Any advice on getting a 640 back-winder jewellery watch?

Istod · Apr 19, 2021

Hi,

I'm new to the forum (and collecting watches) and would appreciate any advice from members on getting my wife a present for her 40th. She wants a 1960's cocktail watch but something like a 640 back-winder in gold with diamonds - style like a jewellery watch.

Any ideas on what to look out for and likely prices out there? Some of the watches I have seen have a pretty hefty price tag and don't want to make an expensive mistake.

Thanks

SkunkPrince · Apr 19, 2021

Does it have to be Omega? They didn't do much in the true "cocktail watch" area like Borel did.

Any watch with real diamonds on it will cost, depending on the carat weight. But you might look for a Ladymatic.

Istod · Apr 19, 2021

SkunkPrince
Does it have to be Omega? They didn't do much in the true "cocktail watch" area like Borel did.

Any watch with real diamonds on it will cost, depending on the carat weight. But you might look for a Ladymatic.

Thanks

SkunkPrince
Does it have to be Omega? They didn't do much in the true "cocktail watch" area like Borel did.

Any watch with real diamonds on it will cost, depending on the carat weight. But you might look for a Ladymatic.

Thanks for the pointer towards Borel and Ladymatic- will check them out.

On the Omega so far, I have been looking at bijoux montre bracelet type and at 18ct gold with around c 2-3ct of diamonds the price tags are c£5k

SkunkPrince · Apr 19, 2021

There's also an Omega Saph-something I'm brain-farting on that had a special faceted crystal that might work.

Istod · Apr 19, 2021

SkunkPrince
There's also an Omega Saph-something I'm brain-farting on that had a special faceted crystal that might work.

OK. The saphette?

SkunkPrince · Apr 19, 2021

I Istod
OK. The saphette?

I think so?

Darlinboy · Apr 20, 2021

There were many examples of the Saphette... here are a few examples in this old advert.. The faceted sapphire crystal was a feature of this line.

Istod · Apr 20, 2021

Thanks for the Sapphette advert - I may have to use same write up when I finally get the 'watch of her dreams'. Very thought provoking on lifestyle and feeling, compared to some of modern adverts that focus on the pure technical aspects.
Styles shown in the advert are varied, so will research further.
Thanks again.

DON · Apr 20, 2021

Does she want a piece of jewellery or a watch?

Most of these older diamond encase models have tiny dials. More of an accessory jewellery piece than watch

Today. Watches a little larger and more useful. Also quartz, so no need to wind.

If vintage and gold/diamonds or platinum

Omega and Longines are going to be the higher priced ones

Can look at American brands such as Bulova, Elgin and Hamilton.

Older watch means aged dial unless refinished. Also repairs if needed and parts availability

Diamonds - more crammed around the dial. Smaller it's going to be. Just because there's a lot. Doesn't mean quality. Majority are small .2 sized diamonds. More for the look than quality. Omega and Longines may be a touch better than others, but still considered to be diamond chips. Used to surround larger diamonds

Is this a surprise gift or is she involved with the purchase?

Do a google search and see what peaks her interest under various brands

DON

Istod · Apr 20, 2021

DON
Does she want a piece of jewellery or a watch?

Most of these older diamond encase models have tiny dials. More of an accessory jewellery piece than watch

Today. Watches a little larger and more useful. Also quartz, so no need to wind.

If vintage and gold/diamonds or platinum

Omega and Longines are going to be the higher priced ones

Can look at American brands such as Bulova, Elgin and Hamilton.

Older watch means aged dial unless refinished. Also repairs if needed and parts availability

Diamonds - more crammed around the dial. Smaller it's going to be. Just because there's a lot. Doesn't mean quality. Majority are small .2 sized diamonds. More for the look than quality. Omega and Longines may be a touch better than others, but still considered to be diamond chips. Used to surround larger diamonds

Is this a surprise gift or is she involved with the purchase?

Do a google search and see what peaks her interest under various brands

DON

Hi Don,

Thanks for the info. She is involved with the purchase and did pick out the small cocktail as the size she is after, but I do think that the jury is out now I've got some advice from you guys. Current watches are small in face size but are plain bangle, so she was looking for something with a bit more character.
She isn't used to a winder so may end up preferring the automatic. Will go through with her, as you suggested, and look at the Bulova, Elgin & Hamilton brands and see what takes her fancy.

Thanks again for the help and will let you know how things pan out.

Iain

DON · Apr 20, 2021

Just to understand.

Manual wind is what most of the small ladies watches are going to be. Have to be hand wound each morning or so.

Self winding / automatic - Small winding to get going and as long as it's worn. Small rotor inside winds the watch as long as arm in motion during the day.

Quartz - battery powered. No need to wind

As far as I know. Only the Omega brand had a ladies automatic in a small size. Ladymatic - with or without date

Not flashy - some simple and plain

omega-white-vintage-ladies-ladymatic-14k-solid-gold-diamond-17-jewel-watch-0-1-540-540.jpg

DON

alex_b · May 30, 2021

Do you happen to know the reference for that Ladymatic? My grandmothers (now with my sister) is identical and I’ve been trying to ID it.

Sherbie · May 30, 2021

Why not get her a Jeager Le Coutre cal 101 minature watch - fantastic, and almost like a line ( tennis) bracelet that she could wear every day

for example

https://www.forbes.com/sites/carolb...rlds-smallest-after-90-years/?sh=552e3d4d3b83

do a search - these sometimes show up in local jewellers or high end antique fairs

Canuck · May 30, 2021

Two more Sapphette Omegas, both 14-karat white gold, both with faceted synthetic sapphire crystals. One crystal tinted pastel blue, causing a blue “halo” around the dial.

JimInOz · May 31, 2021

SkunkPrince
Does it have to be Omega? They didn't do much in the true "cocktail watch" area like Borel did......................................

What!

Omega probably made more models/variations of Ladies fashion/cocktail watches than equivalent mens range in the period that they were fashionable.

Men's watches were made for men. "I just want a dive watch" or "I just want a chrono".

Women were a lot fussier and didn't want anything anybody else at the country club would have, as such there was a huge proliferation of ladies jewels watches from the late 1940s to the start of the quartz crisis.

I have to go, dinner is served.

SkunkPrince · May 31, 2021

By cocktail watch I mean the ones that had fancy special effects. Maybe we have different definitions?

JimInOz · Jun 1, 2021

SkunkPrince
By cocktail watch I mean the ones that had fancy special effects. Maybe we have different definitions?

The Omega bible, A Journey Through Time, has many pages dedicated to ladies jewellery/ cocktail watches.
Many more that the ladies "companion" pieces, eg ladies Constellations/Seamasters.

Just a sample.