Anatomy of a Buy...What Do Yours Look Like?

watchknut · Apr 11, 2017

@tyrantlizardrex got me thinking...some of us are lucky, some of us are good, and some of us have really deep pockets.

My question for the forum is what is the anatomy of most of your buys?

Mine is pretty simple, I use very simple ebay searches, and look through them at totally random times when I have a few moments free.

I mainly look at the pics, and try to snag BINs that are mismarked, have crappy pics, or both...it is usually about a 5-30 seconds from pics to hitting BIN...and then hours of trying to figure out what the hell I just bought, and a lot of anxiety.

In the decision mode, I run an equation that takes into account dial, patina, case, rarity, style, FMV...if it adds up, I go for it.

Occasionally I get a local sale, but those are rare these days.

Everyone has their approach, and not divulging any trade secrets, I think it would be cool to see everyone's process.

calalum · Apr 11, 2017

Knowledge, knowledge, knowledge. Make a few friends. Be ready to pounce.

mozambique · Apr 11, 2017

In order of priority:
#1 Dial lume condition
#2 Dial lume condition
#3 Dial lume condition

Off-colour lume okay, if priced accordingly and all watch and bracelet are original and correct.
Beyond that, do not mind paying slightly over market prices for watches that merit it. Going (generally) with a buy and hold policy means that it makes $ sense overall.

Gordon Heavyfoot · Apr 11, 2017

I try to use general search terms unless I'm looking for something very specific. I always sort by "newly listed" in hopes that not a lot of folks have viewed it yet. I favor search terms like "old watch" because many times this is what people who know nothing about watches and couldn't care less about them would put in their title. Of course ignorance many times translates into a good deal because they don't know what they have. You have to root through a lot more junk but there is the added benefit that you may find a gem in another brand other than Omega. Other times I'll use "antique watch" if I'm looking for something from the 30's or 40's. While technically these don't qualify as antique yet, many people use the term for anything that looks old. I generally avoid terms like "vintage", "chronograph", "chronometer", etc. because these are terms that someone who is familiar with watches would use. If I know I'll be having a drink or two (or three) I'll avoid searching altogether. More than once I've received a mysterious invoice the next day for a watch I'm damned if I can remember.

watchknut · Apr 11, 2017

@Gordon Heavyfoot ahh...drunk BINing...made some not so wise purchases that way!

mr_yossarian · Apr 11, 2017

watchknut
@tyrantlizardrex got me thinking...some of us are lucky, some of us are good, and some of us have really deep pockets.

My question for the forum is what is the anatomy of most of your buys?

Mine is pretty simple, I use very simple ebay searches, and look through them at totally random times when I have a few moments free.

I mainly look at the pics, and try to snag BINs that are mismarked, have crappy pics, or both...it is usually about a 5-30 seconds from pics to hitting BIN...and then hours of trying to figure out what the hell I just bought, and a lot of anxiety.

In the decision mode, I run an equation that takes into account dial, patina, case, rarity, style, FMV...if it adds up, I go for it.

Occasionally I get a local sale, but those are rare these days.

Everyone has their approach, and not divulging any trade secrets, I think it would be cool to see everyone's process.

..I see me in you... except for the BIN part, there simply is almost nothing when I search..maybe because of you 😀
And sometimes I don't hesitate when it's an exceptional piece and just max out my account.

kingsrider · Apr 11, 2017

watchknut
@tyrantlizardrex got me thinking...some of us are lucky, some of us are good, and some of us have really deep pockets.

My question for the forum is what is the anatomy of most of your buys?

Mine is pretty simple, I use very simple ebay searches, and look through them at totally random times when I have a few moments free.

I mainly look at the pics, and try to snag BINs that are mismarked, have crappy pics, or both...it is usually about a 5-30 seconds from pics to hitting BIN...and then hours of trying to figure out what the hell I just bought, and a lot of anxiety.

In the decision mode, I run an equation that takes into account dial, patina, case, rarity, style, FMV...if it adds up, I go for it.

Occasionally I get a local sale, but those are rare these days.

Everyone has their approach, and not divulging any trade secrets, I think it would be cool to see everyone's process.

I guess patience is the most important buying tool I employ. As you indicated, BIN or Best Offer is more often than not, the way I have purchased watches. But what I do is wait for for Ebay to incentivize buyers with Ebay Buck rebates. I make an offer and if a deal is made I am getting 8-10% back.
Here are two good examples. Both bought

Make an offer combined with Ebay bucks rebate.

Just Livin · Apr 11, 2017

Obituaries. Cross referenced with my private data base of CK2915 owners.

oddboy · Apr 11, 2017

My first question is: is it a speedmaster?

My second question is: why did I just buy another one?!

😁

Foo2rama · Apr 11, 2017

Both my eBay purchases where poorly listed which kept the vultures away. One had bad pictures but enough detail to show the bezel and dial where in great condition.

The other was mis marked as a remania movement Sinn 903 and the first eBay sale from a known large Japanese watch house. A little research to clear the seller and calling them via their website to confirm and both watches procured for 50-75% of market value.

tyrantlizardrex · Apr 11, 2017

Looking through the watches I have bought on eBay:

188.0002 - Speedsonic - Auction - I was the highest bidder, it was non running, there were no movement shots, total punt, I did ok.

145.026 - flightmaster - BIN - Seller is a Rolex dealer, had taken it as a trade in, and had zero interest in getting anything more than what it owed back out... I got lucky.

ST166.088 - Seamaster 120 blue sweep hand - 2 years of it being on and off eBay... eventually a cash deal when the seller got desperate.

ST168.0034 - Seamaster 751 Jumbo - Auction - ended NYD at 8am... I was sober, others were not.

ST145.024 - Seamaster "Jedi" - I talked to the seller, and did a deal, whilst others lurked and didn't.

I'm not sure I have a technique, but it has never been to just hit BIN. I'm far too careful with the little money that I have. 😉

Dgercp · Apr 11, 2017

Then there are the chickens. Ebay scares me, especially with bad pics and poor descriptions. Willing to lose out on the occasional steal and
not worry about buying a train wreak. Dealers now too expensive and try to avoid them also. My favorite playing field is to seek out what
I want from collectors such as on OF, IG and other sites. I may pay a bit more but for me worth the piece of mind.

lillatroll · Apr 11, 2017

I see a watch I like, then I have a look at prices and then try to find the best example I can for a reasonable price. In general most of my collection is of 70s models that don't really appeal to everyone.
I am very patient but will buy something I like it. Some models I have looked for more than a year before buying one I am happy with. I bought a NOS cone f3oo after trying to find a good one for well over a year and for a lot less than what many jokers were asking for on eBay.
If I collected vintage speedies then I think I would take a different approach.

Larry S · Apr 11, 2017

One of my OF buddies trolls a shiny object past me and I chase it. ::facepalm1::

bazamu · Apr 11, 2017

You and I have essentially identical approaches, though I supplement it with random WatchRecon runs.

Oh, and lots of DIBS in hopes that someone remembers them (shoutout to @Faz!)

Willem023 · Apr 11, 2017

Sniff around auction houses, looking for bad or too short descriptions. Blurry pictures and dirty cases.
Try to be the smarter one (most of the time someone beats me to it).
If I really like it, I am willing to pay the price.

On the condition of condition, condition, condition (and sometimes just plain greed).

And read, dig, sniff some more on the i-net, look into my (very tiny) library for references and coward-out if it 'doesn't 'feel' good'... 😵‍💫

(my dear, this sounds like the script for a badly written C-movie, yuck ::facepalm1::

) Or better: who still remembers Columbo?

😁😁😁

W

WatchVaultNYC · Apr 11, 2017

Ebay is close to the perfect market in terms of getting a fair price. Well described items will get market price. Poorly described items or dodgy sellers will get a "risk discount". Well respected sellers get a "peace-of-mind premium" . Low priced BINs are caught by the earliest bird. Deals are had by the quickest draws, those that take the largest risks, or those that can add value (i.e. repairing a damaged watch)

Instead of finding discrepancies in this sort of market, I instead look at other markets where buyer pools are limited or there are barriers to entry. The Goodwill and flea market buyers on the forum are an example and probably a good bet for individual buyers looking for onesie-twosie watches.

Just Livin · Apr 11, 2017

In all seriousness I went fishing for my buy. Casting the net so to speak.

I wanted an all original Yema Yachtingraf Jumbo as pictured. Quite rare and hardly ever comes up for sale.

So after months of nothing. I mean searching all the usual forums, I decided to post adds in obscure French Forums. (Thanks to Google translate here). Figuring that after all, Yema being a French brand would most likely have sold more in France.

A couple of weeks later I struck gold and was offered a watch from a wonderful retired French owner. All original and pretty much a sock draw example. Price was wonderful.
The rest was a simple case of Eurostar to Paris and exchange. He didn't speak English, I didn't speak French. Google translate and concierge to the rescue.

Next couple of buys were as a result of contacts through GTG (thanks @tyrantlizardrex) and another one on the hit list. A Yema 'Mario Andretti' Rallye. Then a lucky break with IG on a Lip that was connected to a dealer.. So without thinking about it too much, the last 3 purchases were all French. Non Ebay. Non Auction. Just contacts really.

My only frustration in looking back is, I have probably spent longer on Ebay, Chronocentric, Salesroom, and WUS, looking for watches, than I did in a fraction of time with the purchases below. In short I guess effecting the status quo as opposed to waiting.

Not to say I won't stop looking btw. The fun is in the hunt and still long for that CK2915 BIN $1000 offer 🤨
Yours truly. A deluded clown!

eugeneandresson · Apr 11, 2017

Great thread @watchknut. Really bad for the 'ok that's enough now no more till next year' resolution. "Aaaaaw, but I'm only looking" he says to himself, then sees something...nervous twitch... *zap*, bought. "Fcuk, how'm I gonna tell my partner about this?". "Hmm...don't, they all look the same to her. Especially if you put it on a similar strap as the last one. She will never know". "But what about the checkered flag/green-racing-stripes/glaring-obvious-difference? Surely that won't go unnoticed?"."Fcuk". And so the devil and god keep bickering inside...

My anatomy of late has been a very quick draw (well, there hasn't been luxury time to ponder, so). Have bought on auction in the past...I was surprised at what some people don't bid on -> sweep in at the last minute and get a really good deal (got 2 pieces at 50% retail price this way). Have also had to fight to win an auction, but lucked out too (I think). Retrospectively have missed a few good deals when I see what they went for. Never bought on the bay. Not allowed any more this year ... !!!

blacktiger · Apr 11, 2017

tyrantlizardrex
Looking through the watches I have bought on eBay:

188.0002 - Speedsonic - Auction - I was the highest bidder, it was non running, there were no movement shots, total punt, I did ok.

145.026 - flightmaster - BIN - Seller is a Rolex dealer, had taken it as a trade in, and had zero interest in getting anything more than what it owed back out... I got lucky.

ST166.088 - Seamaster 120 blue sweep hand - 2 years of it being on and off eBay... eventually a cash deal when the seller got desperate.

ST168.0034 - Seamaster 751 Jumbo - Auction - ended NYD at 8am... I was sober, others were not.

ST145.024 - Seamaster "Jedi" - I talked to the seller, and did a deal, whilst others lurked and didn't.

I'm not sure I have a technique, but it has never been to just hit BIN. I'm far too careful with the little money that I have. 😉

Great, that's what I'm hoping to do!

Anatomy of a Buy...What Do Yours Look Like?

watchknut

calalum

mozambique

Gordon Heavyfoot

watchknut

mr_yossarian

kingsrider

Just Livin

oddboy

Foo2rama

tyrantlizardrex

Dgercp

lillatroll

Larry S

bazamu

Willem023

WatchVaultNYC

Just Livin

eugeneandresson

blacktiger

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