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Black dial seamaster de ville query.

J
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I purchased a Seamaster De Ville from eBay about 10 years ago. I’ve had it serviced and it works well but I have no idea of model, specification or age. I’m planning on putting it up for sale and don’t wish to mislead anyone so I’d appreciate any information to make my listing as accurate as possible. If anyone has a minute to take a look and give me their opinion I’d really appreciate it. Thanks.
 
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seekingseaquest
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I’m not an expert on these reference numbers so can’t help you there. But it’s from the 1960s. The second hand is broken. The dial looks like a repaint to me based on the S in Seamaster, but more clear photos of the text would help. The text should be shiny gilt, not painted.
 
Davidt
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The main issue here is that the dial isn’t original, it’s been repainted which significantly impacts value.

In terms of ref it’s probably a 166.020
 
SOG53
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Here are 2 examples of the original font text to compare to your watch the differences are more obvious with magnification
If it runs you might be best to keep it to wear as value on low side with repainted dial case damage and hand issues.
IMG_1108.png IMG_1109.jpeg
 
JwRosenthal
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If you want to be accurate and honest in your listing, take excellent, sharp and well lit photos (daylight is always best) mention that the dial has been refinished at some point in its history and the second hand is not the correct length. As for age, saying “1960’s” would be appropriate. If you are listing it on eBay, start with a low starting price and let the market decide on what it’s worth.
 
Davidt
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Interesting that it’s now listed on eBay with no mention of it being a redial.
 
dougal74
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Here's mine with papers from 1971 (no Seamaster text on the dial but the hippocampus Seamaster 14k case instead)
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J
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Davidt Davidt
The main issue here is that the dial isn’t original, it’s been repainted which significantly impacts value.

In terms of ref it’s probably a 166.020
Thanks - that’s really useful. Do you have a view as to how much I should list it for? Thanks again
 
J
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Davidt Davidt
Interesting that it’s now listed on eBay with no mention of it being a redial.[/QUOTE I’ve only just got around to reading the comments on here. As soon as I did I removed the listing and will repost it with the info provided here.
 
SOG53
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The easiest thing is to start a no reserve auction at 9.99 or some low number and let it go for 7 days and you will realize the market value. If you try to put a fixed price or higher starting price for example $200 it will probably just sit and not sell. Just my experience.
These are front loader watches so you need to get watchmaker to open it- I wouldnt bother just describe it as frontloader case- you think it could be 166.020 but not sure- you dont have the tools to open it- repainted dial. Its still an attractive watch and there is value in the movement and there are buyers who dont really care about originality who would like an Omega. This is a collectors forum so people here are quite fussy about originality but 999 out of 1000 folks on the street would have no idea the difference. Good luck with sale.
 
Davidt
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Black redials are hard to value. Most collectors wouldn’t even buy them so if it was offered to me at £200 I’d honestly pass. Then again, there have been auctions of redials on eBay that have ended over £1000 due to the Mad Men affect. These however are few and far between.

As long as you clearly state it’s a redial, ask what you like, but again it’s hard to value. As suggested above I’d simply list it in an auction with a clear description and let the market decide
 
J
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SOG53 SOG53
The easiest thing is to start a no reserve auction at 9.99 or some low number and let it go for 7 days and you will realize the market value. If you try to put a fixed price or higher starting price for example $200 it will probably just sit and not sell. Just my experience.
These are front loader watches so you need to get watchmaker to open it- I wouldnt bother just describe it as frontloader case- you think it could be 166.020 but not sure- you dont have the tools to open it- repainted dial. Its still an attractive watch and there is value in the movement and there are buyers who dont really care about originality who would like an Omega. This is a collectors forum so people here are quite fussy about originality but 999 out of 1000 folks on the street would have no idea the difference. Good luck with sale.
Thanks for the advice. I think, on balance, I’ll just keep it. I do wear it every so often and I don’t really see the point in liquidating it if it’s going to be a low realisation of what I paid. As an aside, and as there seems to be a lot of knowledge on this site, I’m thing of buying a vintage Omega dive watch. Photos attached. Any thoughts on what I should look out for? Any advice would be really appreciated. Thanks. J
 
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Davidt
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Looks like an Admiralty with the less commonly seen divers bezel. The lume plot appears to be lost and has been refilled and is there some minute markers missing around 8?
All depends on price.
 
J
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Davidt Davidt
Looks like an Admiralty with the less commonly seen divers bezel. The lume plot appears to be lost and has been refilled and is there some minute markers missing around 8?
All depends on price.
That’s great intel. Thanks. Asking price £1850
 
JwRosenthal
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J jamesdavies
That’s great intel. Thanks. Asking price £1850
Too high for the condition. If it were flawless I would say go for it. They do come up periodically so worth waiting for a better one
 
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