Hello all, After a little more than a week on the wrist, it was time to write a little review of this fantastic chronograph. I hope you enjoy the following write up of the beautifully executed re-edition Airain Type 20 flyback chronograph, a brand resurrected by Tom van Vijlick and his team in the Netherlands. There are several excellent reviews of the prototype on the internet, namely this one https://www.fratellowatches.com/airain-type-20-re-edition-brown-limited-edition/#gref I first read about this re-edition right here on the OF. My interest was immediately piqued as I once owned a few of the original type 20 issued chronos in the past and was always intrigued by their rich history in the French military. It also fit the scope of my watch collecting interests. I have since done away with vintage watches and turned my sights onto modern re-editions of classic watches. When I visited the Airain website, I was immediately seduced by their approach and the affordable price for a chronograph of this caliber. A faithful reproduction in a slightly more modern sized watch equipped with a modern flyback chronograph movement. I thought that if the original Airain company had survived, they would have come up with this watch. I locked my choice on one of the 134 Brown dial Limited edition examples. It took quite a bit of time from order date to wrist but it was well worth it. I ordered the watch in January 2021. The watch finally arrived August 1, 2022. I must say that Tom kept us updated every step of they way. I expected some delays for the obvious reason of a raging pandemic and resulting supply chain issues. I received the watch, carefully packaged. I was pleasantly surprised at the beautiful, tastefully done box. Not too big and beautifully crafted in a black grand piano finish. The watch I was immediately struck by the faithful, almost identical execution from the original Airain Type 20. It didn’t look that much larger than the original 38 mm watch. The difference was noticeable once I strapped it on. Perfect size at 39.5mm! I can say that this is probably the most comfortable watch I’ve ever owned. Not bulky, somewhat light and that high quality suede strap! So comfortable. The case The case is brilliantly finished. Except for the brushed case back, all surfaces are polished to a high standard IMO. The subtle bevels on the drilled lugs are beautiful. The countdown bezel fits snuggly and doesn’t suffer for the looseness encountered in some of the prototypes. It’s easy to rotate but tight enough so that it won’t move inadvertently. A slight negative note for the bezel engravings which I find too shallow and hard to see. I’ve always loved chronographs with larger sized winding crowns at this one doesn’t disappoint. The unsigned crown is perfectly executed. Winding the watch is a pleasure, very smooth. Pushers are perfectly placed and operate crisply and decisively. The nicely done brushed case back with polished contour with it’s engravings is simple yet tells us the model, reference number, limited edition number and the Airain brand. Edit: Forgot to mention the very attractive domed acrylic crystal that really is the masterful finishing touch to the Airain Type 20 re-creation. The movement I’m not familiar with Swiss made La Joux-Perret calibres. This one, the AM1 is probably based on the LPJ7773 but without the automatic winding mechanism (per Fratello). It’s a column wheel, manual wind movement with flyback complication. It winds oh so smoothly and the flyback complication is a joy to operate. I find this complication to be the ultimate one for cooks! Time keeping on my watch is within the specifications of “within 8 seconds per day” stated by the manufacturer. Mine is on the annoying slow side but within their parameters. However there is one quirk. This movement comes from an automatic ébauche converted to a manual wound movement. You can wind it all you want without reaching the full wound stop. This wasn’t mentioned in the description. The only thing that tells you it’s fully wound is the faint ‘click’ that signals the spring is fully loaded, like on an automatic. Flaw? Intentional? Maybe Tom can chime in on this issue. The dial and hands My favourite part. The exquisite dark chocolate brown dial is simply delicious. The two sub dials (continuous seconds at 9 and 30 minute counter at 3 have a slightly different finish that emit a bronze colour sheen when exposed to direct light. The hand painted luminova markers are evocative of the 50s and 60s from when the originals were produced. Not much sign of the faux patina described in some of the reviews but the faint presence of a beige tint reminiscent of those watches coming off the assembly line in years gone by. The dial’s legibility is exemplary and the luminova shines bright at night. My chronos Conclusion I am very pleased with my acquisition. A faithful modern recreation of an iconic military issued flyback chronograph which will give me, I hope, many years of pleasure. I for one think it’s hard to beat at this price point and I highly recommended the Airain Type 20. Is it perfect? Almost! But then again, aren’t all the watches we love “almost perfect”? Thanks for sticking around. Faz TECHNICAL DATA Model: Type 20 Brown Limited Edition Reference: 421.458 Case Material: Stainless steel Diameter: 39.5mm Height: 10.85mm Crystal: 3.92mm domed hesalite with anti-scratch treatment Lug-to-lug: 47.7mm Caseback: Screwed in Bezel: Bidirectional Water resistance: 50m (5ATM) Movement Caliber: Manual-wind column wheel chronograph caliber AM1 with flyback complication Power reserve: 60 hours Chronograph: 30 minutes Jewels: 24 jewels Shock protection: Incabloc Strap Strap: Genuine Suede Leather Strap in Brown Lug Width: 20mm
Thanks for the writeup! Sounds like a really interesting piece that I may have to look on the secondary for at some point. Interesting to hear about the winding mechanism, I'd imagine it also doesn't have as much tension once fully wound and the clutch slips? I suppose one upside of that though is that it can't be overwound like a regular manual watch.
I happened to be searching ebay yesterday for type 20 watches just to see what their was and happened to see that Airain also has a mecha-quartz type 20 for around $150 or so. As these aren't on the Airain website I am wondering if this was something that was before the current ownership of the name. They are also chonky bois at 41.5mm and 15mm thick. They look like a hockeypuck: