With your attitude - yes, you were asking for a reply.

Here, I have found 48 threads on OF containing the word "choose" in the title; I would say that a fair percentage of those are quite similar to this one where a member asks for opinions and advice regarding stylistic or practical matters and I am sure that your helpful advice would come in handy

When you are done with those, I encourage you to seek out those with words like "dilemma" or similar in the title; I am sure that your wit and charm will add value to those threads as well

Sorry for the derailing, @albertob, best of luck with the birth year watch! I was thinking that it would be a good idea to state a budget for the watch as there seem to be some limitations there.

 

thanks Troels, I guess that with the attitude of this user, some “derailing” was needed.

apologies for not having given more details, I was on a rushy lunch-break. I also realize that my post might have been perceived as “guys, pick me a watch” and that’s not the case


But that’s true. My budget would be around 8k euro and considering only watches with date (extremely important to me, and, believe it or not, I love cyclops).
This is why I came down to DJ and Subs.
I’m working in consulting and wearing business casual. I would be comfortable in Wearing a sub even with a suit (super popular here in Italy).

Being honest, I just wanted to enter the Rolex world with a year-birth model as I do not have one (nor rolex, nor year-birth).

I tried on my wrist both and they wear comfy and look good on it.

My question was more about having insights from current owners and if they would recommend me a specific series of DJ (love the 16030) over another. Or why I should take DJ and not sub. Reviews in general and what they would suggest to a guy in my situation.

thanks gents, as always I love (most of) the people in this forum

Alberto

 

A date just would get my vote but it’s all a matter of taste and pennies

 

agree even for Burlington arcade they are expensive Great place for window shopping though.

 

I was going to throw this into the mix......sorry.

Date Window - tick
Roman Numerals - tock
Super tough bracelet - tick
Birth year is a possibility- tick
Beautifully made, amazing accurate movement, superb design. Open Sixes and Nines
But it’s a........


I think they’re super cool.......but I am a 52 year old man with a fondness for Brogues, so what would I know.

 

lovely, which reference?

 

17000 w/Buckley Dial

I think this particular model is so versatile it’s quite sporty but would also look good with a DJ (Dinner Jacket).

 

A Oysterquartz is a brilliant idea, @Nathan1967! I am not a huge fan of the ones with Roman numerals, but there are other styles which are lovely

 

It would depend on your personal style I suppose, but if you say that you can wear a Submariner for business casual, then perhaps it would boil down to price or rarity?

Datejusts are much easier to find in good condition. Submariners will be a little more pricey based on conditions. For 1986 you’re looking at a 16800 Submariner with white gold surrounds. One with nice patina should be under $8k. Datejusts are just as equally amazing. If you can find a blue dial datejust, those are really lovely and have a great look to them, a little different from the silver, black, or white dial. You can likely find one for half the price of a 16800 Submariner. $4k is a lot of money, so the price difference might sway you one way or the other.

 

Such different watches. Both are good, and I can’t recommend one over the other. Huge price differential. Usually people ask for recommendations between two comparable watches, but these two serve completely different purposes. I wear my Subs more than my DJs, but that’s just me.

Personal taste entirely. Go back and try them both one a few more times. One will speak to you.

 

I would definitely pick a sub — purely because I wear them much more than DJs which I also own

My birth year is 1983 and I’m lucky in the sense that this was a transitional year for the submariner where I could pick up a matte dial flat marker with sapphire crystal which would be a little easier to live with

1986 the white gold surround raised markers were a permanent feature so you don’t quite get some of the vintage charm.

For that reason I may recommend a 16750 - again the raised white gold surrounds but with the option to switch out bezels and the GMT functionality you have a do everything type of watch.

 

Considered a 16800 matte dial?

Ive lost touch with sub prices, but remember those to be around 7-8k USD i think.

 

With reasoning like that.... one hopes you are never asked to be on a jury!!!!!

 

How is the sub in your price range but Expl ii is out? Is 86 the transitional 16550? I’d say Expl ii all the way.

 

My thoughts exactly. The fact that he was comparing a 1986 DJ and sub made me wonder if the OP has a clear handle on current values. Anyway, the bottom line is that a 16550 is a viable option, if the OP likes it.

 

If you are thinking a birth year (1986) Date-Just, a factor for you to consider. It was circa the late 1980s when Rolex upgraded the DJ with a newer generation of movement (cal. 3035), and replaced the acrylic crystal with a sapphire crystal. IMO, these upgrades make the later model a better watch. The later movement and sapphire crystal was added to all Rolex watches at about that time. Except for the 18-karat Day-Date model which went so sapphire, several years before. I have included a picture of my Date-Just from 1990. Not currently on my wrist.

 

They are no longer matte dial in 1986, and will have white gold surround indices at this year. $7-8k USD still, depending on condition and patina.

 

I’m a watch fan, and a birth year fan, and a Rolex fan. I got a birth year Rolex for my wife (67 date just) my brother (69 gmt Pepsi) me ( 71 5512) and my son 2004 gmt coke) for my wife I got what she wanted, for the rest I looked for notable and iconic pieces that would stand on their own on the given years. The watch to me has to be as meaningful as the year. To me it’s not about a birth year watch but “the” birth year watch.

that being said “the” means something different to each of us. If a model songs to you.... that’s the one.

1986 is not an easy year. 88/89 you enter a transitional period, but the main models didn’t have huge ( maybe I’m wrong) developments mid eighties.

but that’s your year so... get something that you always look up to, don’t compromise. It’s your year and your watch so look for the most desirable item that you , every now and then, which you had. I’m serious. The year meaning will pass... it has to be a good watch.

 

You can find much better value in Hatton Garden IMO

 

Who are your top five dealers in Hatton Garden? Never been there so might have a look later in the year.