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Andy F
·On these three piece cases, what is the correct way to remove the bezel without damaging it?
Bezel removal on a 2577 or 2846 case
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Dan S
·Depends on whether you want to invest in a single-purpose tool or take your chances with a case knife.
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Andy F
·Definitely don't want to use a case knife. The mating surfaces are perfectly tight. I am not sure this will work on an Omega bezel though. I see this used on Rolex bezels or the type of bezel that is placed on top of a case. The omega case almost looks like one piece the joint line is so finely machined. Does anyone know if this tool will work on the case I am talking about? (photo in response to X350 XJR)
Edited:
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X350 XJR
··Vintage Omega AficionadoJust curious, why do you want to remove the bezel?
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Andy F
·Just curious, why do you want to remove the bezel?
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redpcar
·
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JimInOz
··Melbourne Australia
Eggzakly.
Just use it to get the edge of the blade into the seam and then slowly go around the seam with a light rocking motion.
Remember, use it like a wedge, not a lever.
When the seam is opened a bit, follow it up with something like this.
Do the same thing, let the blade do the work by wedging the seam open as you go around the periphery, you shouldn’t need a fat blade case knife.
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watchyouwant
·See Hoi' s post from today. He has guys in Vietnam, who make them. Ask him for help. Good luck ! Kind regards. Achim
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Archer
··Omega Qualified WatchmakerDepends on whether you want to invest in a single-purpose tool or take your chances with a case knife.
This is the correct tool for removing fixed bezels. Of course each job has to be looked at individually, but this is the type of tool most watchmakers would use, including me.
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Archer
··Omega Qualified Watchmaker
You can use whatever tool you like...you can smash it with a hammer if you want - none of my business. I'm just answering the questions asked...
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Andy F
·The specialized tool would be the way to go and I need to evaluate if the currently available $50 "knock offs" are a worthy replacement for the $379 tool OFrei sells. I remove bezels so infrequently the inexpensive tool might be just what I need. But I like the "razor's wedge" approach as well since it appeals to my inner butcher. I have a track to run on now, thanks to you all for the input and suggestions. I appreciate it.
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Archer
··Omega Qualified WatchmakerA Andy FThe specialized tool would be the way to go and I need to evaluate if the currently available $50 "knock offs" are a worthy replacement for the $379 tool OFrei sells. I remove bezels so infrequently the inexpensive tool might be just what I need. But I like the "razor's wedge" approach as well since it appeals to my inner butcher. I have a track to run on now, thanks to you all for the input and suggestions. I appreciate it.
If you aren't going to use a tool that opens on all sides at once, then there are some simple rules to follow. This is similar to removing a snap on case back, although bezels can often be on much tighter (which is why a dedicated tool offers advantages).
Any tool you use should act as a wedge, rather than a pry bar, so absolutely no prying. Find whatever blade will fit into the groove, push it straight in, and then work it all around the perimeter. Since the lugs on this are obscuring parts of the bezel gap, you will have to do this on 4 sides. Then find a slightly thicker blade and repeat. Do this over and over until the bezel basically falls off.
Next question - do you have a press? You will need one to put it back on.
Cheers, Al
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Andy F
·If you aren't going to use a tool that opens on all sides at once, then there are some simple rules to follow. This is similar to removing a snap on case back, although bezels can often be on much tighter (which is why a dedicated tool offers advantages).
Any tool you use should act as a wedge, rather than a pry bar, so absolutely no prying. Find whatever blade will fit into the groove, push it straight in, and then work it all around the perimeter. Since the lugs on this are obscuring parts of the bezel gap, you will have to do this on 4 sides. Then find a slightly thicker blade and repeat. Do this over and over until the bezel basically falls off.
Next question - do you have a press? You will need one to put it back on.
Cheers, Al
Thanks for the tips. I used the razor blade method and surprisingly, what I expected to be on very tightly just popped off easily. I was able to then compare/measure the bezel on my 2846 against that of the 2577 which is what is needed. As I suspected, the larger width of the 2577 requires a larger bezel. But the 2846 bezel went right back on with a reassuring thud thanks to my crystal press. Thanks again all for the lesson today.
