between the tail of a shirt that's either hemmed or left "raw". Here's a "raw edge", not the same sort of BOR but you can see how it's not folded over.
@Edward53 That helps! I’m assuming that the folded edge is a little bit better at not scratching the case.. so will look for those. Otherwise it seems like 11/12/14 should be fine. Any info on whether the 5/7 or 9 link bracelet was used in the 50s?
I'd say that five links looks far better on the earlier models, whereas the seven link looks best on mid to late sixties references. My only two:
Yeah, nobody wants those crappy flatlinks... They are no. 11s. Right now they are on a Constellation 2782 where they fit with the case, but not perfectly with the lug shape.
I'll check for you the next time I can get to my bumper. I got pretty lucky with that they ended up fitting. I would try to buy a bunch off of ebay and play around with them.
Of all the pictures I have seen I have only seen 11's on the early ones and the 12's on later late 50's+, so I always figured the 11 was first and they made the flat ended ones later to save cost. They ditched to folded links in the sixties from solid in the fifties for the bracelets too so it makes sense.. But this is all just my theory from pictures.. Its hard because most pics you can't see the endlinks numbers, that's not what most like to show off. I know 11 is correct though for mid 50's if you want to play it safe.