An "Ovettone" ref 6298 from 1954

Dan S

This is one that you don't see every day. Quite a long story, but I first saw it advertised on Craigslist in late 2019, but the seller and I couldn't agree on a price. In 2022, he listed it again and we made a deal. 😁 Interestingly, the seller said that the reference and serial numbers were obscured, but fortunately I was able to read them under magnification. It's a ref 6298 with serial 172016 (just after the serial number reset), and the case-back engraving reads I 54.

A few interesting things about the watch. The case is 36mm as opposed to the typical 34mm for Oyster Perpetual models. For this reason, it is part of a series of references nicknamed "Ovettone" (big egg) because the back has sort of a semi-bubbleback shape to accommodate the movement. Notably, the dial has an uncommon 50m=165ft depth rating, and it represents a period during which Rolex was a transitioning from dress oysters to tool/sport watches, so this watch has some features of both. The reference is also sometimes called a pre-Explorer, since the first Explorers shared this reference number and were supposedly carried on Everest. Also interesting is the crossed-out reference with a second reference in the case-back. Rolex was frugal at the time, and found ways to use all of their parts.

The black gilt dial is very appealing to me and reasonably well-preserved, with mostly intact lume, although it has lost much of its glossy finish and the lacquer is showing its age. The crown is not original, and I will be keeping my eyes open for a "Brevet +" crown at a reasonable price. The handset appears to be original and the case doesn't show major signs of polishing (e.g. no cratering around the lug holes) although there is some pitting between the lugs. The cal A296 movement is running well, but I believe that the auto-winding may need some work. Fortunately, my watchmaker has quite a few parts for this caliber.

Fun find for me. I really like the gilt dial, the size, and the fact that it is a no-date reference. I think it will look good on a black strap, or perhaps a rivet bracelet, the case is 20mm between the lugs.