Exactly. A good service is rarely cheap and vice versa.

I like the fact that you used the word "rarely", instead of saying that it simply doesn't exist, which is obviously a lie.

 

Not sure who you are asking, but I'll answer. First off, understanding timing results is the first step. When people quote "on wrist" numbers, quite honestly that doesn't tell you the whole picture. Watches can vary quite a lot and still balance out on the wrist, so I've had people send me watches that they said ran fine, but when I get them on the timing machine there is a lot of positional variation. A good visual summary is this:



Reporting on wrist timing that is good, could be the bottom left image - high accuracy, low precision, or it could be the bottom right - high accuracy, with high precision. Unless you do the testing in a controlled manner, you won't know. All the real work is getting the top right image - high precision. Once you have that, moving the average of the readings to get high accuracy is easy.

So timing is determined first by doing the proper slate of tests on a timing machine. Personally I test all watches I service over 6 positions, regardless of if they are unadjusted, non-chronometer, or chronometer rated. My starting point is the timing specification of the brand, but that is only a starting point. For example I'm servicing a watch now where the customer emailed me to ask how it was going. I told them it was well within Omega's tolerances, so the positional variation that Omega allows over just 3 positions, I have it within that spec over 6 positions. But I wasn't happy with that, so I've continued to work to get it to run better, and reduce the the positional variation further.

My goal is to get all watches I service to fall within what the manufacturer's service tolerances are for their COSC grade watches, and do that over 6 positions, even though COSC is only measured over 5.

Once I get that and assemble the watch, I fully test the watch for 24 hours over all of the 6 positions, plus 24 hours on a final test winder. I check the power reserve, check the rates, and adjust and repeat as necessary until I'm satisfied with the results. I do this in part because the majority of my work is shipped in from locations all over the world. My customers can't "pop in" for a quick timing adjustment.

And as Ashton has stated, its rare that I get a vintage watch in that doesn't need parts.

Cheers, Al

 

More of the I like the fact you used rarely.
Tone down the angst in your posts like the lie bit.


New young employee at work is a former outboard mechanic. I can now get a good boat outboard motor service cheap.

 

For a watch that someone laid aside for one reason or another, many years ago, and that I discovered in a drawer of derelict watches, and that cost me little more than a bit of sweat equity, on the wrist accuracy is good enough for me. It was with the aid of my timing machine that this Gruen performs like this.

 

Now that's a constructive and very interesting answer, thank you!

 

I pay around 100 usd for a service for my vintage watches. No complications watches, mostly manual wind. My UG was around 200 usd.
Every part that need changing is extra cost
Im a regular customer, I serviced with him around 15 watches in the last 5 years.
In many cases I paid 80-100 usd for service for a watch that is valued at 300-500 usd.
The watchmaker knows the value and he uses common sense by not charging more.

I use a very competent independent watchmaker based in Eastern Europe. Third generation family business, the kind that makes a part if is no longer available. Does many restorations, but no redials.
The guy also deals with high end pieces, complications.......Im gonna assume he is charging a bit more for those.

Western Europe, the prices are pretty much double compared to Easter Europe. UK is the most expensive.
I don’t have any experience with US and Canada.